Category: Cat Care

Cat under an umbrella in the rain
Cat Care

Disaster Preparedness for Cats: How to Keep Your Pet Safe in an Emergency

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Meredith Hemphill

mehshadoweye

Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

It’s the middle of hurricane season, and we just had a line of severe thunderstorms and tornados go through last Monday. Yesterday I saw a picture of someone looking for a lost cat in the ashes of their house on Maui. An emergency can happen any time, so we all need to think about disaster preparedness for our cats. What is the plan in case of a fire, flood, earthquake, or any other worst-case scenario? I hope you and your pets never have to face anything like that, but sometimes it happens. All we can do is be prepared.

“Hope you got your things together…looks like we’re in for nasty weather.”

Be Ready Before Something Happens

If there’s an emergency, you may need to move your cat to a safe room or even evacuate your home. At the very least, you’ll need to know where your pets are. So, step #1: make sure you have a carrier for every animal [2, 3, 8, 9]. A cat (or dog) carrier needs to be big enough for them to comfortably stand, lie down, and turn around in [1, 9]. You’ll also want to get your cat comfortable with being in the carrier [9, 10]. Similar to crate training dogs, you want your cat to feel like the carrier is a safe den and not just the place you shove them when scary things happen.

There’s not a one-size-fits-all method here, but things you can try include: putting a cozy blanket in the carrier, giving treats or feeding your cat inside, incorporating the carrier in playtime, and draping a towel over the carrier to make it cozier. Make sure you leave the carriers somewhere your cats can hang out in them regularly [9]. Label every carrier with your pet’s name, your name, and your contact information [3, 6, 5].

Gray kitten hiding under sofa
Block the unders to avoid this during a crisis – Image by Alexander Alehin from Pixabay

Even if your cat is used to their carrier, they might still be scared during a real emergency, so expect to have to catch your cat. That being said, it helps to pre-emptively “block the unders,” in the words of cat behaviorist Jackson Galaxy. This means under the bed, under the dresser, under the sofa–all those hidey-holes cats can get into that we can’t get them out of easily, if at all. Find a way to block those off so that if you need to quickly grab your cat and go, you don’t have to try to crawl under the furniture looking for a terrified house panther. [9]

Despite our best efforts, our pets still get lost sometimes, especially during the chaos of a disaster. So, it’s important that your pet has identification, too. The best way to make sure that a lost cat is returned to you is to have them microchipped [6, 9]. Get your cats microchipped as soon as possible–most vets will do it during their spay/neuter surgery–and keep your contact information up-to-date with the microchip service [1-3, 6, 8-10]. If your cat will wear a collar, make sure they’re wearing correct tags including your contact info and any serious medical needs [1-3, 6]. Only use breakaway collars with cats.

Make sure you have a pet rescue alert sticker posted on a front window or somewhere near the door of your home [3, 4, 9]. These tell first responders that there animals in the house, what kind, and how many, so that they know to look for them [3, 4, 9]. You can order a sticker for free from the ASPCA. If you evacuate and have time on the way out, write EVACUATED over the sticker in permanent marker so no one wastes valuable time looking for animals that have been safely removed already [3, 4].

Pack Your Cat’s Disaster Preparedness Kit

Having an emergency kit packed and ready to grab and go will save you a great deal of time and stress if disaster strikes. You’ve probably heard recommendations for packing an emergency bag for yourself, but you should have one for your cats, too [1-10]. If you have a car or other reliable transport, pack a tough, waterproof box (like a storage bin with handles) that you can load up and take with you. If not, use something like a duffel bag or backpack that you can carry. Have one of those on hand even if you plan to drive, just in case that ceases to be possible.

Here’s a list of, ideally, everything to put in your pet emergency kit:

  • Important documents: identification papers like adoption records and microchip number; medical records; contact information for you, other potential caretakers, and your veterinarian; recent photo(s), preferably with both you and your pet
  • Food and bottled water for at least three days
  • Food and water bowls (collapsible ones save space), manual can opener if needed
  • 2 weeks-1 month supply of any medications
  • 1 month of parasite preventative
  • Cat litter and disposable litter trays (aluminum roasting pans and shallow cardboard boxes work)
  • Trash bags
  • Disinfectant, dish soap, paper towels
  • Pet first aid kit
  • Familiar blanket or bed
  • Familiar toy(s)
  • Grooming supplies, if your cat needs them
  • Harness and leash, if you walk your cat

Remember to periodically replace items in your emergency kit that expire, like food and medications. Below are downloads for pet emergency kit checklists from the Red Cross, American Veterinary Medical Association, and ASPCA, if you’re a checklist person like me. The ASPCA one is specifically for cats.

Red Cross Pet Safety Kit Checklist Download
AVMA Pet Evacuation Kit Checklist Download
ASPCA Disaster Planning for Cats Download

Know Where You Can Go with Pets

Cat under umbrella in the rain
Image by준모 강 from Pixabay

Having a well-considered plan is key to disaster preparedness, especially with cats. Figure out now what room in your home you will hole up in if you are sheltering in place [2, 6]. Make sure you could close off all the exits and keep your cat in that space with you if necessary [2]. In case you need to send pets away for a while, find out which family, friends, and neighbors are able and willing to care for them [2, 3, 6, 10]. Also look for veterinary clinics, boarding facilities, and animal shelters that will house pets during emergencies [1-3, 6]. You can try asking your veterinarian for suggestions [3].

If you have to evacuate, always take your pets with you [2, 3]. If it isn’t safe for you, it isn’t safe for them [3]. That being said, a lot of places won’t allow you to stay with your pets, including a lot of Red Cross rescue shelters [3, 6, 8]. Keep a list of nearby hotels, motels, and shelters that allow cats [1-3, 6, 10]. If you think an evacuation might be coming, go ahead and make a reservation [1].

Resources for cat-friendly hotels:

Be Aware of Unusual Hazards

During and after a disaster, the environment is likely to be very different than your cat is used to. Familiar smells and landmarks may be gone [2, 6]. There can be all kinds of debris about as well as spilled chemicals and contaminated water [2, 6]. Wildlife can show up in strange places [6]. If your cat normally goes outside, don’t let them out there until you are sure it’s safe [2, 6]. Make sure you check your own space for unexpected hazards, too [2, 6]. Your cat may behave differently from all the stress [2, 6]. They may become more withdrawn or aggressive [2, 6]. Just be gracious with them. Cats love routine, so it helps a lot to get them back to their daily rhythms as soon as possible [9].

Sources

  1. Adams, B. W. (n.d.). Pet disaster preparedness. The Humane Society of the United States. https://www.humanesociety.org/resources/pet-disaster-preparedness
  2. American Humane. (n.d.). Pet disaster preparedness. https://www.americanhumane.org/fact-sheet/pet-disaster-preparedness/
  3. American Red Cross. (n.d.). Pet disaster preparedness. https://www.redcross.org/get-help/how-to-prepare-for-emergencies/pet-disaster-preparedness.html
  4. American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. (n.d.). Disaster preparedness. https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/general-pet-care/disaster-preparedness
  5. American Veterinary Medical Association. (n.d.). Pets and disasters. https://www.avma.org/resources-tools/pet-owners/emergency-care/pets-and-disasters
  6. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. (2022, September 14). Pet safety in emergencies. https://www.cdc.gov/healthypets/keeping-pets-and-people-healthy/emergencies.html
  7. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. (2023, January 31). Pet disaster preparedness kit. https://www.cdc.gov/healthypets/keeping-pets-and-people-healthy/emergencies/pet-disaster-prep-kit.html
  8. Department of Homeland Security. (2023, June 16). Prepare your pets for disasters. Ready. https://www.ready.gov/pets
  9. Galaxy, J. (2022, May 28). The cat emergency prep checklist. Jackson Galaxy. https://www.jacksongalaxy.com/blogs/news/the-cat-emergency-prep-checklist
  10. International Fund for Animal Welfare. (n.d.). Pet emergency kit plan: Be #disasterready. https://www.ifaw.org/campaigns/pet-emergency-preparedness-kit-plan

Published August 13th, 2023

Cat Care

How to Help a Cat Who Is Scared of Fireworks

mehshadoweye

Meredith Hemphill

mehshadoweye

Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Pink fireworks
Image by PublicDomainPictures from Pixabay

The new year is just around the corner and the pyrotechnic celebrations that come with it. Dogs are most infamous for their firework freakouts, but lots of animals may be afraid of the loud noises and fiery flashes in the sky–horses, livestock, wildlife, and, of course, cats. If you’re reading this article, you already know that many cats are scared of fireworks and all the other explosive expressions of joy that people set off at certain times of year. Or for no apparent reason at all. You can’t do much about the loud people, but there are steps you can take to calm your cat.

Desensitization

Fireworks are loud. Really loud. Especially for our cats, whose hearing is much more sensitive than ours. Fireworks also flash like lightning, rain fire from the sky, and leave a burnt, smoky aroma hanging in the air. The sound, sight, and smell can all be frightening to animals [4, 6]. The same goes for smaller explosives like firecrackers and sparklers. When you know a pyrotechnic holiday is coming up, you can prepare your cat by desensitizing them to the sounds so that the real thing won’t be such an overwhelming experience [3, 5, 6, 8]. You can also adapt this technique for cats who are afraid of thunderstorms.

While your cat is nice and relaxed, play audio of fireworks at a low volume nearby. If your cat walks away or acts distressed, turn it off and try again another time. If your cat remains calm, give them a treat. The next day, do it again with the volume a little bit louder. If the volume ever starts to stress your cat out, you’ll need to go down to a lower volume and work back up. Keep going until the volume is as high as you feel comfortable taking it. Only play the firework audio for a few minutes at a time, at most ten, and keep in mind that it is much louder for your cat than it is for you! [3, 5, 6, 8]

Make a Safe Space

Desensitization exercises don’t fully simulate the experience of explosions in the sky all over the neighborhood, so expect your cat to still be scared of fireworks, just not as frantically. By providing a place for your cat to hide, they can feel safe riding out the noisy night [1, 4-7]. If your cat already has a favorite hiding spot, this could be as simple as stocking that nook with food, water, a litter box, and a comfy blanket [6]. If your cat doesn’t have a favorite place to hide or reacts to fireworks by running around in a panic, you have more work to do. Basically, you need to make the best hiding box ever.

You could use a cardboard box, a crate, anything like that. Put it in a part of the home that your cat already likes to spend a lot of time in. Cover it with a towel or blanket to muffle sound and block out the flashes of light. Put food, water, and litter box either inside or very nearby. Make it nice and cozy with a blanket or cat bed to snuggle down into. Toss a favorite toy or two inside. They’re comfortingly familiar even if kitty doesn’t feel like playing. [1, 4, 5, 7]

You may need to entice your cat to check out the new hiding box. Cats are cautious about new things in their environment. Giving kitty treats and even feeding them inside are good ways to tell your cat that this place means good things.

Line Up Your Tools

Cartoon dog scared of fireworks
Some pets experience more anxiety during fireworks than others

Some cats are more scared of fireworks than others, and they may need a little extra help. If you think your cat’s firework anxiety might need medication management, talk to your veterinarian. They may recommend an over-the-counter supplement for cases that aren’t quite so drastic. Zylkene is a common choice for a cat who is scared of fireworks [4, 5]. Calming pheromone sprays like Feliway can also be helpful [4, 5, 7], as can CBD products like anti-anxiety treats. If your cat has severe firework anxiety, however, your veterinarian may recommend a prescription anxiety medication [1, 5, 6, 8].

On the Night of Bombardment

There are several things you can do to make things easier on your pet when you know the pyrotechnics are coming. The most important thing is to keep your cat indoors, even if they normally stay outside [1, 4, 5, 7, 8]! Keep your windows, doors, and cat flaps closed, too [4, 5, 8]. Panicked cats often try to escape whatever is scaring them, and they can end up running far from home [1, 4, 8]. Make sure your cat is microchipped in case the worst happens and they do get out [1, 7, 8].

Close your blinds/curtains to block out the flashes [4, 8]. To muffle the noise, play music, turn on the TV, or put on white noise [1, 4, 8]. You could try music for cats to see if your kitty finds that soothing [4]. Do your best to behave normally yourself to give the impression that nothing is amiss [4, 6]. If your cat hides, drop by occasionally to offer calming words, pets if they want them, but don’t try to make your cat leave their hiding spot [4-7]. If your cat seems scared of the fireworks but stays out in the open, you can try playing with them to distract them [4-6].

Cats may engage in destructive behaviors when they’re scared [6, 8]. Never punish or yell at your cat for something they do while frightened [1, 8]. They won’t understand and will only feel more unsafe. You want to radiate calmness during this stressful event, even if your cat does something frustrating.

Boom = Treat

If your cat is food-motivated, this game may work well to distract them and teach them to associate fireworks with something positive. It’s exactly what it sounds like. Keep plenty of kitty’s favorite treats nearby or on your person during the fireworks. Every time there’s an explosion, give your cat a treat and tell them how very brave they are. It’s not unusual for cats to refuse food when stressed, so use your best judgement on whether this technique makes sense for your cat. [2, 3]

Have a multi-pet household? Below are the RSPCA’s top tips for helping all pets cope with fireworks.

The RSPCA’s top firework tips for cats, dogs, and small animals. Tip #4 can work for cats, too!

Works Cited

  1. Galaxy, J. [Jackson Galaxy]. (2020, June 24). Keep your animal family safe and sane during fireworks and other holiday celebrations [Video]. YouTube. https://www.jacksongalaxy.com/blog/keep-cats-dogs-safe-calm-sane-during-fireworks-and-holiday-celebrations/
  2. Horberg, M. (2022, June 30). Paws & play newsletter [Email]. Preventive Vet.
  3. Horberg, M. (2022, December 14). Paws & play newsletter [Email]. Preventive Vet.
  4. Johnson-Bennett, P. (n.d.). Tips for calming your cat during fireworks. Cat Behavior Associates. https://catbehaviorassociates.com/tips-for-calming-your-cat-during-fireworks/
  5. Madson, C. (2022, November 11). Getting your dog ready for the 4th of July. Preventive Vet. https://www.preventivevet.com/dogs/get-your-dog-ready-for-4th-of-july
  6. Medina, G. (2022, June 29). Expert tips to keep your pets calm during July 4th fireworks. Consumer Reports. https://www.consumerreports.org/pets/expert-tips-to-keep-your-pets-calm-during-july-4th-fireworks-a7799972004/
  7. RSPCA. (n.d.). Pets and fireworks. https://www.rspca.org.uk/adviceandwelfare/pets/general/fireworks
  8. Vets Now. (2020, October 21). How do fireworks affect cats and how do I help my scared cat? https://www.vets-now.com/pet-care-advice/how-do-fireworks-affect-cats/

Published December 19th, 2022

Cat Care

Tick Prevention for Cats

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Meredith Hemphill

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Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Summer in the Southeastern United States is Tick Season. Well, actually it’s just Bug Season, but one of the bugs you have to worry about is ticks. You don’t just have to worry about ticks crawling on you, but on your pets, too. Now that it’s hot and humid and creepy crawlies are everywhere, it’s high time we talked about tick prevention for cats and what to do if you find one of the little monsters attached to your furry friend.

The Life History of Ticks

Tick life cycle
Image from Beattie Pet Hospital

Ticks are little, creepy arachnids, relatives of spiders and scorpions. They need to feed on blood to proceed through each stage of their life cycle [2]. A female tick lays 3000-6000 eggs on the ground [6]. The eggs hatch into tiny larvae that feed and molt into nymphs [2, 6]. The nymphs do the same to develop into adults [2, 6]. Adult ticks feed and mate on a host animal [6].

Ticks cannot fly or jump–they must crawl or drop onto a passing animal [4, 6]. They sit on tall blades of grass or other vegetation and wait for a passing host to brush by [1, 2, 4, 6, 8]. They prefer to bite the head, neck, ears, and feet [1, 4, 8]. Once a tick bites, they bury their mouthparts in the skin [1, 8].

There are at least 15 species of ticks in North America and more than 800 in the world [2, 6]. The species likely to feed on cats in the United States are the deer or black-legged tick and American dog tick [6]. Ticks are most abundant during the late spring and summer.

Why Do Cats Need Tick Prevention?

Ticks carry a lot of diseases. Cats don’t get tick-borne illnesses very often, but they sometimes become very sick when they do [2, 4, 6, 8]. Below are tick-borne diseases of concern for cats.

  • Lyme Disease (USA, Canada, Europe, North Asia, East Asia)
  • Cytauxzoonosis (USA, Brazil, Europe)
  • Tick Paralysis (Australia)
  • Hemobartonellosis/Feline Hemotrophic Mycoplasmosis (Worldwide)
  • Tularemia (USA, Canada, Europe, North Asia)
  • Babeseosis (USA, Europe, South Africa, East Asia, Southeast Asia)
  • Ehrlichiosis (USA, Europe, South America, Africa, East Asia)

The more ticks that bite a cat, and the longer they remain attached for, the more likely it is that the ticks will infect the cat with a disease-causing pathogen [4, 7]. Tick bites may also become infected like any wound, and if a cat has a lot of ticks attached they could become anemic [1, 3].

Image from Texas A&M Agrilife Extension

What Kinds of Tick Prevention are Available for Cats?

These days, there are a lot of different types of tick prevention for cats. Some flea prevention products work for ticks, too. Others are tick-specific. Some are only effective against certain species of ticks [8]. Before using any tick prevention method, consult your veterinarian. They should know which ticks are present in your area and which preventatives will work best for your cat. For reference, these are the options available.

An important thing to remember: NEVER use an antiparasitic product meant for dogs on your cat. Make absolutely certain that the product you are using is labeled for use with cats, and that you use a dose that corresponds to your cat’s age and weight. Some of the flea and tick products made for dogs are very toxic to cats [4, 6, 7].

Spot-On Medications

Spot-on treatments are a type of topical medication that you squeeze out of a little tube onto the back of your cat’s neck [6]. They are a very popular form of tick prevention for cats–and dogs, too [2, 4-8]. Spot-on medications are highly effective and must be applied monthly [5].

Oral Medications

These monthly antiparasitic tablets are much more available for dogs than they are for cats, but you can sometimes find them [5, 7]. I suspect this is because many cats are so unwilling to take pills. Oral tick preventatives do have advantages if your cat will consume them. There is no need to worry about your cat rubbing the medication off onto you or your furniture [5]. Plus, with a medication that is meant to be eaten, there’s no concern about your cat grooming a chemical that isn’t safe for consumption off their fur. They aren’t supposed to be able to do that if you squirt a spot-on treatment in that magic place they can’t reach, but Joon finds a way.

Shampoos and Dips

Photo by Karin Chantanaprayura on Pexels

Famously, cats do not like baths. But, there are reasons these products could make sense for you. For example, your cat has a serious infestation, or your cat needs to take regular baths anyway. There are shampoos available that kill ticks on contact [5]. These shampoos are pretty inexpensive, but for ongoing protection your cat will need a medicated bath about every two weeks during peak tick season [5]. Just be careful not to get any in kitty’s eyes!

Dips are a bit different. The tick dip comes as a concentrated chemical that has to be diluted in water [5]. You then sponge it onto the cat’s fur or pour it over their back without rinsing [5]. These chemicals are strong, so they are not appropriate for all cats and cannot be used for kittens less than four months old [5].

Powders and Sprays

These topical products can sometimes be used in the cat’s environment and on their bedding as well as on your cat [3, 5]. Be sure to check the directions. Powders are rubbed into a cat’s fur and skin [5]. They can be irritating, so avoid kitty’s face and eyes [5]. Antiparasitic powders are not effective for very long and need to be applied once a week during peak tick season [5]. Sprays are also a topical treatment that must be kept away from a cat’s eyes [3, 5]. They kill ticks quickly but are short-acting [5, 6]. Some sprays, while considered pet-safe, are only meant for use around the house and not directly on animals. Again, always read the instructions.

Tick Collars

Medicated collars can help prevent ticks from attaching to your cat [2-7]. However, they work the best around the head and neck and are less effective elsewhere on the body [5]. That is one of the places where ticks tend to congregate, but they can and will attach anywhere. If ticks are only a minor problem in your area, however, this might be a reasonable solution.

Tick collars must have skin contact to be effective [5]. Make sure it fits so that two fingers just slide underneath [5]. Like any medication, cats can have allergic reactions to these collars, so watch for signs of discomfort like excessive scratching and remove the collar regularly to check for irritation [3, 5].

Environmental Control

There are things you can do to keep ticks off your cat in the first place, as well. Ticks like tall grass, brush, and wooded areas. Ideally, you would keep your cat away from these environments where ticks lay in wait [5]. Of course, if your cat has any access to the outdoors, that is probably easier said than done. You can, however, make your own property inhospitable to ticks. If you have a lawn, keep it mowed [1, 5, 8]. Get rid of tall weeds, brush piles, and unwieldy undergrowth [1, 5]. Whenever your cat comes in, go ahead and check them over with a flea comb [7].

How to Find and Remove Ticks from Your Cat

Unfortunately, parasites are wily, and sometimes they sneak past all our defenses. So what do you do if you find a tick that has already attached to your cat? First of all, don’t panic. Most tick bites do not result in an infection [2]. And you can get the gross little monster off.

Always wear disposable gloves when removing a tick, or at least put a paper towel between it and your skin [1, 2, 6]. Remember, humans can catch diseases from ticks, too, so it’s best to be safe. Also prepare a screw-top jar filled with rubbing alcohol before you remove the tick [1, 2, 6]. You are going to drop the tick in there. This is because you may want to preserve the tick to take to the veterinarian in case your cat becomes sick later, and a female tick is likely to have eggs inside that you want to make sure die with her [1, 2, 6].

With tweezers, grab the tick as close as possible to where it is attached to the skin. DO NOT jerk or twist it. This can cause the body to break off and leave the head behind, which is a serious infection risk. Rather, pull upward with steady pressure until the tick comes out. Drop it in the jar, screw the lid closed tightly, and label the jar with the date. Maybe write “TICK” on there too, just in case. You don’t want to mix that up with anything else. Disinfect the bite wound. Sterilize the tweezers with more rubbing alcohol. Wash your hands thoroughly after you throw your gloves away. Gloves are not perfect protection. [1-3, 6, 8]

If you do find a tick on your cat, Cornell Feline Health Center wants to know! They are conducting a Feline Lyme Disease Surveillance Program to test ticks that have been found on cats for the bacteria that cause Lyme disease. Visit the webpage to find out more.

Works Cited

  1. American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. (n.d.). Fleas and ticks. https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/general-pet-care/fleas-and-ticks
  2. Cornell Feline Health Center. (n.d.). Ticks and your cat. Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine. https://www.vet.cornell.edu/departments-centers-and-institutes/cornell-feline-health-center/health-information/feline-health-topics/ticks-and-your-cat
  3. Fogle, B. (1999). The complete illustrated guide to cat care and behavior. Thunder Bay Press: San Diego.
  4. Karwath, A. (2022, February 23). Cats and ticks. Blue Cross UK. https://www.bluecross.org.uk/advice/cat/cats-and-ticks
  5. Kvamme, J. (2011, June 14). 10 ways to stop ticks from biting your cat. PetMD. https://www.petmd.com/cat/parasites/evr_ct_10_ways_to_stop_ticks_from_biting_your_cat
  6. Llera, R. and Ward, E. (n.d.). Ticks in cats. VCA Animal Hospitals. https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/ticks-in-cats
  7. Schwab, S. (2022, June 17). The best tick prevention for cats, according to a veterinarian. The Dodo. https://www.thedodo.com/dodowell/tick-prevention-for-cats
  8. Tick prevention for cats. (2018, August 8). Beattie Pet Hospital. https://beattiepethospitalhamilton.com/2018/08/08/tick-prevention-for-cats/

Published July 10, 2022

Updated July 11, 2022

Cat Care

Are Essential Oils Safe for Your Cat?

mehshadoweye

Meredith Hemphill

mehshadoweye

Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Essential oils and candle
Photo by Chelsea shapouri on Unsplash

Essential oils are a popular tool for home wellness and perfumery. Not only can they be bought bottled, but essential oils are now found in many personal care, cleaning, and scented products. We know that some substances which are safe for humans can be toxic to our pets, like certain foods, so should oil enthusiasts with cats be concerned?

Essential Oil Toxicity in Cats

The Swiss physician and alchemist Paracelsus is credited with the saying, “The dose makes the poison.” If taken the wrong way or in too great a quantity, essential oils are toxic to humans. Consider how much smaller your cat is than you [7, 9, 10, 14]. Their biology isn’t quite the same, either. Nature didn’t intend cats to consume a lot of plant materials. They have lower levels of the liver enzymes necessary to metabolize chemicals called phenols and terpenes that are found in certain essential oils [1-5, 9, 12]. The following oils are known to be toxic to cats:

  • Cinnamon
  • Citrus (lemon, lime, orange, bergamot)
  • Clove
  • Eucalyptus
  • Pennyroyal
  • Peppermint
  • Pine
  • Sweet Birch
  • Tea Tree/Melaleuca
  • Wintergreen
  • Ylang Ylang

Research on the effects of essential oils on cats is sparse, so there is no guarantee that oils which are not on this list are safe [5, 10]. Individual cats could be sensitive to oils that most cats are not, as well [7]. Therefore, use caution when trying out any essential oil around your cat for the first time.

The symptoms of essential oil toxicity in cats depend upon the oil, the dose, and the method of exposure, but there are things you can look out for. Common symptoms are watery nose or eyes, drooling, vomiting, difficulty breathing, tremors, wobbliness, low heart rate, and low body temperature [2-5, 8, 9, 12, 13]. In severe cases, essential oil poisonings can cause liver failure and death [2-5, 8, 12]. While there is no specific cure for essential oil toxicity, most cats recover well with supportive care such as bathing to remove the oil, intravenous fluids, medication, and heat [4, 5, 8, 12].

How To Keep Cats Safe Around Essential Oils

Tabby cat in box with bottles
Image by mrscaz from Pixabay

Cats may be exposed to oils by inhalation, absorption through the skin, or ingestion. Because of their fastidious grooming habits, cats are likely to ingest any oils that end up on their fur [2, 3, 5, 9-12]. You can use essential oils safely in a home with cats. You just need to be careful and keep all the possible routes of exposure in mind.

Cats may inhale essential oils that are aerosolized from lit scented candles, liquid potpourri, air fresheners, diffusers, or similar. Whenever you are using one of these products around your cat, make sure that your cat is able to leave the area if it gets to be too much for them [7, 9, 10]. Watch for signs of respiratory irritation like coughing, panting, or watery eyes and nose [3, 10]. If your cat shows symptoms, move them to fresh air immediately and bring them to a veterinarian if their condition does not improve within a few minutes [3, 9].

If your cat has asthma, allergies, or other respiratory conditions or is exposed to second-hand smoke, it is best not to diffuse essential oils or use essential oil-containing products that put particles into the air [3, 5, 9].

Always keep essential oils and products that contain them out of your cat’s reach, especially in the case of open diffusers or warmers. Cats are often repelled by the smell of substances that are toxic to them, but not always, and there have been cases of cats drinking essential oils [9]. Keeping oils, diffusers, etc. away from cats also prevents curious kitties from knocking over or breaking said containers and spilling the oil all over themself which can be very dangerous.

Of course, use extra caution with the essential oils that are known to be toxic to cats. And never apply concentrated essential oils to your cat’s skin or fur. Don’t use oils on your cat at all without consulting a veterinarian first.

Can Essential Oils Be Good for Cats?

That being said, there are times when essential oils can be used for your pet’s benefit. Unfortunately, as with oil toxicity, the research is scarce, so little can be said for certain. Proponents of using essential oils for pets say that they can be used to heal wounds and abscesses; get rid of fleas, ticks, and ear mites; treat upper respiratory infections; and treat Otitis externa, a.k.a. canker of the ear [1, 7, 10]. Sadly, irresponsible use of oils, particularly tea tree oil, for these purposes has caused suffering and occasionally death for the cats of well-meaning owners [4, 8, 13]. However, what little research there is has demonstrated that when used properly, certain essential oils show promise for the treatment of several conditions oil enthusiasts have claimed they do.

Ebani et al. found that the essential oils of oregano, clary sage, and rosemary showed promise in the treatment of Otitis externa, depending upon the strain of bacteria or fungus that caused it [6]. In testing plant oils against a fungus that causes ringworm, Mugnaini et al. determined that the oils of oregano and wild thyme showed strong antifungal activity [11]. Regarding ear mites, a study of ear mites in cats found garlic oil, marjoram oil, and ozonated olive oil to be effective at reducing the infestation [15]. While the oils were not as effective as the pharmaceutical medication, the authors concluded that they were “cheap, easily applicable, and safe alternatives to conventional treatments with no side effects” [15].

Works Cited

  1. Baser, K. H. C. & Franz, C. (2010). Essential oils used in veterinary medicine. In K. H. C. Baser & G Buchbauer (Eds.), Handbook of essentials oils: Science, technology, and applications (pp. 881-894). Taylor and Francis Group: Boca Raton, FL.
  2. Beck, A. (2019, August 30). Is it safe to use essential oils with cats? University Veterinary Hospital. https://uvhvets.com/is-it-safe-to-use-essential-oils-with-cats/
  3. Benson, K. (n.d.). Essential oils and cats. Pet Poison Helpline. https://www.petpoisonhelpline.com/blog/essential-oils-cats/
  4. Bischoff, K. & Guale, F. (1998). Australian tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) oil poisoning in three purebred cats. Journal of Veterinary Diagnostic Investigation, 10, 208-210. DOI: 10.1177/104063879801000223
  5. Cavanaugh, K. & Kornya, M. (2018, July 31). Cats and essential oils. Canadian Veterinary Medical Association. https://www.canadianveterinarians.net/documents/cats-and-essential-oils
  6. Ebani, V. V., Nardoni, S., Bertelloni, F., Najar, B., Pistelli, L., & Mancianti, F. (2017). Antibacterial and antifungal activity of essential oils against pathogens responsible for Otitis Externa in dogs and cats. Medicines, 4(2), 21. https://doi.org/10.3390/medicines4020021
  7. Essential oils a pets: A quick how-to. (2019, October 25). Young Living. https://www.youngliving.com/blog/essential-oils-for-pets-a-quick-how-to/
  8. Genovese, A. G., McLean, M., & Khan, S. A. (2012). Adverse reactions from essential oil-containing natural flea products exempted from Environmental Protection Agency regulations in dogs and cats. Journal of Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care, 22(4), 470-475. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1476-4431.2012.00780.x
  9. Howard, B. (2020, August 24). How to keep cats safe around essential oils. Daily Paws. https://www.dailypaws.com/cats-kittens/health-care/cat-poisoning-toxins/essential-oils-safe-for-cats
  10. How I use essential oils safely for my pets. And you can, too! (n.d.). Capital Illini Veterinary Services. https://www.capitolillinivet.com/blog/how-i-use-essential-oils-safely-for-my-pets-and-you-can-too/
  11. Mugnaini, L., Nardoni, S., Pinto, L., Pistelli, L., Leonardi, M., Pisseri, F., et al. (2012). Activité antifongique de quelques huiles essentielles de plantes in vitro et in vivo sur Microsporum canis isolé chez le chat. Journal de Mycologie Médicale, 22(2), 179-184. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.mycmed.2012.04.003
  12. Schmid, R., Brutlag, A., & Flint, C. (n.d.). Essential oil and liquid potpourri poisoning in cats. VCA Hospitals. https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/essential-oil-and-liquid-potpourri-poisoning-in-cats
  13. Villar, D., Knight, M. J., Hansen, S. R., & Buck, W. B. (1994). Toxicity of melaleuca oil and related essential oils applied topically on dogs and cats. Veterinary and Human Toxicology, 36(2), 139-142. https://europepmc.org/article/med/8197716
  14. Worwood, V. A. (2016). The complete book of essential oils and aromatherapy (25th anniversary edition). New World Library: Novato, CA.
  15. Yipel, F. A., Acar, A., & Yipel, M. (2016). Effect of some essential oils (Allium sativum L., Origanum majorana L.) and ozonated olive oil on the treatment of ear mites (Otodectes cynotis) in cats. Turkish Journal of Veterinary and Animal Sciences, 40, 782-787. DOI: 10.3906/vet-1508-10

Published January 9, 2022

Cat Care

How to Choose the Right Cat Tree

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Meredith Hemphill

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Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Store full of cat trees
Photo by Petrebels on Unsplash

The holidays have arrived. If you buy holiday gifts for your pets, and you have a cat, well, you already know they can be hard to shop for. A nice cat tree would make a good gift, surely, but there are so many to choose from! They can be expensive, too. No one wants to break the bank for a fancy cat tree only for their cat to ignore it in favor of the box it came in. How can you know you’re getting a cat tree that your cat will love? There are few guarantees in life, but a few simple tips can help you make sure the cat tree you’re buying is a castle worthy of your home’s furry royalty–as soon as they finish checking out the box.

Step One: Observe and Measure

Cat trees do a few things for cats. They satisfy their natural instincts to climb, hide, and scratch [1, 3-5]. These are all necessary behaviors for cats, and cat trees provide a safe and non-destructive outlet for them. Every cat has their individual preferences, however. Some careful observation now can save you a lot of wasted time and expense on a cat tree they won’t use later.

Climbing

Most cats love to go up high, but there are some that don’t care for it or aren’t able to do so easily. My family once had a cat that hated to be in high places and refused to use any cat furniture except a low pedestal. Older or disabled cats may struggle to climb even if they want to [1, 4]. Smaller, simpler trees or ones with ramps may suit cats such as these [1, 4]. A small cat tree may be best for a small kitten with rudimentary climbing skills, too [4].

Hiding

Does your cat spend a lot of time sequestered in enclosed spaces? Are they a shy kitty? If so, they would probably prefer a cat tree that includes a cubbyhole for them to hide in [1]. Whether your cat would prefer an enclosed place to sleep or an open platform, think about the kind of materials they like to sleep on. Most cat trees are carpeted, but some have faux-fur platforms or are just solid wood [4].

Scratching

Finally, what kind of scratcher is your cat? Do they prefer to scratch horizontal surfaces like the carpet or vertical ones like the sofa? Which materials appeal to them–fabrics, cardboard, wood? Most cat trees have scratching posts wrapped in sisal rope, a rough plant material that nearly every cat loves to dig their claws into. It’s important that your tree has surfaces your cat will want to scratch [3]. Moreover, those surfaces need to be long enough for your cat to stretch out on [4, 5]. This is more difficult to accomplish than you might think, especially for cats that like to scratch vertically. A lot of cat trees do not have a post tall enough. Look at your cat when they stretch out, measure them if you can, and then look for a cat tree that will accommodate that stretch.

Don’t forget to take the measurements of your home into account, too! Where are you going to put the cat tree? If you plan to get a large one, make sure it will fit somewhere.

Step Two: What Makes a Quality Cat Tree

Ginger tabby kitten on cat tree
Photo by Petrebels on Unsplash

Once you have an idea what your cat needs from their cat tree, it’s time to start shopping. There are some characteristics any good cat tree needs to have.

  1. Enough perches for all the cats in your home to have their space. A good rule of thumb is twice as many perches as cats. Of course, if you have ten cats, one tree isn’t going to provide that. [1, 4]
  2. Stability. If the tree wobbles, leans, or even falls oven when your cat uses it, they’ll learn not to use it anymore. Cats won’t go easy on their furniture, so make sure it’ll hold up to a flying leap. A good cat tree should have a wide, solid base and be heavy enough to withstand all kinds of cat antics without falling. Top-heavy cat trees are no-go unless you have a plan to affix them to the walls for support. [3-5]
  3. Durability. If it feels like it’s made of cardboard, you won’t really be saving money with that cheaper price tag because you will have to replace it in no time. [4]

Many cat trees also include hanging toys. These are great additions, as they encourage your cat to explore a new tree and can keep them entertained for a long time after [1, 4]. They do get pulled off eventually, but you can always staple a new toy on in the same place [4].

Step Three: Introducing the Cat Tree

Some cats will take to a new cat tree immediately, probably “helping” you assemble it as well. Others will be more cautious of this new item in their territory and may need you to convince them that it’s safe to interact with. If that turns out to be the case with your cat, there are several things you can do. First, make sure the cat tree is in a place where your cat feels comfortable. Good locations for cat furniture include social centers of the home like the family room or near a window your cat likes to look out [1, 5].

If your cat seems to be wary of the tree no matter where you put it, all is not lost. For cats that like catnip, the herb can serve as a great way to entice your furry friend to check out the cat tree. Just sprinkle some catnip around the base and on the tree and let kitty go wild [3]!

For kittens or cats that don’t care for catnip, play or treats may do the trick better. Try using a wand toy to draw them up onto the cat tree, or at least get their paws onto it at first [3, 5]. Maybe leave a trail of treats up the tree. Of course, make sure to praise your cat for showing interest in it [3, 5]. If you did your homework well and got them the perfect tree, they’ll realize they love it in no time.

Fun Fact: The First Cat Tree

It used to be very unusual for people to keep cats indoors, but as that become more common, the problems of cats scratching furniture and climbing where they shouldn’t became apparent. Frank L. Crow set out to solve the woes of indoor cats and their humans alike, and in 1968 he patented the first cat tree. It consisted of a series of flat perches mounted on a floor-to-ceiling tension pole with a base. Removable carpeted covers were wrapped around the perches. It was simple, but quite customizable, and worn-out perches and carpeting were easy to replace. It had a very small footprint, too. As someone living in a one-bedroom apartment, I wish this was still on the market. [2]

Works Cited

  1. Benjamin, K. (2020, May 21). Everything you need to know about cat trees. Catster. https://www.catster.com/home-design/everything-you-need-to-know-about-cat-trees
  2. Crow, F. L. (1968). Cat tree (U.S. Patent No. 3,479,990). U.S. Patent and Trademark Office. https://patents.google.com/patent/US3479990A/
  3. Galaxy, J. & Hofve, J. (n.d.). How to stop your cats from scratching furniture. Jackson Galaxy. https://www.jacksongalaxy.com/blog/how-to-stop-your-cats-from-scratching-furniture/
  4. Jason C. (n.d.). How to choose a cat tree. Purrfect Kitty Cat. https://www.purrfectkittycat.com/articles/how-to-choose-a-cat-tree
  5. Moore, A. (2001). Kitten owner’s manual. Storey Publishing: North Adams, MA.

Published December 20, 2021

Updated August 14, 2022

Cat Care

How Does a Microchip Keep Your Cat Safe?

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Meredith Hemphill

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Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Microchip beside rice grain
A microchip is about the size of a grain of rice – Image from HowStuffWorks

There’s a good chance you have heard a story about a pet that was reunited with their owner thanks to their microchip. Everyone loves a heartwarming tale of a family made whole again. But the stories don’t tell you everything about microchipping. Whether your pet is already microchipped or you are trying to make that decision, you probably have questions. It isn’t as straightforward as a collar and tags. Fortunately, it isn’t rocket science, either, so get ready to demystify the microchip.

What Is a Microchip?

Pet microchips are teeny tiny electronic devices implanted just beneath the skin of an animal. Although we may think of them as something for cats and dogs, microchips can also be placed in other animals such as laboratory rodents, cattle, and horses (1). The devices are only about the size of a grain of rice. They don’t contain a battery or other power source (1, 2). Rather, they are RFID chips that contain a unique identification number (2). When a scanner is passed over the chip, the chip is briefly activated and sends back the ID number (1-3). Because there is no battery and no moving parts, the microchip never corrodes, loses power, or wears out (1, 2). It should last a pet’s entire life.

What a Microchip Is Not

There are a few common misconceptions about what microchips are/can do. First, a microchip is not a tracking device (1-3). It does not contain GPS technology or anything else that can keep tabs on your pet’s location (1-3, 6). Second, your pet’s microchip is not an external data storage device (1, 2). The only information the chip can store is its ID number (1-3). It does not track your personal information or your pet’s medical information (1, 2). When someone scans the chip, all they see is that number. If the microchip is registered in a database, they will be able to request your contact information. More on that later.

How Is a Microchip Placed?

A cat gets their microchip placed in the loose skin between their shoulder blades (2, 3). The chip is injected with a syringe a bit larger than the ones used for vaccinations (1). No anesthetic is required, and the procedure can be performed at a routine veterinary appointment (1-3). To your cat, it feels much like any other shot (1, 3). However, if your cat happens to be undergoing a surgical procedure anyway, i.e. sterilization, then the microchipping can be done at the same time (1).

If you adopt a cat from a shelter or purchase one from a breeder, there is a possibility they may already have a microchip (1, 3, 5). Although it won’t hurt a cat to be microchipped twice, there’s no need (1). Any animal shelter should already have checked for a microchip, so just ask. If you adopted a cat a while ago and don’t remember, you can call the shelter to check or have your vet scan your cat for one. They will typically do that free of charge (4, 5).

Why Are Microchips Important?

The way a microchip works is that the identification numbers are stored in databases maintained by the manufacturers and other organizations. Pet owners input their contact information–and more, if they choose–to the database in connection with their pet’s unique chip number. Then, if the pet becomes lost, and someone finds them and take them to a shelter, vet clinic, or animal control center, staff can scan for the microchip. Staff then look up the ID number and retrieve the owner’s contact information from the database. If that information is up-to-date, kitty and family can be reunited!

Before microchips, collars and tags were around for a long time, so why the high-tech upgrade? Actually, it is best practice to use both (1, 2). A collar and tags quickly show people that an outdoor or lost cat has an owner (1). A rabies tag should be included to assure all who meet your cat that it is safe to be around and in compliance with the law, if applicable (1). Plus, a tag with your contact info can greatly expedite your lost cat’s return to you–or prevent your outdoor cat from going to the shelter in the first place (1). However, cats should always wear a breakaway collar, which can obviously come off. Tags can become worn and unreadable, and cat thieves can just take the whole thing off and throw it away. But a microchip is a permanent means of identification (1, 2).

Lord et al found that lost cats without microchips were returned to their owners only 1.8% of the time (1, 6). For cats with microchips, however, the rate of successful reunions was twenty times higher (1, 4, 6)! When cats with microchips couldn’t be reconnected with their owners, it was usually because the information in the database was missing or out-of-date (1). So do not skip the section below!

How to Use Your Cat’s Microchip

Registration and Updating

A microchip is little more than a hunk of metal until you register it. Before you begin, you will need to have your cat’s microchip number and the chip’s manufacturer on hand. If you don’t have that information anywhere, ask the clinic that implanted the chip. If your pet came pre-chipped, find a veterinarian, animal control, shelter, or pet store that can scan the chip and tell you. Then you will need to go online to register the chip with a database. The obvious choice would be the database maintained by the microchip’s manufacturer. There is usually an initial cost and sometimes a periodic fee associated with these databases, however. If the cost is prohibitive, there are a handful of reputable free databases you can use instead, such as Found Animals.

If you are in the United States, it is important that you use a database which is linked to the American Animal Hospital Association’s Universal Pet Microchip Lookup Tool (4). There are international registries associated with the Universal Pet Microchip Lookup Tool as well. Go here for the full list of registries that participate. A lot of places use the AAHA’s tool to check a microchip number in many databases at once (4).

Once you are on your chosen database’s website, you will need to register a new microchip using your cat’s microchip number and probably another identifier, such as an email address or phone number. Then it’s time to input your contact information. Some services give the option to include more, such as a photo of your pet, their medical information, a description, etc. The service I use for Joon’s microchip can generate a digital Lost Pet poster if you report your pet to them as lost and send out an email alert to other members of the database in your area. If all you want to do is put in your contact info, most services will also let you opt out of the other bells and whistles.

You will need to return to the website and log back in to update your information any time it changes, like if you move or get a new phone number (4, 5). You may also be able to do this over the phone with the registry, but your veterinarian cannot do it for you.

Microchip Extras

If your cat is microchipped, you have the option to incorporate various microchip-compatible devices into your cat’s life. There are feeders which sync with your cat’s microchip and only allow that particular cat to put their head in (6). These can be good for monitoring food intake or multipet homes where making sure no one gets into each others’ food is a priority (6). There are also cat doors that only open for the cat with the synced microchip, keeping out any unwanted guests (6). I don’t know how those work in multicat households, but I’m sure someone has thought of that. So microchips come in handy even if your kitty never gets lost even for a minute.

Works Cited

  1. American Veterinary Medical Association. (n.d.). Microchipping of animals FAQ. AVMA. https://www.avma.org/microchipping-animals-faq
  2. Get the facts on microchipping: Separate microchipping facts from fiction. (n.d.). HomeAgain. https://www.homeagain.com/microchipping-facts.html
  3. Burgos, S. (2020, August 24). Everything you need to know about microchipping your cat. Daily Paws. https://www.dailypaws.com/cats-kittens/cat-safety-tips/microchip-cat
  4. Kelley, T. L. (2021, July 8). Updated your pet’s microchip contact info lately? It’s easy. Daily Paws. https://www.dailypaws.com/dogs-puppies/dog-safety-tips/pet-microchip-lookup
  5. Nicholas, J. (2021, July 8). Is you pet’s microchip registered? Up-to-date? Here’s how to do both. Preventive Vet. https://www.preventivevet.com/dogs/how-to-update-your-pets-microchip
  6. Top 3 reasons why microchipping cats matters. (n.d.). Sure Petcare. https://www.surepetcare.com/en-us/advice-news/top-3-reasons-why-microchipping-cats-matters

Published July 25, 2021

Cat Care

How to Travel with Your Cat: Roadtrip Edition

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Meredith Hemphill

mehshadoweye

Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Tabby cat in suitcase
Photo by Casey Wilson from Pixabay

I am on of those people that leaves my cat at home when I have to leave overnight. I have someone feed her and check in on her, and then I’ll see her when I get home. It’s not that I don’t enjoy her company, but traveling with cats is hard, and Joon doesn’t care for the wonders of modern transportation. Well, in August I have to move to another state, nine hours away by car, and of course Joon is coming with me. I’ve moved with her before, but it was just a quick trip to get there. This will be a new experience for both of us. So I thought it was an excellent opportunity for us all to learn together how to travel with cats.

An Ounce of Preparation

The best way to travel is well-prepared, and the same goes for travel with your cats. There is a lot that you can and should do before you leave to make everything go smoothly. Before anything else, however, ask yourself if you really ought to take kitty with you. If you just going on a short vacation, many cats might prefer to stay home (1, 5, 9). Extended car rides are usually very stressful for cats. If you are going to be gone for months or longer, or you are permanently relocating, then it can be worth it so that your cat doesn’t endure the greater stress of not being able to join you. If you are fortunate enough to have one of the rare few cats that loves going for a drive, then your pet can be a much more frequent travel companion (5, 9).

Gather Your Supplies

What do you need to pack for your cat? To some extent, that depends upon where you are going and for how long, but for any road trip there are certain bases you need to cover:

  • A carrier or crate for riding in the car
  • A litterbox
  • Food, water, and bowls to put them in
  • Veterinary records, including up-to-date rabies tag
  • Your cat’s medications, if applicable
  • A pet first-aid kit

Even for short vacations, you’ll probably also want to bring their cat bed or other cozy thing they like to sleep on and a couple beloved toys. Cats need to scratch, so if you don’t have room to pack a scratching post, I’d recommend you find somewhere for a cardboard or sisal scratching board. Wherever you’re staying probably won’t appreciate your cat leaving their mark on the furniture.

The Cat Carrier

There are lots of options for cat carriers and crates out there. You need to choose one that is large enough for your cat. This means kitty needs to be able to stand, lie down, stretch, and turn around comfortably inside (1, 2, 4, 9). As for the other features of the carrier/crate, it’s up to you and what works best for your situation. There are cat carriers with soft or hard sides. Some are specifically rated for air travel, if that’s also in your plans, and some include a widget that snaps into the seat belt for ease of securing it. Some larger models even include built-in litterboxes. The Sleepypod brand does crash testing on their carriers to maximize their car safety (6). No one carrier or crate has everything. You can do a DIY crate, however, which allows for a lot of customization.

Three kittens in carrier
Make sure your carrier is large enough for your cat (or kittens) – Photo by Gundula Vogel from Pixabay

If your car will accommodate a large dog crate, you can jerry-rig a travel kitty condo (3, 6, 9). A dog crate can be used for one or more cats (9). It fits a travel litterbox inside, which simplifies things (3, 6). And you can incorporate hammocks or shelves to give your cats more space and comfort (6). Just make sure you test out any multilevel additions thoroughly both at home and on test drives before the big day so that you know they will hold up.

The Litterbox

If the drive is more than a couple hours, or you have a senior cat, you will need to give kitty bathroom breaks (9). Cats tend to drink less when they’re stressed, so they may not need it, but give them plenty of opportunity anyway. If your cat is used to eliminating outdoors, it might be best to take them outside on a leash to do their business instead of trying to get them used to a litter box for the first time during the trip (4, 6). If they aren’t leash trained, but you want to do this, start leash training well in advance of your travel date. Introducing too many new things at once is never a good idea.

If you can fit a litterbox inside your cat’s carrier/crate, that is the easiest thing (4, 5, 6, 9). A standard litterbox may be too large, but there are other options. You can buy a travel litterbox. These are typically collapsible and come in carrier-friendly sizes (6). A dish pan may also work (3), or a kitten-sized litterbox. You can also repurpose a cardboard box by cutting it to the right shape and size, lining it with plastic, i.e. a garbage bag, and there you go, a custom disposable litterbox (5)! You can purchase disposable litterboxes as well.

Maybe there is just no way you are going to get a litterbox into the carrier you have. Don’t fret. It’s a little more involved, but there’s a way to work with that. Put out a litterbox for your cat whenever you stop for their bathroom breaks (1, 7). Only do this with the car stopped and all the doors and windows closed! Let your cat out of their carrier (1, 7). When they’re done, either scoop into pet waste bags and throw those out or, if you’re using a disposable litter box, you can bag and throw the whole thing away (1, 7). I recommend you set the litterbox directly in front of the carrier before letting the cat out so they know what to do and don’t instead get sensory overload and hide in some impossible crevasse of your car.

Make Your First Trip Be to the Vet

There are several important reasons to visit the vet before traveling with your cats. One is to make sure that they are healthy enough to travel (7). You would probably know if they weren’t, but it is best to be absolutely certain. If your cat has a chronic illness, you want to make sure it is stable and well-controlled before heading out, too (6). Get any necessary vaccinations up-to-date. Ask for enough medication for the duration of your travel time plus at least several days (6). The same goes for any prescription diet your cat may be on (6). Ask for a print-out of your cat’s medical records (1, 6, 9). You may need these to prove your cat’s vaccination status or to show another vet if your cat needs medical attention.

If you will be crossing state line in the United States, you are required by law to carry a Certificate of Veterinary Inspection, a.k.a. health certificate, for each of your cats (1, 2, 9). This also applies to dogs, if you have those too. You need to get the health certificate from your veterinarian within ten days of your travel date (2). The health certificate means your veterinarian is signing off that your pet doesn’t have any signs of infectious disease and is current on their vaccinations (2). An exam is required for your vet to issue the certificate (2).

If you know that your cat gets motion sickness or is extremely anxious about car rides, you may want to use this opportunity to ask your veterinarian to prescribe medication for the road trip (1, 3, 6). This isn’t the best solution for all cats. Medication can have side effects, so if you can keep your cat calm without it, that’s preferable. There are calming treats and pheromone products that you can try on practice runs. For some cats, though, it’s just not enough. My parents’ cat, Rosenberg, gets so anxious about riding in the car that she starts vomiting and having diarrhea before the car gets to the end of the driveway. Sometimes medication is the only way. Make sure you have it on hand ahead of time and know the dosage, usage, and side effects to watch for.

Cat with head out of car window
Photo by Sunykiller from Pixabay

Acclimate Your Cat

As you are coming up on your road trip, it is in everybody’s best interest to get your cat used to their travel carrier and the car. Start by setting out their carrier and encouraging them to interact with it through treats, toys, or catnip (4, 5). You can even try feeding them near and later inside the carrier (3, 4, 9).

Once your cat is comfortable going in and out of the carrier, practice closing the door with them inside for a short time, then opening it and giving them a treat (3). Do this until your cat no longer seems upset about the closed door. Progress to taking the cat to the car and back before giving them the treat (5, 8). Eventually you can turn the car on for a few minutes with kitty inside (3, 6). Don’t drive anywhere, just turn the car off and take them back inside. Remember not to do this in a closed garage! Carbon monoxide poisoning can happen faster than you might think, especially for a small animal.

Once your cat is okay with the sound of the engine, you can start taking short trips. Start very short, like going to the end of the driveway or parking lot and back (6, 8). Slowly make longer and longer trips up until its time for the big trip (6, 8). Your cat is still probably going to be stressed when the day comes because travel involves more than just the carrier and the car. If parts of the experience seem normal, though, it won’t be nearly as scary.

Head Out on the Highway

When the day of your vacation or move arrives, don’t feed your cat to avoid motion sickness and anxious vomiting (1, 3, 4). If you are leaving late in the day, you could feed breakfast but skip any other meals. Pack everything but the cat first. Make sure you leave room for the carrier. Put a soft lining in the bottom of the cat’s carrier like a pet bed or old towel (1). If you are putting a litterbox inside the carrier, put that in before the cat, too. Do not put a water bowl in the carrier–it will only spill (1). Instead plan to offer your cat water at every stop (1-4).

The very last thing you do should be to put your cat in their carrier and load them in the car (5). Strap the carrier in with the seatbelt (1, 4, 6). If you expect your cat to be anxious, you can cover the carrier with a dark, breathable cloth (4). Cats find this calming. Make sure the air conditioning streams aren’t directly blasting the cat (4). Finally, you’re ready to travel with your cat! Expect some crying at first. Speak to your cat soothingly (6). They should settle down after a while.

Under no circumstances should you let your cat roam the vehicle while it is in motion (1, 6, 8). It’s a matter of safety, for people and pets. Your cat could get under the driver’s feet or obscure their line of sight (1, 6, 8). Whether kitty is panicking or being an angel, they might be a distraction that could cause an accident (6, 8). And should there be an accident for any reason, an unsecured cat is in much more danger of injury or death (1, 6, 8).

If You Need to Leave the Car

I would hope this goes without saying, but pets die in hot cars every year, so I’m going to say it. Never leave your pet in the car unattended. Even if it doesn’t seem especially hot or cold outside, your cat can get dangerously hyperthermic or hypothermic very quickly. Parked cars are especially apt to get hot inside. If you are traveling alone, take your cat with you when you leave the car, leave the car running, or crack the windows and only leave for a few minutes (6). Ideally, travel with at least one other person so someone can stay with the cat with the air conditioning on at all times. The temperature inside your car can increase almost 20 degrees Fahrenheit in just ten minutes. Take this seriously.

How Parked Cars Heat Up So Fast in the Sun

Where to Stay

If you will be staying in a hotel or other commercial lodgings, call and make sure that cats are allowed, even if they claim to be pet-friendly. Sometimes, what they actually mean is “dog-friendly” (4). Or their policies may have changed but their website hasn’t. In addition, some places will only have certain rooms that are pet-friendly, so you will want to double-check that you have been placed in the right kind of room (6). GoPetFriendly.com has a search tool for locating pet-friendly lodging in the United States. Happy trails!

Works Cited

  1. All Feline Hospital. (n.d.). Traveling with your cat. https://www.allfelinehospital.com/traveling-with-your-cat.pml
  2. American Veterinary Medical Association. (n.d.). 11 things you can do to make travel safer for you and your pet. https://www.avma.org/resources/pet-owners/petcare/11-things-you-can-do-make-travel-safer-you-and-your-pet
  3. Hunter, T. and Downing, R. (n.d.). Road trips and car travel with your cat. VCA Hospitals. https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/road-trips-and-car-travel-with-your-cat
  4. Mahar, Autumn. (2019, January 7). Tips for moving a cat long distance. U-Pack. https://www.upack.com/articles/tips-for-moving-a-cat-long-distance
  5. Moore, A. (2001). The kitten owner’s manual. Storey Publishing: North Adams, MA.
  6. Nicholas, J. (2021, May 10). Car travel with cats: Road trips and moving. Preventive Vet. https://www.preventivevet.com/cats/how-to-travel-and-move-with-cats
  7. Richard, M. (2020, May 26). We drove cross-country with our cat (and nobody died). Vagabondish. https://vagabondish.com/how-to-travel-with-cat-in-a-car-long-distance/
  8. Shojai, A. (2019, August 8). 8 tips to help cats enjoy car travel. The Spruce Pets. https://www.thesprucepets.com/help-cats-enjoy-car-travel-553891
  9. Tips on how to move or travel with your cat. (n.d.). PetHub. https://www.pethub.com/article/pet-care/tips-on-how-to-move-or-travel-with-your-cat

Published May 23th, 2021

Updated May 12th, 2023

Cat Care

How to Choose the Best Cat Litter

mehshadoweye

Meredith Hemphill

mehshadoweye

Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Gray cat beside litterbox
Photo by Litter Robot on Unsplash

I was recently forced to switch brands of cat litter because the place I shop stopped carrying the one I had been using for most of Joon’s life. Upon searching for a suitable replacement, I was immediately confronted with the overwhelming variety of cat litter options available on the market today. What I thought would be, at most, a ten minute task took an hour-and-a-half as I fell down a rabbit hole of customer reviews and “best cat litters” rankings. No one deserves to suffer as I have suffered. Instead, I am putting together a handy guide to the types of cat litter and the factors about them that matter.

Material Matters

Before World War II, there was no such thing as cat litter. Most cats were outdoor or indoor-outdoor and didn’t have litterboxes at all (10). Increased urbanization had brought more cats inside as family pets, however, creating a need for the litterbox. So people with indoor cats would fill boxes with sand or ashes and keep them somewhere out-of-the-way (10). It was a solution, but not a great one. Sand and ash do nothing for absorption and little for odor control, and they track everywhere. They are horrible substances when it comes to tracking. My last apartment had a wood-burning fireplace. We never used it, yet the whole apartment was gray by the time we moved out thanks to my cat. But pre-war homeowners had nothing better to use. Those of us who live in the era of cat litter have a man named Edward Lowe to thank.

Ed was a former sailor whose father had a company that manufactured absorbent clay (10). This clay was used to clean up oil and grease spills in wartime factories (10) and civilian garages alike (5). Ed realized those same absorbent properties might work in litterboxes, and he was right (4, 5, 10). In 1947, he registered his invention under the name Kitty Litter (9). Granulated clay litters are still used today, but a lot of other materials have been added since Ed Lowe created the litter market. We’ll start with the old stand-by.

Clay

The original type of cat litter made from granulated clay is still an option. It’s usually the cheapest kind of litter (4, 5). It has good absorption but doesn’t clump, so the whole pan needs to be thrown out and refilled once it’s too soiled (4, 5). That usually takes about a week for a single cat (5, 10). Granulated clay tends to have good odor control (7). These days, many formulations include additives like carbon or plant extracts to boost the odor control properties (7). Granulated clay litter usually doesn’t track too bad (10), but it can be pretty dusty (4, 7).

In the 1980s, biochemist and cat person Thomas Nelson, on a quest for a better litter, discovered that bentonite clay forms clumps when wet (5,10). Now waste could simply be scooped out of the litterbox instead of the whole box being dumped all the time. Thus, clumping clay cat litter was born. Obviously the biggest advantage of clumping clay litter is the ease of clean-up (2-5, 7, 10). Those clumps also lend themselves to greener pet care. Since the box doesn’t need to be completely emptied as often as it does with granulated clay, clumping clay litter causes less waste and is better for the environment (5, 10). It also tends to be better for odor control (5, 10). Bentonite clay is still dusty, though (3, 4, 7). It’s also quite heavy (3, 4).

There are now lightweight formulas to mitigate that last issue (4, 9). These mix bentonite clay with less weighty mineral particles (4). There are also lightweight granulated clay litters that use a different, lighter-weight type of clay (4). These have much the same advantages and disadvantages as the heavier cat litters they are derived from. The bags or boxes are just easier to lift and transport.

Eco-Friendly

This is a new but fast-growing slice of the cat litter market. More people are trying to make earth-conscious decisions, and that includes their pets. Clay litter is not biodegradable (7). So, there has been a push for sustainably sourced cat litter that is. There are a lot of types of eco-friendly litter now, which is great, but we don’t want to be here all day. Instead, I’m just going to summarize them.

  • Wheat: Utilizes the starches and enzymes in wheat to clump and control odor. Low-dust and low-tracking. (4, 7)
  • Corn: Most common natural cat litter. Utilizes the starches and enzymes in corn to clump and control odor. Low-dust. Can be expensive. (4, 7)
  • Pine/wood: May be made from recycled lumber scraps for added eco-friendliness. Comes in pellet, granule, or crushed form. Wood scents aid odor control. Low-dust. Naturally absorbent but does not clump. (4, 7)
  • Paper: Recycled paper made into pellets or granules. Highly absorbent and essentially dust-free. Granule form clumps. Lacking on odor control. (4, 7)
  • Grass: Made from one of several types of grass. Good clumping and odor control. (4)
  • Coconut husk: Made from the outside part of coconuts. Clumps, but not tightly. Low-dust. Natural coconut scent aids odor control. Not the most widely available option. (7)
  • Walnut shells: Crushed walnut shells, makes for a dark brown litter. Good clumping and odor control. Low-dust and low-tracking. (4, 7)
Cat litter pellets
Some cat litter comes in pellets – Photo by Michal Zacharzewski from FreeImages

I’ve also heard of more niche eco-friendly cat litters made of hemp, peas, green tea, yuca, sugarcane, and even tofu. Some eco-friendly cat litter is compostable or even flushable, although personally I’m not sure flushing cat litter is a great idea (5, 10). Because cats will ingest small amounts of litter while grooming and come into skin contact with their litter, it is important to make sure any cat with allergies is not given an eco-friendly litter containing an ingredient(s) they are allergic to (3). Some of these cat litters contain a lot of different plant ingredients, so check carefully. It’s also important to note that these plant-based litters can attract insects if not stored properly (7).

Silica

Silica is perhaps the latest and greatest when it comes to cat litter. This type of cat litter is made of tiny silica gel crystals or beads (4, 5, 7, 10). Silica is a naturally-occurring mineral that happens to be highly-absorbent (7). These litters are the most expensive, but some say they’re worth the price (3-5, 7). Silica cat litter is famously dust-free and low-tracking (3-5). It has great odor-control (3, 4, 7). It’s so absorptive, it can, in theory, last up to a month for one cat before needing to be changed out (7). It doesn’t clump, though, so that does mean throwing the whole litterbox-full out at the end of the month, or sooner if you have multiple cats (5).

It is the diagnostic cat litters that have really put silica at the front of the pack lately, however. Diagnostic litter contains pH indicators that change color in response to urine (1, 9). By indicating the pH of a cat’s urine, diagnostic litter can be a powerful tool for monitoring kitty’s health (1, 9). Urinary tract infections, kidney disease, and diabetes are some of the diseases that can affect the pH of a cat’s urine (9). For cat’s that have chronic urinary complaints, diagnostic cat litter could be especially helpful (9).

It is important to keep in mind that nothing matters more when choosing a cat litter than what your cat thinks. If something about their litter distresses a cat, there’s a good chance they won’t use it. That said, some cats do not like the sharp, gritty texture of silica crystals under their paws (4, 5, 7).

Clumping or Non-Clumping?

Cats may not go out and buy their litter, but they will make the final decision on whether they use it or not. Their opinion is the most important. So what do they prefer? Certainly their waste would be unlikely to form neat little clumps out in the wild. But that is actually what they prefer. Maybe it’s because the clumping action instantly helps clean up the place. Whatever the reason, cats prefer clumping litter to non-clumping litter (1, 3, 5, 9).

Scented or Unscented?

Some cat litter is scented to cover up the smell of cat waste. Lavender seems to be a favorite, by my observation. This has never appealed to me, but I can see why it might. Who would want to smell cat urine when they could smell flowers? Well, cats disagree. Cats generally don’t like strong smells (1, 3, 7). Even if that scented litter doesn’t smell very strong to you, it might to your cat’s much more sensitive nose. Those scents can linger on your cat after they’ve left the litterbox, too, which they really won’t like (3). Of course, all cats are individuals, so some will tolerate scented litter, but it’s best to avoid it. The litterbox should be scooped/cleaned often enough that it doesn’t reek, anyway.

Cat behaviorist Jackson Galaxy gives his tips for a litterbox your cat will want to visit

Special Considerations

Kittens and Trainees

There are some things to keep in mind when deciding what to put in the litterbox of kittens, especially very young ones. Years ago, a magazine article sounded the alarm that clumping cat litter might be dangerous for kittens (10). The concern is that kittens may eat litter because they explore with their mouths, and the clumping litter would clog their intestines (2, 10). Veterinarians don’t see evidence that this is something that really happens much if ever (2, 10). Still, it may be a good idea to stick with non-clumping cat litter while young kittens are getting used to the litter box (2, 10).

When it comes to litterbox training, both kittens and adult cats that haven’t used the box before can benefit from special litter (1, 6). Cat attractant litters and litter additives are formulated to emit a scent that gets cats’ attention and draws them to the litterbox (1, 6). Kerrie McKeon, designated cat expert for the Greater NYC animal rescue Bideawee, swears by this stuff (1). When Bideawee rescued a large group of cats, none of which had ever used a litterbox, she filled their litterboxes with cat attractant litter (1). All of the cats learned how to use a litterbox without the need for medication (1).

Asthma and Respiratory Disease

For cats with asthma or other respiratory ailments, litter dust can be a big problem (1, 9). It’s right in their faces! “Imagine trying to use the bathroom in a dust storm,” explains feline training-and-behavior specialist Cathy Bosley (1). All that dust can be a serious respiratory irritant and cause or worsen an asthma attack (9). There’s probably no such thing as a truly dust-free litter. Still, the goal is minimal dust. Litter specifically meant for cats with respiratory ailments or paper-based litter can be good options (9).

Surgical Recovery

Cats that are recovering from surgery, even a routine spay/neuter, need special consideration. Their litter might not be the first thing to come to mind as part of their aftercare, but it can make a difference. Some types of litter can get stuck and build up on sutures, bandages, wounds, etc. (1, 9). Clumping litter is the primary culprit for this problem (1). Besides being gross, stuck litter can irritate sensitive tissue (1). I can only imagine what kind of infection risk it poses. Pelleted paper cat litter is the gold standard for surgical recovery because it does not stick (1, 9). Cats are not fans of sudden changes, though, so if you have the time before a scheduled surgery, it’s best to start switching litters beforehand.

Declawed Cats

Never, ever declaw a cat. Ever. But maybe you already have a declawed cat. My former roommate and I once adopted an abandoned cat and discovered that all four of his paws had been declawed, which is almost never done. So if you’ve already got a furry friend who is missing the ends of their digits, they may have some issues that other cats don’t. Litterbox trouble is a common one. Declawed cats have chronic foot pain, and the litterbox can make this worse (8). The act of digging can be difficult and/or painful (8). Also, the dust and particles of litter between their toes, as well as grooming it out later, can really hurt declawed cats (8). The right cat litter can alleviate the discomfort, however.

The key is to find the softest cat litter possible (8). Pelleted litter is usually a bad idea–it’s too hard and bumpy (8). Look for lightweight, fine-grained litter (8). Eco-friendly litters can be softest, depending upon what they’re made of and the texture, so maybe give them a try (8). My roommate used a wheat litter for the declawed rescue cat. He was equally happy with the grass litter in Joon’s boxes.

Works Cited

  1. Adelson, K. I. (2020, October 1). The best cat litter, according to vets. The Strategist. https://nymag.com/strategist/article/best-cat-litter.html
  2. CatHealth. (n.d.). Best litter for kittens: Is clumping litter safe? CatHealth.com. https://www.cathealth.com/cat-care/safety/2300-best-litter-for-kittens-is-clumping-litter-safe
  3. CatHealth. (n.d.). What is the best type of cat litter? CatHealth.com. https://www.cathealth.com/cat-care/accessories/2439-what-is-the-best-type-of-cat-litter
  4. Golon, C. (2014, August 5). The cat owner’s guide to kitty litter options. VetStreet. http://www.vetstreet.com/our-pet-experts/the-cat-owners-guide-to-kitty-litter-options
  5. Lee, J. A. (2008). Kitty litter: Does it really matter what type I buy? Pet Health Network. https://www.pethealthnetwork.com/cat-health/cat-behavior/kitty-litter-does-it-really-matter-what-type-i-buy
  6. Nicholas, J. (2021, March 21). Litter box 101: What type of litter is best for your cat. Preventive Vet. https://www.preventivevet.com/cats/what-type-of-litter-is-best-for-your-cat
  7. Petco. (n.d.). Choosing the best cat litter for your household. https://www.petco.com/content/petco/PetcoStore/en_US/pet-services/resource-center/new-pet/Choosing-the-Right-Cat-Litter.html
  8. PetMD Editorial. (2019, April 9). What’s the best litter for declawed cats? PetMD. https://www.petmd.com/cat/care/whats-best-litter-declawed-cats
  9. Robins, S. (2020, January 26). Finding the right litter. Catster. E-newsletter.
  10. Schultz, J. L. (2003). How to choose a cat litter. Petfinder. https://www.petfinder.com/cats/bringing-a-cat-home/choose-cat-litter/

Published March 28, 2021

Cat Care

What is Trap-Neuter-Return (TNR)?

mehshadoweye

Meredith Hemphill

mehshadoweye

Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Trap-neuter-return (TNR) is the process of humanely trapping community cats, sterilizing them, and then returning them to the location where they were caught. TNR is also sometimes called trap-neuter-release, trap-neuter-vaccinate-return (TNVR), and trap-neuter-return-monitor (TNRM).

Feral tabby cat in trap
Image by sandid from Pixabay

The accepted method of free-roaming cat control has been to take lethal measures. Animal control has used trap-and-kill methods for over a hundred years (1, 5, 9). In addition to being horrible, it clearly has not worked. Community cats didn’t disappear or even diminish as a result. This is due to the vacuum effect.

The vacuum effect happens when animals are removed from an environment, but the resources in the environment stay the same (3, 5). The remaining animals of the species will either breed until they reach the environment’s capacity again, or animals from elsewhere will migrate to the area, or both (1, 3, 5, 9, 11). In the end, no matter how many community cats animal control departments have euthanized, the population has always recovered. TNR was created as a solution that is humane and, while it takes time, ultimately effective.

How Does TNR Work?

The goal of TNR is to reduce community cat populations over time with the least possible harm to individual cats. Ideally, the cats ultimately benefit. Cats are trapped in box traps, which are designed to not cause injury, and taken to a veterinarian. How much care they receive at the clinic depends on who is doing the TNR, but at minimum the cat is sterilized. Rabies vaccines are pretty standard (1-3, 5, 9). A variety of other vaccinations are sometimes given as well. The cats are examined, and any health issues or injuries are treated.

During the spay/neuter surgery, veterinarians often mark community cats so that others can tell they are sterilized. This prevents the cats from the unnecessary stress of being captured and possibly operated on again (3, 6, 13). Eartipping is a common method of marking sterilized community cats. Eartipping means the vet removes the top quarter inch of a cat’s ear, usually the left ear, during the surgery (2, 3, 6). It doesn’t harm the cat, and it is clearly visible even from some distance. Alternatively, vets may put a small tattoo on the abdomen (12, 13) or a v-shaped notch in the side of the ear.

After cats recover from their surgery, they are returned to the site where they were captured so that they can resume their lives without making any more kittens. A caregiver may feed and keep an eye on the community cats, but they will continue to live mostly apart from humans and be happy to do so. Not all community cats are feral, however, so not every cat that is trapped in a TNR program will be returned. Kittens and friendly adults go to the clinic like the others, but then they are adopted out (1, 5, 9). Kittens should be left with their mothers until they are weaned if at all possible.

Advantages of TNR

…For the Cats

Sterilizing community cats has big benefits for their health. She-cats are spared the physical stress and dangers of repeated pregnancies (1, 5). Cats of both sexes have drastically lower risks of reproductive cancers (1, 3). Research has demonstrated that sterilized community cats gain weight and live longer lives, too (1, 3, 5). A study at the University of Florida found that 83% of the cats in TNR-managed colonies on campus had been in the colony for at least six years (1, 5, 7).

Eartipped brown tabby cat
Sterilized cats are eartipped to identify them – Image by Lmusser22 from Pixabay

Without the drive to mate, cats fight less and don’t wander as far, so they suffer fewer injuries (1, 3, 5). And while a single dose of a vaccine usually doesn’t last forever, the vaccination(s) cats receive through TNR are more protection than they would have otherwise had from infectious diseases (1).

…For the Community

Some people are really not happy to share their space with community cats. Fortunately, sterilized cats make better neighbors. They don’t yowl, fight, and spray nearly as much as intact cats do, and this can take care of a lot of peoples’ complaints with them (1, 3, 5, 8, 9, 11). Any problems that continue will dwindle over time as the community cat population shrinks.

Fewer community cats and fewer complaints about them leads to lower rates of shelter admission (1, 5, 8, 9-11, 13). San Jose, California Animal Control reported a decrease of 29.1% in their intake of cats and kittens after fours years of a citywide TNR program (6). Albuquerque, New Mexico saw a decrease of 43.5% in three years (6). This decreases the number of cats euthanized in shelters (1, 9-11). Many community cats that enter shelters are euthanized because they are not adoptable. About half of shelter workers who have to euthanize animals develop post-traumatic stress disorder (13). Not euthanizing healthy animals is better for everyone.

Fewer cats in the shelters also decreases their operating costs (1). But shelters are not the only ones that can save money as a result of TNR. The outdated catch-and-kill strategy hemorrhages taxpayer dollars to little or no effect (1, 5). As previously discussed, it just doesn’t work, but it does cost money. In the words of Mark Kumpf, former president of the National Animal Control Association, “The cost for picking up and simply euthanizing and disposing of animals is horrendous, in both the philosophical and the economic sense” (5).

The extent of the monetary cost depends on the animal control department. Similarly, how much can be saved depends on the TNR program and how it is run. In general, TNR programs appeal to volunteers and get progressively less labor-intensive over time (5). Any TNR program will save money that way.

Does It Really Work?

Research has demonstrated that TNR can, in fact, do all that is aims to, in a variety of communities at that. I’ve thrown some statistics at you already, but here’s a few more:

  • A TNR program that began in Newburyport, Massachuchetts in 1992 with about 300 cats essentially ended 17 years later when there were no cats left on the waterfront. The last cat, Zorro, died in December of 2009 at an estimated age of 16. No community cats have been seen at the waterfront since [as of interview date]. (10)
  • An 11-year study at the University of Florida observed community cats on campus. At the end of the study, the population had decreased by 66% and no new kittens had been seen since the fifth year. (7)
  • A Florida study conducted TNR for two years in one zip code, and then compared shelter intake from that zip code to the rest of the county. At the end of the study period, the shelters where there had not been any TNR had 3.5 times more cats admitted and 17.5 times more euthanized. (8).
  • A study of TNR efforts in Chicago, Illinois found that the average reduction in colony population was 54% over nine years. This was right after the city of Chicago changed its stance to support TNR. (11)
  • The University of New South Wales in Sydney, Australia, began a TNR campaign on campus in August, 2008. By September, 2017, the cat population had been reduced by 78%, and the 15 remaining cats were all sterilized. (12)
  • A survey of Australian TNR participants found that a median 69% of the cats in respondents’ colonies were sterilized. The median reduction in colony size was 31% over a median of 2.2 years of TNR. (13)

Criticisms of TNR

That was just a sampling of the studies supporting TNR. There have been a couple which studied a location where TNR was not successful, but the vast majority have given the method the thumbs-up. Many organizations champion TNR, including the American Society for the Protection of Animals, Humane Society of the United States, Association of Shelter Veterinarians, and American Association of Feline Practitioners. But TNR does have its opponents.

Community cats under tree
Image by Dimitris Vetsikas from Pixabay

Many of these opponents are conservationists. They are opposed to returning community cats to their territories because community cats hunt endangered birds and other wildlife (2, 4, 6). And that’s true, cats do hunt wildlife, and they are essentially an invasive species. As a domestic animal, they really have no natural habitat, although they may sometimes be considered naturalized in an environment. However, cats are far from the biggest threat to at-risk wildlife. Habitat loss is considered the worst offender by a wide margin (5, 6). Additionally, TNR is effective at reducing the population of community cats, so fewer birds and other prey animals will be hunted in future (5, 6).

Another concern is disease. Community cats can carry diseases that pet cats, humans, or other animals could catch, such as rabies and toxoplasmosis (2, 5, 6). This is certainly possible, but the Centers for Disease Control say that humans are very unlikely to get a disease from a cat (5, 6). The CDC reports only two cases of rabies transmitted from cat to human since 1960, and tells us that we would be more likely to get toxoplasmosis from eating raw meat or even gardening (5, 6). Pet cats or other animals are more at risk. However, TNR programs that vaccinate cats for common illnesses and treat them for any parasites they already have can go a long way toward reducing the disease burden in the community cat population.

Some claim that it is not humane to return community cats to their territory (2, 6). Certainly, life outdoors can be harsh. But what would be the alternative? Killing the cats can’t possibly be the more humane option unless they’re terminally ill or injured. Opponents of TNR do have some other suggestions.

A popular one is feeding bans (2, 4). A feeding ban is a law that makes it illegal to feed community cats. Nowhere that supported this solution spelled out why a feeding ban would be better, but I can only assume the idea is to drive cats away from people by withholding food, decrease the population by starving them, or both. Just because it’s illegal doesn’t mean people won’t feed cats, however (5). Even if they did, cats are resourceful. Some would starve, but many more would figure out another way to survive. If the goal is to protect wildlife, a feeding ban certainly wouldn’t help, because cats would only hunt a lot more wildlife and be driven to compete with wild predators.

Another suggestion is to criminalize abandoning cats or otherwise discourage people from abandoning their cats (2, 5). While I wish people didn’t abandon animals, they’re going to no matter what. They always have. People who argue that maintaining managed cat colonies through TNR encourages people to abandon their cats there are really missing the point (5). At any rate, even if no one ever abandoned a cat again, that leaves innumerable cats living on their own already that any action against future abandonment would no address.

There is no such thing as a perfect solution with a problem this complex. However, no one has found a better way than TNR for dealing with community cats humanely and efficiently. Even then, some programs work better than others. Everyone is learning as they go. TNR is still pretty new, but what a difference it has already made.

Ways to Get Involved

TNR can be done as an individual or with a group. Try checking with local animal shelters to see if they know of any groups doing TNR in your area. If you’re going it alone or with a few friends, make sure you’re completely prepared before you start. Alley Cat Allies, the organization that brought TNR to the United States, has excellent online resources, as do Best Friends Animal Society and Neighborhood Cats.

Step-by-Step Overview of TNR by Alley Cat Allies

Works Cited

  1. Alley Cat Allies. (2011). Why trap-neuter-return feral cats? The case for TNR. https://www.alleycat.org/resources/why-trap-neuter-return-feral-cats-the-case-for-tnr/
  2. American Bird Conservancy. (2015). Trap, neuter, release: The wrong solution to a tragic problem. https://abcbirds.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/TNR_the-wrong-solution2011.pdf
  3. American Society for the Protection of Animals. (n.d.). A closer look at community cats. https://www.aspca.org/animal-homelessness/shelter-intake-and-surrender/closer-look-community-cats
  4. Barrows, P. L. (2004). Professional, ethical, and legal dilemmas of trap-neuter-release. American Veterinary Medical Association, 225(9), 1365-1369. https://doi.org/10.2460/javma.2004.225.1365
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Published February 21, 2021