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I was recently forced to switch brands of cat litter because the place I shop stopped carrying the one I had been using for most of Joon’s life. Upon searching for a suitable replacement, I was immediately confronted with the overwhelming variety of cat litter options available on the market today. What I thought would be, at most, a ten minute task took an hour-and-a-half as I fell down a rabbit hole of customer reviews and “best cat litters” rankings. No one deserves to suffer as I have suffered. Instead, I am putting together a handy guide to the types of cat litter and the factors about them that matter.
Material Matters
Before World War II, there was no such thing as cat litter. Most cats were outdoor or indoor-outdoor and didn’t have litterboxes at all (10). Increased urbanization had brought more cats inside as family pets, however, creating a need for the litterbox. So people with indoor cats would fill boxes with sand or ashes and keep them somewhere out-of-the-way (10). It was a solution, but not a great one. Sand and ash do nothing for absorption and little for odor control, and they track everywhere. They are horrible substances when it comes to tracking. My last apartment had a wood-burning fireplace. We never used it, yet the whole apartment was gray by the time we moved out thanks to my cat. But pre-war homeowners had nothing better to use. Those of us who live in the era of cat litter have a man named Edward Lowe to thank.
Ed was a former sailor whose father had a company that manufactured absorbent clay (10). This clay was used to clean up oil and grease spills in wartime factories (10) and civilian garages alike (5). Ed realized those same absorbent properties might work in litterboxes, and he was right (4, 5, 10). In 1947, he registered his invention under the name Kitty Litter (9). Granulated clay litters are still used today, but a lot of other materials have been added since Ed Lowe created the litter market. We’ll start with the old stand-by.
Clay
The original type of cat litter made from granulated clay is still an option. It’s usually the cheapest kind of litter (4, 5). It has good absorption but doesn’t clump, so the whole pan needs to be thrown out and refilled once it’s too soiled (4, 5). That usually takes about a week for a single cat (5, 10). Granulated clay tends to have good odor control (7). These days, many formulations include additives like carbon or plant extracts to boost the odor control properties (7). Granulated clay litter usually doesn’t track too bad (10), but it can be pretty dusty (4, 7).
In the 1980s, biochemist and cat person Thomas Nelson, on a quest for a better litter, discovered that bentonite clay forms clumps when wet (5,10). Now waste could simply be scooped out of the litterbox instead of the whole box being dumped all the time. Thus, clumping clay cat litter was born. Obviously the biggest advantage of clumping clay litter is the ease of clean-up (2-5, 7, 10). Those clumps also lend themselves to greener pet care. Since the box doesn’t need to be completely emptied as often as it does with granulated clay, clumping clay litter causes less waste and is better for the environment (5, 10). It also tends to be better for odor control (5, 10). Bentonite clay is still dusty, though (3, 4, 7). It’s also quite heavy (3, 4).
There are now lightweight formulas to mitigate that last issue (4, 9). These mix bentonite clay with less weighty mineral particles (4). There are also lightweight granulated clay litters that use a different, lighter-weight type of clay (4). These have much the same advantages and disadvantages as the heavier cat litters they are derived from. The bags or boxes are just easier to lift and transport.
Eco-Friendly
This is a new but fast-growing slice of the cat litter market. More people are trying to make earth-conscious decisions, and that includes their pets. Clay litter is not biodegradable (7). So, there has been a push for sustainably sourced cat litter that is. There are a lot of types of eco-friendly litter now, which is great, but we don’t want to be here all day. Instead, I’m just going to summarize them.
- Wheat: Utilizes the starches and enzymes in wheat to clump and control odor. Low-dust and low-tracking. (4, 7)
- Corn: Most common natural cat litter. Utilizes the starches and enzymes in corn to clump and control odor. Low-dust. Can be expensive. (4, 7)
- Pine/wood: May be made from recycled lumber scraps for added eco-friendliness. Comes in pellet, granule, or crushed form. Wood scents aid odor control. Low-dust. Naturally absorbent but does not clump. (4, 7)
- Paper: Recycled paper made into pellets or granules. Highly absorbent and essentially dust-free. Granule form clumps. Lacking on odor control. (4, 7)
- Grass: Made from one of several types of grass. Good clumping and odor control. (4)
- Coconut husk: Made from the outside part of coconuts. Clumps, but not tightly. Low-dust. Natural coconut scent aids odor control. Not the most widely available option. (7)
- Walnut shells: Crushed walnut shells, makes for a dark brown litter. Good clumping and odor control. Low-dust and low-tracking. (4, 7)
I’ve also heard of more niche eco-friendly cat litters made of hemp, peas, green tea, yuca, sugarcane, and even tofu. Some eco-friendly cat litter is compostable or even flushable, although personally I’m not sure flushing cat litter is a great idea (5, 10). Because cats will ingest small amounts of litter while grooming and come into skin contact with their litter, it is important to make sure any cat with allergies is not given an eco-friendly litter containing an ingredient(s) they are allergic to (3). Some of these cat litters contain a lot of different plant ingredients, so check carefully. It’s also important to note that these plant-based litters can attract insects if not stored properly (7).
Silica
Silica is perhaps the latest and greatest when it comes to cat litter. This type of cat litter is made of tiny silica gel crystals or beads (4, 5, 7, 10). Silica is a naturally-occurring mineral that happens to be highly-absorbent (7). These litters are the most expensive, but some say they’re worth the price (3-5, 7). Silica cat litter is famously dust-free and low-tracking (3-5). It has great odor-control (3, 4, 7). It’s so absorptive, it can, in theory, last up to a month for one cat before needing to be changed out (7). It doesn’t clump, though, so that does mean throwing the whole litterbox-full out at the end of the month, or sooner if you have multiple cats (5).
It is the diagnostic cat litters that have really put silica at the front of the pack lately, however. Diagnostic litter contains pH indicators that change color in response to urine (1, 9). By indicating the pH of a cat’s urine, diagnostic litter can be a powerful tool for monitoring kitty’s health (1, 9). Urinary tract infections, kidney disease, and diabetes are some of the diseases that can affect the pH of a cat’s urine (9). For cat’s that have chronic urinary complaints, diagnostic cat litter could be especially helpful (9).
It is important to keep in mind that nothing matters more when choosing a cat litter than what your cat thinks. If something about their litter distresses a cat, there’s a good chance they won’t use it. That said, some cats do not like the sharp, gritty texture of silica crystals under their paws (4, 5, 7).
Clumping or Non-Clumping?
Cats may not go out and buy their litter, but they will make the final decision on whether they use it or not. Their opinion is the most important. So what do they prefer? Certainly their waste would be unlikely to form neat little clumps out in the wild. But that is actually what they prefer. Maybe it’s because the clumping action instantly helps clean up the place. Whatever the reason, cats prefer clumping litter to non-clumping litter (1, 3, 5, 9).
Scented or Unscented?
Some cat litter is scented to cover up the smell of cat waste. Lavender seems to be a favorite, by my observation. This has never appealed to me, but I can see why it might. Who would want to smell cat urine when they could smell flowers? Well, cats disagree. Cats generally don’t like strong smells (1, 3, 7). Even if that scented litter doesn’t smell very strong to you, it might to your cat’s much more sensitive nose. Those scents can linger on your cat after they’ve left the litterbox, too, which they really won’t like (3). Of course, all cats are individuals, so some will tolerate scented litter, but it’s best to avoid it. The litterbox should be scooped/cleaned often enough that it doesn’t reek, anyway.
Special Considerations
Kittens and Trainees
There are some things to keep in mind when deciding what to put in the litterbox of kittens, especially very young ones. Years ago, a magazine article sounded the alarm that clumping cat litter might be dangerous for kittens (10). The concern is that kittens may eat litter because they explore with their mouths, and the clumping litter would clog their intestines (2, 10). Veterinarians don’t see evidence that this is something that really happens much if ever (2, 10). Still, it may be a good idea to stick with non-clumping cat litter while young kittens are getting used to the litter box (2, 10).
When it comes to litterbox training, both kittens and adult cats that haven’t used the box before can benefit from special litter (1, 6). Cat attractant litters and litter additives are formulated to emit a scent that gets cats’ attention and draws them to the litterbox (1, 6). Kerrie McKeon, designated cat expert for the Greater NYC animal rescue Bideawee, swears by this stuff (1). When Bideawee rescued a large group of cats, none of which had ever used a litterbox, she filled their litterboxes with cat attractant litter (1). All of the cats learned how to use a litterbox without the need for medication (1).
Asthma and Respiratory Disease
For cats with asthma or other respiratory ailments, litter dust can be a big problem (1, 9). It’s right in their faces! “Imagine trying to use the bathroom in a dust storm,” explains feline training-and-behavior specialist Cathy Bosley (1). All that dust can be a serious respiratory irritant and cause or worsen an asthma attack (9). There’s probably no such thing as a truly dust-free litter. Still, the goal is minimal dust. Litter specifically meant for cats with respiratory ailments or paper-based litter can be good options (9).
Surgical Recovery
Cats that are recovering from surgery, even a routine spay/neuter, need special consideration. Their litter might not be the first thing to come to mind as part of their aftercare, but it can make a difference. Some types of litter can get stuck and build up on sutures, bandages, wounds, etc. (1, 9). Clumping litter is the primary culprit for this problem (1). Besides being gross, stuck litter can irritate sensitive tissue (1). I can only imagine what kind of infection risk it poses. Pelleted paper cat litter is the gold standard for surgical recovery because it does not stick (1, 9). Cats are not fans of sudden changes, though, so if you have the time before a scheduled surgery, it’s best to start switching litters beforehand.
Declawed Cats
Never, ever declaw a cat. Ever. But maybe you already have a declawed cat. My former roommate and I once adopted an abandoned cat and discovered that all four of his paws had been declawed, which is almost never done. So if you’ve already got a furry friend who is missing the ends of their digits, they may have some issues that other cats don’t. Litterbox trouble is a common one. Declawed cats have chronic foot pain, and the litterbox can make this worse (8). The act of digging can be difficult and/or painful (8). Also, the dust and particles of litter between their toes, as well as grooming it out later, can really hurt declawed cats (8). The right cat litter can alleviate the discomfort, however.
The key is to find the softest cat litter possible (8). Pelleted litter is usually a bad idea–it’s too hard and bumpy (8). Look for lightweight, fine-grained litter (8). Eco-friendly litters can be softest, depending upon what they’re made of and the texture, so maybe give them a try (8). My roommate used a wheat litter for the declawed rescue cat. He was equally happy with the grass litter in Joon’s boxes.
Works Cited
- Adelson, K. I. (2020, October 1). The best cat litter, according to vets. The Strategist. https://nymag.com/strategist/article/best-cat-litter.html
- CatHealth. (n.d.). Best litter for kittens: Is clumping litter safe? CatHealth.com. https://www.cathealth.com/cat-care/safety/2300-best-litter-for-kittens-is-clumping-litter-safe
- CatHealth. (n.d.). What is the best type of cat litter? CatHealth.com. https://www.cathealth.com/cat-care/accessories/2439-what-is-the-best-type-of-cat-litter
- Golon, C. (2014, August 5). The cat owner’s guide to kitty litter options. VetStreet. http://www.vetstreet.com/our-pet-experts/the-cat-owners-guide-to-kitty-litter-options
- Lee, J. A. (2008). Kitty litter: Does it really matter what type I buy? Pet Health Network. https://www.pethealthnetwork.com/cat-health/cat-behavior/kitty-litter-does-it-really-matter-what-type-i-buy
- Nicholas, J. (2021, March 21). Litter box 101: What type of litter is best for your cat. Preventive Vet. https://www.preventivevet.com/cats/what-type-of-litter-is-best-for-your-cat
- Petco. (n.d.). Choosing the best cat litter for your household. https://www.petco.com/content/petco/PetcoStore/en_US/pet-services/resource-center/new-pet/Choosing-the-Right-Cat-Litter.html
- PetMD Editorial. (2019, April 9). What’s the best litter for declawed cats? PetMD. https://www.petmd.com/cat/care/whats-best-litter-declawed-cats
- Robins, S. (2020, January 26). Finding the right litter. Catster. E-newsletter.
- Schultz, J. L. (2003). How to choose a cat litter. Petfinder. https://www.petfinder.com/cats/bringing-a-cat-home/choose-cat-litter/
Published March 28, 2021
