Category: Cat Care

Cat Care

Should cats be indoors or outdoors?

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Meredith Hemphill

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Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Black cat laying outdoors in daisies
Photo by Lisa Fotios from Pexels

Today we broach one of the great cat debates. Cat people are usually united by their love of felines, but there are a few topics that can tear us apart. This is one of them. Perhaps this is due to the changing relationship between humans and cats, something that has continued to evolve ever since cats domesticated themselves. It used to be the case that almost no one had indoor-only cats. However, as humans became more urban and cats came to be seen more as companions, more people have chosen to bring cats inside with them. Some, however, still think cats belong entirely or partly outdoors. We all want to think that we are doing the best thing for our pets, but is there a right and wrong answer here?

Veterinarians and animal welfare agencies, without exception as far as I can tell, recommend keeping cats indoors. Before anyone starts to leave an angry comment, this is not to say that there’s no benefit to cats being outdoors. In fact, those who say that cats belong in nature are correct, cats evolved to live outside. Of course, so did humans, but that is beside the point. Being outside is good for cats’ mental health because it provides them with a wealth of stimulation. They are able to exercise, hunt, socialize with other cats, solve problems, and generally be a cat the way they were meant to be. So, yes, cats do enjoy being outside, and in some ways it is good for them. But it is not without reason that experts recommend making our feline companions indoor-only.

The average lifespan of an indoor cat is about fifteen years, but for outdoor cats it’s only two to five years. There are a lot of dangers that cats face in the big, mean world, regardless of the setting. Cars are a major killer of cats. Cats may learn over time to avoid cars, if they are lucky enough, but they do not instinctively know to be careful of them. Cats are even injured and killed when they crawl inside cars for shelter and don’t have time to escape when the car turns on.

They also in danger from a number of predatory animals including hawks, foxes, coyotes, bears, alligators, and many others, depending upon the environment. Dogs, whether pets or strays, kill cats, and cats get into dangerous fights with each other. Certainly, cats have some natural defenses against predators and other cats, but they can’t always emerge victorious. What chance has a cat against an alligator? And even if the cat is able to fight off the predator or aggressor, it may still be seriously injured.

Cats also face the threat of disease outside. They may pick up infectious diseases from contact with other cats, such as Feline Immunodificiency Virus (FIV, the cat equivalent of HIV), Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV), panleukopenia, and upper respiratory pathogens. FIV can be fatal, and there is no vaccination or cure. The only way to prevent it is to prevent infection by preventing contact with infected cats. There are lots of parasites out there, too, some of which can be passed to humans and carry other diseases. Cats may also come into contact with toxic plants or chemicals that could sicken or kill them if ingested. Many cats like to eat plants, and there are a whole host of toxic plants out there, especially in gardens. Antifreeze apparently has a pleasant taste, and cats have been known to eat it if they find it lying around.

Then, of course, there are the human dangers. There’s no telling what someone might do to your cat if you aren’t there. On the benign side of things, cats might be mistaken for strays and taken in to an animal shelter. Then there are those whose intentions are not to be admired. Animal cruelty is real and it happens. Friendly, free-roaming animals are easy targets. I won’t go into the grisly details of the horrible things people have been known to do to cats. Suffice it to say that two of the more common include shooting them with arrows and bb guns. Cats are also used as bait animals in dog-fighting, although it’s hard to say how often free-roaming pets are stolen for this purpose because there is simply so little data.

With all that being said, there are some disadvantages to keeping cats strictly indoors. Without the stimulation of being outside, they may become bored or even anxious or depressed. They can start to be very dependent on their human, or they might develop behavioral problems such as destructive tendencies (scratching, chewing, etc.), eliminating outside the litter box, or aggression. Individual cats can exhibit any number of signs of stress as a result of not being to act out all their natural behaviors. So, what can we do? It’s too dangerous outside and too boring and confining inside. There are a few ways to compromise.

First, the indoors doesn’t have to be so boring. Cats need lots of places to climb and hide, and lots of surfaces to scratch. Every cat has their own preferences in all of these regards, so you may have to do some experimenting. A good cat tree is always a place to start. Make sure the cat tree has a wide, stable base and any scratching posts are tall enough for your cat to stretch out to their full length on. Many cat trees don’t meet these requirements, thus are unlikely to see much use.

Orange and white cat playing with toy
Bring the outdoors in with toys! – Image by DarkWorkX from Pixabay

Toys are also key. Not every cat likes the same kind of toy because not every cat is the same kind of hunter. Most cats will need some toys they can play with on their own as well as interactive toys for you to play with them. Interactive toys allow you to really simulate a hunt for your cat. This especially helps them to exercise and feel like they’re out in the wild.

Another thing you can do is “cat TV.” We know that cats like to watch the great outdoors out the window. Putting a bird feeder or something similar outside the window to make the view more interesting is a good idea. It also helps to make sure that your cat has a good perch by the window(s) so they can watch in comfort. You wouldn’t want to watch TV sitting on a narrow windowsill, would you? If you don’t have windows, don’t have much of a cat-friendly view, or just want to try other options, there are videos of literal TV for cats that you can put on. Or you can try making a terrarium, aquarium, or paludarium (that’s a combination of both) with some small animals that they would like to watch. Just be careful that they can’t knock it over!

If you would like to let your cat really experience the outdoors, well, outdoors, you still can. There are a few options that allow you to keep your cat safe while also letting them enjoy the nature. One is to harness train your cat so you can take them on walks. That may sound like asking for a clawing, but it doesn’t have to be. See my previous article for a how-to on walking your cat.

If you or your cat don’t care for that idea, however, don’t fret. If you have a suitable yard, there are cat-proof fences designed to keep your cat from jumping out. Cats will not jump if the fence has a top that is angled above their heads sharply enough. They know better than to bump their heads! There are products that can be attached to an existing fence as well as entire fencing panels built this way. Or you can do it yourself, if you’re handy. Just make sure to supervise your cat while they’re out in your yard in case something else gets in.

Perhaps the most flexible option is a catio (cat patio). These are a wide variety of cat enclosures that allow cats to be outside while still being enclosed. If you already have a screened-in porch, that qualifies. For everyone else, there are ready-made catios that you can buy which accommodate a variety of homes. Some are meant to attach to apartment windows or to sit on balconies or porches. Others are meant to sit in yards or attach to houses via a cat door.

There is also the option to build one yourself or have one built for you. The catio concept is very customizable to the needs of you and your cat. Just make sure that it is sturdy enough to withstand your cat from the inside, especially if they are an escape artist or a screen climber, and any predators or other cats from the outside. If you want to put plants in your catio, make sure they are safe for cats.

A custom-built catio

If you still choose to keep your cat outdoors, please do so responsibly. Bring your cat inside or at least into some sort of structure at night and during extreme weather. Feeding your cat when you want it to come in will make sure it does so. Take your cat to the vet regularly and keep it up to date on its vaccinations. Maintain flea, tick, and heartworm medication, and have your cat de-wormed regularly. Make sure your cat wears a collar with rabies tags and an ID tag with your contact information. However, the collar needs to be a breakaway collar. Cats are prone to getting their collars caught on things, and other collars can cause them to get trapped or suffocate. Given that the collar may come off, it is important to also have your cat microchipped.

It should go without saying, but you absolutely need to have your cat spayed or neutered if they are going to be an outdoor cat. Not only will this prevent overpopulation, but if you have a she-cat this will save you from unwanted kittens and pregnancy-associated health problems. Furthermore, intact cats of either sex wander farther and get into more fights, especially toms.

An important note: if your cat is declawed, they cannot be an outdoor cat. They can still have supervised outdoor time, but they cannot be allowed to free-roam. Declawed cats can’t defend themselves well at all and are in much greater danger than cats with all their defenses in place.

So, do cats belong outside? Well, yes, they do, a biopsychological sense. But as pet parents we have committed to taking the best care of our cats we can. So we need to keep them safe, in our homes. But that doesn’t mean cats should be bored, or even that they can never be outside. We probably should take them outside, but as their guardians it is our responsibility to go outside with them and make sure no danger befalls them. That is the distinction between an outdoor cat and an indoor cat that is momentarily outdoors. Our furry friends deserve the best lives we can give them, both long and happy. A rewarding indoor life with supervised outdoor time is the way to give them the best of both worlds.

Published May 30, 2020

Updated December 5, 2020

Cat Care

Should cats drink milk?

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Meredith Hemphill

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Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Two tabby cats drinking saucer of milk
Image by FotoRieth from Pixabay

I was recently watching a YouTube video–one of those funny cat compilations, you know the type. One of the clips included a cat being offered milk, and oh boy, did the comments go crazy. Everyone had an opinion about whether cats should drink milk or not. I’ve always heard that cats are lactose intolerant and shouldn’t have milk, but there were lots of people who disagreed. Certainly YouTube comment sections are not the place to obtain scientific information, but it sparked my curiosity. I had no idea there was so much debate about this topic, and now I wanted to find out the answer for myself.

Cats certainly seem to like milk. My parents have had two infamous ice cream thieves. And cats have been portrayed in media of all kinds happily lapping from a saucer of milk, for at least two hundred years and possibly going back to the Middle Ages, but I had some trouble verifying the dates of older images. Why do cats like milk so much, or are we imagining it?

It’s not an illusion. Dairy farmers noticed a long time ago that cats would get very excited about fresh cow’s milk. Cats are particularly fond of the cream that rises to the top of the fresh milk, as cats are naturally drawn to fatty foods that would help them survive in the wild where food is not guaranteed, and cream is certainly high in fat. It has also been demonstrated that cats relax while lapping milk (1), perhaps because it recalls pleasant maternal memories.

Brown and white calf
Intended recipient of cow’s milk – Photo by Couleur on Pexels

Unfortunately, the fact that cats like milk doesn’t mean they should drink it. Kittens drink their mother’s milk in order to gain vital nutrients and antibodies until they begin weaning. The milk of mammals contains a sugar called lactose, and infants produce an enzyme called lactase to break down this sugar which provides them with important energy for their development. As the kittens begin to eat solid food and less of their mother’s milk, they slowly stop producing lactase. The same is true of other mammals, including humans, but an unusual percentage of humans continue to produce enough lactase to digest dairy into adulthood. Cats, like other mammals, usually don’t. This means that most cats are lactose intolerant as adults.

Cats may enjoy milk or other dairy products while they’re eating them, but the majority who are lactose intolerant will pay for it later with gastrointestinal upsets. The undigested lactose can’t be absorbed into the bloodstream, so it moves straight through the intestines, drawing water with it and causing loose stools or diarrhea. They may also experience vomiting, and the action of intestinal bacteria fermenting the lactose can cause gas and bloating. Even cats that are not lactose intolerant may have dairy allergies that can also cause gastrointestinal and/or skin problems (2). Not the recipe for a happy cat, or a happy cat parent, for that matter.

Not all cats have this problem. There are some that can handle milk without an issue. Others are fine with small amounts from time to time but react negatively if given more. Regardless, it’s important to note that cow’s milk is not nutritious for cats even if they can tolerate it. It’s essentially junk food, high in calories but devoid of the protein and other nutrients that cats need. Obesity is a significant problem among pet cats. Whole milk especially poses a risk because it has so much fat. A well-nourished cat doesn’t need all that fat.

White goat
Goat’s milk can be a good treat for some cats – Photo by Ellie Cash on Unsplash

The healthiest cat treats are plain meat, cooked if you’re worried about contamination (which would be fair). Nutritious commercial treats can also be fine in moderation. However, if your cat is just crazy about milk, there are some options that are better for your cat. If you already know that your cat can tolerate lactose, then small amounts (think a teaspoon or so) of low-fat or skim milk as an occasional treat could be fine. Lower-lactose products such as plain yogurt or goat’s milk might also do. Goat’s milk has more vitamins and minerals than cow’s milk and contains the amino acid taurine, which cats require, so there’s a point in favor of the goats.

I have seen some claims that raw (unpasteurized) milk is preferable because the nutrients and enzymes present in the milk have not been heat-killed. I have also seen some information which suggests that it might be dangerous due to the presence of potentially harmful live microorganisms. Personally, I would err on the side of caution and choose pasteurized, but you can make your own decisions in the regard. Lactose-free milk products for humans are available, as well as “cat milk” products specially formulated for cats. They vary, but are generally lactose-free, low-fat, and more nutritious for cats. They are available online and at many pet stores. In any case, milk of whatever sort should be given only as a treat to adult cats, in small amounts.

Milk alternatives that should not be used include plant milks such as soy milk, almond milk, etc. Cats are carnivores and are not well-equipped to digest the carbohydrates in plants. Plant milks are often sweetened, and cats do not need all that sugar, either. Plus, it isn’t uncommon for cats to have allergies to soy.

In settling a great YouTube debate, it seems that cats should generally not drink milk, but there are cats who can handle it or other kinds of milk that cats can have. As long as it’s given as a treat, rather than used as a major part of their diet, a little dairy or an appropriate alternative can be okay. I would rather Rosie stayed out of my ice cream bowl, however.

Note: Kittens should never be given cow’s milk or any kind of alternative. They should only receive their mother’s milk or a kitten formula, if a mother isn’t available, until they are old enough for weaning.

Works Cited

  1. Cervantes, M., Ruelas, R., and Beyer, C. (1983). Serotonergic influences on EEG synchronization induced by milk drinking in the cat. Pharmacology Biochemistry and Behavior, 18(6), 851-55. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0091-3057(83)80004-5
  2. Guilford, W.G., et al. (2001). Food sensitivity in cats with chronic idiopathic gastrointestinal problems. Journal of Veterinary Internal Medicine, 15(1), 7-13. DOI: 10.1892/0891-6640(2001)015<0007:fsicwc>2.3.co;2
  3. Kornreich, B.G. (2020, May 2). Dear Elizabeth: Is feeding cats milk safe for your kitty? [Email newsletter] Cornell Feline Health Center.

Published on May 8, 2020

Updated January 2, 2021

Cat Care

Leash Training for Cats

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Meredith Hemphill

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Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

White cat on leash
Photo by Dids from Pexels

Though still unusual, it has become more common these days to see someone walking their cat on a leash. Some may think the entire concept is absurd, but the evidence that it can be done is there for all to see. The question is, how? Just getting most cats into their crates is a feat not for the faint of heart. What kind of sorcery is required to wrestle one into a harness? No sorcery, but it does involve some patience and a willingness to meet your cat where they’re at.

Not all cats will want to be walked. Knowing your cat’s personality will give you a good idea how they will feel about the subject. A cat that is always hanging around outside-facing doors, looking out windows, and trying to escape when you open the door is a cat that’s interested in the outdoors. There’s a good chance that they’ll enjoy a chance to explore. Cats that are afraid of outside doors, are very stressed by change, or are very timid in general may not want to be walked. You could still try it. You might be surprised and find out that going on a walk gives your cat the confidence boost they needed. But just don’t get your hopes up.

That being said, most cats are not thrilled about the prospect of being walked when it is first presented. Cats generally do not like unfamiliar experiences, and this certainly qualifies. However, if they are eased into it slowly, some cats come to be very enthusiastic about being walked.

Proper Preparation

Before attempting to walk your cat, make sure that they are up to date on their vaccinations, including Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV). Indoor cats are usually not at risk for FeLV, but a cat on a walk might catch it from contact with another cat. Also make sure that your cat stays current on flea, tick, heartworm, and intestinal worm preventatives, as these parasites are much more likely to be encountered outdoors.

Make sure that your cat has a collar with ID tags to wear on walks in case the two of you become separated. It’s a good idea to have your cat microchipped, too. If your cat was microchipped a while ago, make sure that the information is up to date. Cat collars are typically break-away, meaning that the latch will come undone if the cat gets the collar caught on something. This is a good thing, given the kinds of places cats can get into. Break-away collars prevent entrapment or suffocation. But if the only way your cat can be traced back to you is the ID tag on their collar, these collars may not be much help in reuniting you.

Ginger tabby wearing harness with bowtie
Some harnesses can be very stylish – Photo by Amber Kipp on Unsplash

With all that accomplished, it’s time to buy a harness and leash for your cat. There are a variety of products made specifically for cats, as well as some small dog harnesses that can work well. It is important to use a harness and not just a leash that clips to your cat’s collar, partially because of the break-away collar issue mentioned above. Also, cats can sometimes slip out of their collars, and a harness distributes pressure more comfortably across a cat’s chest instead of in one place against their throat.

There are different types of harnesses available. Some use adjustable straps and others are like a fabric vest. Both types have their merits and pitfalls. The vest type can be easier to put on, but may not fit well on chubby or long-haired cats. The strap kind allows for more adjustment but may slip off of svelte or short-haired cats. Your cat may also have their own preference.

Leashes can also vary. A very long leash can put you too far away from your cat should any threat arise, like someone walking a dog. Retractable leashes tend to present the same problem, allowing you to put too much distance between you and your cat. There are leashes for cats which are somewhat flexible. They have a section of coiled fabric which allows your cat to jump without the leash jerking them back. Those are my personal favorite, but I have seen no expert mandate requiring such a product. As long as you allow your cat enough slack on the leash, the flexible lead probably isn’t a necessity.

Getting Ready to Walk

The best time to start training a cat to walk is when they’re a kitten, but it’s never too late. The process is likely to take longer with adult cats, but it will be a gradual matter regardless. Let your cat set the pace and never force them to walk. If you have clicker trained your cat, that will come in very much in handy during this process.

The first step is getting your cat used to the harness. Begin by placing the harness out in the open where your cat can investigate it. Reward your cat with a treat for sniffing or otherwise showing interest in the harness to build a positive association. If your cat is clicker trained, then click and treat when your cat shows interest. Do this over the course of as many days as it takes for your cat to become used to the harness being in their space, then try draping the harness over your cat. Reward your cat for tolerating the harness. When your cat isn’t bothered by having the harness laid on top of them, you can try putting them into the harness.

You want to make it the most positive experience possible, although your cat probably won’t like it the first time or even the first several times. Give your cat their favorite treats after the harness is on, and be gentle and soothing while getting your cat into the contraption. Then, let your kitty walk around in the harness for a while. Some cats will just freeze up when put into a harness, but eventually they will get used to the feeling. You can try playing with your cat while they wear it if they’re willing. Once they’ve relaxed, you can remove the harness and repeat tomorrow, and the next day, and the next, until your cat is comfortable with putting on and wearing the harness.

How to Put a Strap-Style Harness on a Cat

Next, start attaching the leash when you put your cat in the harness, but don’t hold the leash. Just let your cat walk around with the leash dragging behind them. Do watch to make sure they don’t get the leash caught on anything. The goal is to accustom your cat to the feeling of something else on their body. Once they’re comfortable with this stage, start walking your cat around the house. Hold the leash and let your cat lead you. Treat them often to keep building that positive association. If your cat seems comfortable, you can practice directing them. Only ever use gentle corrections on the leash to direct your cat. Hard tugs on the leash to tell them where to go can make cats averse to the entire activity of walking.

Into the Wild

When your cat is okay with being walked inside, you are finally ready to venture outside. The first few times, you may just want to open the door and sit on the stoop with your cat. It depends on their personality, but for many cats those first forays into the outdoors can be scary. Even if your cat wants to explore outside, they may need a little time to build up their courage. It’s a good idea to walk your cat inside a safe, enclosed yard at first, if at all possible.

However quickly your cat takes to the great outdoors, never forget that a cat is not a dog. Therefore walking a cat is not like walking a dog. Cats tend to go a much more leisurely pace and stop to investigate objects or change course much more often. Walking a cat is really more like being walked by a cat, except you are responsible for correcting your cat if they start to go somewhere unsafe. Always look out for other animals as well as any plants that might be toxic for your cat to consume. Flower beds can be deadly, especially if they have lilies of any kind. Even the pollen of lilies can cause fatal kidney failure in cats if it gets on their fur and they lick it off.

White and orange cat on a leash on sofa
Train your cat to walk indoors before venturing outside – Photo by Taylor Deas-Melesh on Unsplash

As long as you are there to keep your cat safe, the stimulation offered by the outdoors can be delightful for many cats. It engages their brains and bodies, providing them with new problems to solve, things to see and smell, and more exercise than can typically be afforded indoors. We should always strive to provide the best enrichment inside that we can. Unfortunately, we can never perfectly emulate the dynamic and complex natural environment. Taking cats on walks provides them with a safe way to enjoy the perks of the outdoors.

Since cats thrive on routine, it’s best to establish a daily walking plan for your cat. Part of this is having a signal to let your cat know that it’s walk time. It’s also a good idea to put the harness and leash on in the same place every day. It’s best not to do this near the door, or your cat might start to associate the door with the fun of going outside and try to dart out every time you open it.

What if you try this entire process, and your cat never takes to it? Maybe they never get used to the harness, or no matter how carefully you introduce them to the outdoors they are always afraid. There are a lot of points where your cat might say “no.” You need to respect their decision if they do. Not every cat will want to be walked. If you think your cat might still benefit from going outside, then there are alternatives.

Cat strollers and backpacks allow you to walk your cat without a leash, and catios can be built in any outdoor space your home might have. Catios allow your cat access to the outside without straying from their home. For a more timid cat, a catio may be the better option. It’s all a matter of finding out what your cat wants. I will say that the least expensive of these options is the harness and leash, and it helps both you and your cat form an exercise routine, so it’s a good place to start.

Published May 3, 2020

Updated January 8, 2021

Cat Care

Feline Leukemia Virus (FelV)

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Meredith Hemphill

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Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

In memory of Simba

Feline leukemia virus (FelV) is a fatal virus afflicting cats. One of the most common infectious diseases among cats, FelV is present in approximately 2% of cats in the United States and 3% in Canada (1). It is the leading cause of cancer in cats and can cause a host of other health problems as well. As such, it is imperative that cat people of all stripes be aware of this dangerous disease and how to prevent and cope with it.

Pale ginger tabby cat sitting on carpet
Simba, a FelV+ cat – Photo by Emma Sullivan

When a cat is infected with FelV, virus particles are shed in their saliva, urine, feces, and nasal secretions. Queens also shed the virus in their milk. Cats can become infected by fighting with and being bitten by an infected cat, engaging in grooming, or, more rarely, through sharing a litterbox or food/water dish. Kittens can be infected by their mothers both before and after birth. The virus cannot survive more than a few hours outside of its host, so cat-to-cat contact is usually required. Kittens are more vulnerable to infection than adult cats, as their immune systems are not fully developed. Cats with other illnesses are also at greater risk. However, even healthy adults can be infected, especially with repeated, prolonged exposure.

Veterinarian giving injection to a kitten
No kitten likes being poked with a needle, but FelV vaccines save lives – Image by skeeze from Pixabay

There is a FelV vaccine which has helped to reduce the prevalence of FelV over the past few decades. The American Association of Feline Practitioners recommends that all kittens receive the vaccine and the one-year booster, but considers it optional for indoor-only adult cats without other risk factors (2). The vaccine is recommended for at-risk adult cats, namely those with access to the outdoors, living with a known FelV+ cat, or living in a multi-cat household where the FelV status of all cats is not known (2). There are no major risks associated with the vaccine (2). Any cat may have an allergic reaction to any vaccine, so it’s best to keep on eye on them for a few hours afterwards.

The FelV vaccine has been refined over the years for increased effectiveness, but no vaccine is 100% effective, so the best strategy is to prevent exposure. Keeping cats indoors will make sure they avoid infected individuals outside. If you do allow your cat outside, supervising them or containing them can also do the trick. Walking them on a leash would count as both. Inside, it is important to separate FelV+ and uninfected cats. Ideally, FelV+ cats should be only cats or should live exclusively with other FelV+ cats so that there is no one to infect. Whenever bringing a new cat into the home, have your veterinarian test for FelV so that there are no surprises. If the new cat tests positive, it is recommended to separate them from your uninfected cats until you decide what to do next.

It can be difficult or impossible to tell by observing a cat whether they have FelV. FelV causes disease progressively and affects individuals differently, so a cat may show few or no symptoms early in their infection. However, there are some signs to keep an eye out for:

  • Poor coat condition
  • Pale gums, yellow color around mouth and whites of eyes (jaundice)
  • Diarrhea
  • Weight loss/poor appetite
  • Lethargy
  • Recurring infections
  • Seizures, behavior changes, or other neurological symptoms
Pale ginger tabby cat getting his belly rubbed
Simba enjoying some belly rubs – Photo by Emma Sullivan

FelV gradually causes a cats immune system to deteriorate over time, leading to secondary infections and sometimes blood cancers. Cats may become anemic. Research continues, but so far there is still no cure for FelV. A veterinarian will instead treat the effects of FelV, the other diseases and symptoms it causes. The disease, or rather the problems it causes, will eventually prove fatal, but an infected cat can lead a normal life in the meantime. The median lifespan of a cat after diagnosis with FelV is 2.5 years, which may not seem long to us, but it is quite a chunk of time to a cat, and any time that they are able to enjoy is worth it if we are able to give it to them.

Works Cited

  1. Levy, J.K., et al. (2006). Seroprevalence of feline leukemia virus and feline immunodeficiency virus infection among cats in North America and risk factors for seropositivity. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, 228(3), 371–376. DOI: 10.2460/javma.228.3.371.
  2. Scherk, M.A., et al. (2013). Disease information fact sheet: Feline leukemia virus. Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery, 15, supplementary file. PDF

Published March 12, 2020

Updated April 23, 2020

Cat Care

Beware of These Bouquets

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Meredith Hemphill

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Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Fluffy white and tan cat with red rose
Are your favorite romantic flowers safe for your kitty? – Photo by Irene Lasus from Pexels

My father used to get flowers for my mother for Valentine’s Day–and all the other flowery occasions–almost every time. Eventually, Mom forbade him to get her flowers ever again. It wasn’t that she disliked getting them, quite the contrary, but every time Dad gave her flowers our calico cat, Cara, would eat them the first chance she got. She had a particular penchant for Baby’s Breath. Mom got tired of cleaning regurgitated vegetation out of the carpet, and it didn’t do much good for Dad to give her a bouquet only for her to hide it in the laundry room. So, no more flowers.

Cara lived a long, healthy life without suffering any significant ill effects from her flower-munching habit, but some of the flowers popular in floral arrangements can be quite dangerous to cats. If you plan to gift flowers to a loved one with a cat this Valentine’s Day (or to yourself), make sure to avoid these plants in the bouquet.

Lilies: These big, showy flowers come in a wide array of colors, so it’s no surprise that they are popular choices for bouquets. However, if you have a cat in the house, it’s best to avoid lilies altogether. Lilies are extremely poisonous to cats. Consuming any part of the plant results in kidney failure and, without prompt intervention, death. This includes Easter Lilies, so if you are fond of those angelic blooms, perhaps invest in a silk replica this spring instead.

Carnations: Pink, white, and red carnations are a common sight around Valentine’s Day, and their fluffy petals might be tempting. Use caution, however. Carnation sap can be irritating to a cat’s skin, and consuming the plant can cause gastrointestinal symptoms (vomiting, diarrhea).

Daisies: Species in the Chrysanthemum genus range in appearance from the common daisy with white petals spayed about a yellow center to the ruffled blooms of mums in their autumnal hues. All, however, are toxic to cats. Symptoms of poisoning include vomiting, diarrhea, excessive salivation, and loss of coordination. Skin irritation is also possible.

Daffodils: Daffodils may look sunny and cheerful, but they can be very toxic to cats, although the bulbs are more toxic than the shoots. Consuming small amounts may only cause a cat to experience vomiting, drooling, and diarrhea. Larger ingestion may result in convulsions, abnormal heart rhythms, and trouble breathing. Where the threshold between milder and more severe symptoms lies will depend on your cat, so if you suspect your cat has consumed any daffodil tissue at all, a trip to the vet is in order.

Gladiolas: Sometimes called “sword lilies,” commercial gladiolas grow large spikes of flowers in lots of bright colors. They are often used in floral arrangements, as they can add both color and height. All parts of the the plant are poisonous. The shoots cause milder symptoms if consumed, including vomiting, diarrhea, drooling, and lethargy. If you are planning to plant gladiolas this spring, you should know that the bulbs are much more poisonous. They cause liver, kidney, and heart symptoms, and possibly death.

Bouquet of pink flowers in ceramic pot
It can be hard to tell what is in a mixed bouquet. Don’t be afraid to ask. – Photo by  Hassan OUAJBIR from Pexels

Irises: Irises are beautiful, unique flowers, usually either blue/purple or yellow in color. They may be easy on the eyes, but they contain irritating chemicals that are not-so-easy on the skin and digestive tract when pets chew on them. A cat that eats an iris may display drooling, lethargy, vomiting, and diarrhea.

Baby’s Breath: You didn’t think I’d forget these, did you? Some sources, including the ASPCA, consider Baby’s Breath non-toxic to cats. The fact that Cara survived consuming it dozens of times with no long-term effects supports the fact that it isn’t a particularly worrisome plant. The prevalence of Baby’s Breath as a filler flower in bouquets, in addition to my personal experience, drives me to bring it up. When cats eat these tiny, white flowers, it can cause vomiting and diarrhea. Your cat will probably be fine, but your carpet may not.

Friendly Flowers

After all that, you may be wondering what kind of flowers you can buy. There are some flowers that are generally regarded as safe for cats. However, keep in mind that florists may use fillers of greenery even in single-flower bouquets. Make sure that every plant is safe for your cat before leaving your pet unsupervised with the arrangement. If you ever want to know whether a plant is toxic to cats (or dogs or horses), the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control website is an excellent resource: https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control. The Pet Poison Helpline is also available 24/7 at 1-855-764-7661. Without further ado, below are several flowers that are safe for your feline friends.

  • Roses
  • Sunflowers
  • Snapdragons
  • Asters
  • Gerber Daisies
  • Zinnias

So if you had a dozen roses in mind for your valentine this year, you’re in luck! They are safe for your valentine’s kitty as well. If your valentine is your cat, cat treats make a great Valentine’s gift too. Love comes in many forms, after all.

If you are ever worried about your cat’s symptoms and/or behavior after they have consumed a plant, even if your research tells you the plant is non-toxic, always take your pet to a veterinarian.

Published February 13, 2020

Updated June 15, 2021