Tag: litter box

Cat Care

How to Travel with Your Cat: Roadtrip Edition

mehshadoweye

Meredith Hemphill

mehshadoweye

Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Tabby cat in suitcase
Photo by Casey Wilson from Pixabay

I am on of those people that leaves my cat at home when I have to leave overnight. I have someone feed her and check in on her, and then I’ll see her when I get home. It’s not that I don’t enjoy her company, but traveling with cats is hard, and Joon doesn’t care for the wonders of modern transportation. Well, in August I have to move to another state, nine hours away by car, and of course Joon is coming with me. I’ve moved with her before, but it was just a quick trip to get there. This will be a new experience for both of us. So I thought it was an excellent opportunity for us all to learn together how to travel with cats.

An Ounce of Preparation

The best way to travel is well-prepared, and the same goes for travel with your cats. There is a lot that you can and should do before you leave to make everything go smoothly. Before anything else, however, ask yourself if you really ought to take kitty with you. If you just going on a short vacation, many cats might prefer to stay home (1, 5, 9). Extended car rides are usually very stressful for cats. If you are going to be gone for months or longer, or you are permanently relocating, then it can be worth it so that your cat doesn’t endure the greater stress of not being able to join you. If you are fortunate enough to have one of the rare few cats that loves going for a drive, then your pet can be a much more frequent travel companion (5, 9).

Gather Your Supplies

What do you need to pack for your cat? To some extent, that depends upon where you are going and for how long, but for any road trip there are certain bases you need to cover:

  • A carrier or crate for riding in the car
  • A litterbox
  • Food, water, and bowls to put them in
  • Veterinary records, including up-to-date rabies tag
  • Your cat’s medications, if applicable
  • A pet first-aid kit

Even for short vacations, you’ll probably also want to bring their cat bed or other cozy thing they like to sleep on and a couple beloved toys. Cats need to scratch, so if you don’t have room to pack a scratching post, I’d recommend you find somewhere for a cardboard or sisal scratching board. Wherever you’re staying probably won’t appreciate your cat leaving their mark on the furniture.

The Cat Carrier

There are lots of options for cat carriers and crates out there. You need to choose one that is large enough for your cat. This means kitty needs to be able to stand, lie down, stretch, and turn around comfortably inside (1, 2, 4, 9). As for the other features of the carrier/crate, it’s up to you and what works best for your situation. There are cat carriers with soft or hard sides. Some are specifically rated for air travel, if that’s also in your plans, and some include a widget that snaps into the seat belt for ease of securing it. Some larger models even include built-in litterboxes. The Sleepypod brand does crash testing on their carriers to maximize their car safety (6). No one carrier or crate has everything. You can do a DIY crate, however, which allows for a lot of customization.

Three kittens in carrier
Make sure your carrier is large enough for your cat (or kittens) – Photo by Gundula Vogel from Pixabay

If your car will accommodate a large dog crate, you can jerry-rig a travel kitty condo (3, 6, 9). A dog crate can be used for one or more cats (9). It fits a travel litterbox inside, which simplifies things (3, 6). And you can incorporate hammocks or shelves to give your cats more space and comfort (6). Just make sure you test out any multilevel additions thoroughly both at home and on test drives before the big day so that you know they will hold up.

The Litterbox

If the drive is more than a couple hours, or you have a senior cat, you will need to give kitty bathroom breaks (9). Cats tend to drink less when they’re stressed, so they may not need it, but give them plenty of opportunity anyway. If your cat is used to eliminating outdoors, it might be best to take them outside on a leash to do their business instead of trying to get them used to a litter box for the first time during the trip (4, 6). If they aren’t leash trained, but you want to do this, start leash training well in advance of your travel date. Introducing too many new things at once is never a good idea.

If you can fit a litterbox inside your cat’s carrier/crate, that is the easiest thing (4, 5, 6, 9). A standard litterbox may be too large, but there are other options. You can buy a travel litterbox. These are typically collapsible and come in carrier-friendly sizes (6). A dish pan may also work (3), or a kitten-sized litterbox. You can also repurpose a cardboard box by cutting it to the right shape and size, lining it with plastic, i.e. a garbage bag, and there you go, a custom disposable litterbox (5)! You can purchase disposable litterboxes as well.

Maybe there is just no way you are going to get a litterbox into the carrier you have. Don’t fret. It’s a little more involved, but there’s a way to work with that. Put out a litterbox for your cat whenever you stop for their bathroom breaks (1, 7). Only do this with the car stopped and all the doors and windows closed! Let your cat out of their carrier (1, 7). When they’re done, either scoop into pet waste bags and throw those out or, if you’re using a disposable litter box, you can bag and throw the whole thing away (1, 7). I recommend you set the litterbox directly in front of the carrier before letting the cat out so they know what to do and don’t instead get sensory overload and hide in some impossible crevasse of your car.

Make Your First Trip Be to the Vet

There are several important reasons to visit the vet before traveling with your cats. One is to make sure that they are healthy enough to travel (7). You would probably know if they weren’t, but it is best to be absolutely certain. If your cat has a chronic illness, you want to make sure it is stable and well-controlled before heading out, too (6). Get any necessary vaccinations up-to-date. Ask for enough medication for the duration of your travel time plus at least several days (6). The same goes for any prescription diet your cat may be on (6). Ask for a print-out of your cat’s medical records (1, 6, 9). You may need these to prove your cat’s vaccination status or to show another vet if your cat needs medical attention.

If you will be crossing state line in the United States, you are required by law to carry a Certificate of Veterinary Inspection, a.k.a. health certificate, for each of your cats (1, 2, 9). This also applies to dogs, if you have those too. You need to get the health certificate from your veterinarian within ten days of your travel date (2). The health certificate means your veterinarian is signing off that your pet doesn’t have any signs of infectious disease and is current on their vaccinations (2). An exam is required for your vet to issue the certificate (2).

If you know that your cat gets motion sickness or is extremely anxious about car rides, you may want to use this opportunity to ask your veterinarian to prescribe medication for the road trip (1, 3, 6). This isn’t the best solution for all cats. Medication can have side effects, so if you can keep your cat calm without it, that’s preferable. There are calming treats and pheromone products that you can try on practice runs. For some cats, though, it’s just not enough. My parents’ cat, Rosenberg, gets so anxious about riding in the car that she starts vomiting and having diarrhea before the car gets to the end of the driveway. Sometimes medication is the only way. Make sure you have it on hand ahead of time and know the dosage, usage, and side effects to watch for.

Cat with head out of car window
Photo by Sunykiller from Pixabay

Acclimate Your Cat

As you are coming up on your road trip, it is in everybody’s best interest to get your cat used to their travel carrier and the car. Start by setting out their carrier and encouraging them to interact with it through treats, toys, or catnip (4, 5). You can even try feeding them near and later inside the carrier (3, 4, 9).

Once your cat is comfortable going in and out of the carrier, practice closing the door with them inside for a short time, then opening it and giving them a treat (3). Do this until your cat no longer seems upset about the closed door. Progress to taking the cat to the car and back before giving them the treat (5, 8). Eventually you can turn the car on for a few minutes with kitty inside (3, 6). Don’t drive anywhere, just turn the car off and take them back inside. Remember not to do this in a closed garage! Carbon monoxide poisoning can happen faster than you might think, especially for a small animal.

Once your cat is okay with the sound of the engine, you can start taking short trips. Start very short, like going to the end of the driveway or parking lot and back (6, 8). Slowly make longer and longer trips up until its time for the big trip (6, 8). Your cat is still probably going to be stressed when the day comes because travel involves more than just the carrier and the car. If parts of the experience seem normal, though, it won’t be nearly as scary.

Head Out on the Highway

When the day of your vacation or move arrives, don’t feed your cat to avoid motion sickness and anxious vomiting (1, 3, 4). If you are leaving late in the day, you could feed breakfast but skip any other meals. Pack everything but the cat first. Make sure you leave room for the carrier. Put a soft lining in the bottom of the cat’s carrier like a pet bed or old towel (1). If you are putting a litterbox inside the carrier, put that in before the cat, too. Do not put a water bowl in the carrier–it will only spill (1). Instead plan to offer your cat water at every stop (1-4).

The very last thing you do should be to put your cat in their carrier and load them in the car (5). Strap the carrier in with the seatbelt (1, 4, 6). If you expect your cat to be anxious, you can cover the carrier with a dark, breathable cloth (4). Cats find this calming. Make sure the air conditioning streams aren’t directly blasting the cat (4). Finally, you’re ready to travel with your cat! Expect some crying at first. Speak to your cat soothingly (6). They should settle down after a while.

Under no circumstances should you let your cat roam the vehicle while it is in motion (1, 6, 8). It’s a matter of safety, for people and pets. Your cat could get under the driver’s feet or obscure their line of sight (1, 6, 8). Whether kitty is panicking or being an angel, they might be a distraction that could cause an accident (6, 8). And should there be an accident for any reason, an unsecured cat is in much more danger of injury or death (1, 6, 8).

If You Need to Leave the Car

I would hope this goes without saying, but pets die in hot cars every year, so I’m going to say it. Never leave your pet in the car unattended. Even if it doesn’t seem especially hot or cold outside, your cat can get dangerously hyperthermic or hypothermic very quickly. Parked cars are especially apt to get hot inside. If you are traveling alone, take your cat with you when you leave the car, leave the car running, or crack the windows and only leave for a few minutes (6). Ideally, travel with at least one other person so someone can stay with the cat with the air conditioning on at all times. The temperature inside your car can increase almost 20 degrees Fahrenheit in just ten minutes. Take this seriously.

How Parked Cars Heat Up So Fast in the Sun

Where to Stay

If you will be staying in a hotel or other commercial lodgings, call and make sure that cats are allowed, even if they claim to be pet-friendly. Sometimes, what they actually mean is “dog-friendly” (4). Or their policies may have changed but their website hasn’t. In addition, some places will only have certain rooms that are pet-friendly, so you will want to double-check that you have been placed in the right kind of room (6). GoPetFriendly.com has a search tool for locating pet-friendly lodging in the United States. Happy trails!

Works Cited

  1. All Feline Hospital. (n.d.). Traveling with your cat. https://www.allfelinehospital.com/traveling-with-your-cat.pml
  2. American Veterinary Medical Association. (n.d.). 11 things you can do to make travel safer for you and your pet. https://www.avma.org/resources/pet-owners/petcare/11-things-you-can-do-make-travel-safer-you-and-your-pet
  3. Hunter, T. and Downing, R. (n.d.). Road trips and car travel with your cat. VCA Hospitals. https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/road-trips-and-car-travel-with-your-cat
  4. Mahar, Autumn. (2019, January 7). Tips for moving a cat long distance. U-Pack. https://www.upack.com/articles/tips-for-moving-a-cat-long-distance
  5. Moore, A. (2001). The kitten owner’s manual. Storey Publishing: North Adams, MA.
  6. Nicholas, J. (2021, May 10). Car travel with cats: Road trips and moving. Preventive Vet. https://www.preventivevet.com/cats/how-to-travel-and-move-with-cats
  7. Richard, M. (2020, May 26). We drove cross-country with our cat (and nobody died). Vagabondish. https://vagabondish.com/how-to-travel-with-cat-in-a-car-long-distance/
  8. Shojai, A. (2019, August 8). 8 tips to help cats enjoy car travel. The Spruce Pets. https://www.thesprucepets.com/help-cats-enjoy-car-travel-553891
  9. Tips on how to move or travel with your cat. (n.d.). PetHub. https://www.pethub.com/article/pet-care/tips-on-how-to-move-or-travel-with-your-cat

Published May 23th, 2021

Updated May 12th, 2023

Cat Care

How to Choose the Best Cat Litter

mehshadoweye

Meredith Hemphill

mehshadoweye

Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Gray cat beside litterbox
Photo by Litter Robot on Unsplash

I was recently forced to switch brands of cat litter because the place I shop stopped carrying the one I had been using for most of Joon’s life. Upon searching for a suitable replacement, I was immediately confronted with the overwhelming variety of cat litter options available on the market today. What I thought would be, at most, a ten minute task took an hour-and-a-half as I fell down a rabbit hole of customer reviews and “best cat litters” rankings. No one deserves to suffer as I have suffered. Instead, I am putting together a handy guide to the types of cat litter and the factors about them that matter.

Material Matters

Before World War II, there was no such thing as cat litter. Most cats were outdoor or indoor-outdoor and didn’t have litterboxes at all (10). Increased urbanization had brought more cats inside as family pets, however, creating a need for the litterbox. So people with indoor cats would fill boxes with sand or ashes and keep them somewhere out-of-the-way (10). It was a solution, but not a great one. Sand and ash do nothing for absorption and little for odor control, and they track everywhere. They are horrible substances when it comes to tracking. My last apartment had a wood-burning fireplace. We never used it, yet the whole apartment was gray by the time we moved out thanks to my cat. But pre-war homeowners had nothing better to use. Those of us who live in the era of cat litter have a man named Edward Lowe to thank.

Ed was a former sailor whose father had a company that manufactured absorbent clay (10). This clay was used to clean up oil and grease spills in wartime factories (10) and civilian garages alike (5). Ed realized those same absorbent properties might work in litterboxes, and he was right (4, 5, 10). In 1947, he registered his invention under the name Kitty Litter (9). Granulated clay litters are still used today, but a lot of other materials have been added since Ed Lowe created the litter market. We’ll start with the old stand-by.

Clay

The original type of cat litter made from granulated clay is still an option. It’s usually the cheapest kind of litter (4, 5). It has good absorption but doesn’t clump, so the whole pan needs to be thrown out and refilled once it’s too soiled (4, 5). That usually takes about a week for a single cat (5, 10). Granulated clay tends to have good odor control (7). These days, many formulations include additives like carbon or plant extracts to boost the odor control properties (7). Granulated clay litter usually doesn’t track too bad (10), but it can be pretty dusty (4, 7).

In the 1980s, biochemist and cat person Thomas Nelson, on a quest for a better litter, discovered that bentonite clay forms clumps when wet (5,10). Now waste could simply be scooped out of the litterbox instead of the whole box being dumped all the time. Thus, clumping clay cat litter was born. Obviously the biggest advantage of clumping clay litter is the ease of clean-up (2-5, 7, 10). Those clumps also lend themselves to greener pet care. Since the box doesn’t need to be completely emptied as often as it does with granulated clay, clumping clay litter causes less waste and is better for the environment (5, 10). It also tends to be better for odor control (5, 10). Bentonite clay is still dusty, though (3, 4, 7). It’s also quite heavy (3, 4).

There are now lightweight formulas to mitigate that last issue (4, 9). These mix bentonite clay with less weighty mineral particles (4). There are also lightweight granulated clay litters that use a different, lighter-weight type of clay (4). These have much the same advantages and disadvantages as the heavier cat litters they are derived from. The bags or boxes are just easier to lift and transport.

Eco-Friendly

This is a new but fast-growing slice of the cat litter market. More people are trying to make earth-conscious decisions, and that includes their pets. Clay litter is not biodegradable (7). So, there has been a push for sustainably sourced cat litter that is. There are a lot of types of eco-friendly litter now, which is great, but we don’t want to be here all day. Instead, I’m just going to summarize them.

  • Wheat: Utilizes the starches and enzymes in wheat to clump and control odor. Low-dust and low-tracking. (4, 7)
  • Corn: Most common natural cat litter. Utilizes the starches and enzymes in corn to clump and control odor. Low-dust. Can be expensive. (4, 7)
  • Pine/wood: May be made from recycled lumber scraps for added eco-friendliness. Comes in pellet, granule, or crushed form. Wood scents aid odor control. Low-dust. Naturally absorbent but does not clump. (4, 7)
  • Paper: Recycled paper made into pellets or granules. Highly absorbent and essentially dust-free. Granule form clumps. Lacking on odor control. (4, 7)
  • Grass: Made from one of several types of grass. Good clumping and odor control. (4)
  • Coconut husk: Made from the outside part of coconuts. Clumps, but not tightly. Low-dust. Natural coconut scent aids odor control. Not the most widely available option. (7)
  • Walnut shells: Crushed walnut shells, makes for a dark brown litter. Good clumping and odor control. Low-dust and low-tracking. (4, 7)
Cat litter pellets
Some cat litter comes in pellets – Photo by Michal Zacharzewski from FreeImages

I’ve also heard of more niche eco-friendly cat litters made of hemp, peas, green tea, yuca, sugarcane, and even tofu. Some eco-friendly cat litter is compostable or even flushable, although personally I’m not sure flushing cat litter is a great idea (5, 10). Because cats will ingest small amounts of litter while grooming and come into skin contact with their litter, it is important to make sure any cat with allergies is not given an eco-friendly litter containing an ingredient(s) they are allergic to (3). Some of these cat litters contain a lot of different plant ingredients, so check carefully. It’s also important to note that these plant-based litters can attract insects if not stored properly (7).

Silica

Silica is perhaps the latest and greatest when it comes to cat litter. This type of cat litter is made of tiny silica gel crystals or beads (4, 5, 7, 10). Silica is a naturally-occurring mineral that happens to be highly-absorbent (7). These litters are the most expensive, but some say they’re worth the price (3-5, 7). Silica cat litter is famously dust-free and low-tracking (3-5). It has great odor-control (3, 4, 7). It’s so absorptive, it can, in theory, last up to a month for one cat before needing to be changed out (7). It doesn’t clump, though, so that does mean throwing the whole litterbox-full out at the end of the month, or sooner if you have multiple cats (5).

It is the diagnostic cat litters that have really put silica at the front of the pack lately, however. Diagnostic litter contains pH indicators that change color in response to urine (1, 9). By indicating the pH of a cat’s urine, diagnostic litter can be a powerful tool for monitoring kitty’s health (1, 9). Urinary tract infections, kidney disease, and diabetes are some of the diseases that can affect the pH of a cat’s urine (9). For cat’s that have chronic urinary complaints, diagnostic cat litter could be especially helpful (9).

It is important to keep in mind that nothing matters more when choosing a cat litter than what your cat thinks. If something about their litter distresses a cat, there’s a good chance they won’t use it. That said, some cats do not like the sharp, gritty texture of silica crystals under their paws (4, 5, 7).

Clumping or Non-Clumping?

Cats may not go out and buy their litter, but they will make the final decision on whether they use it or not. Their opinion is the most important. So what do they prefer? Certainly their waste would be unlikely to form neat little clumps out in the wild. But that is actually what they prefer. Maybe it’s because the clumping action instantly helps clean up the place. Whatever the reason, cats prefer clumping litter to non-clumping litter (1, 3, 5, 9).

Scented or Unscented?

Some cat litter is scented to cover up the smell of cat waste. Lavender seems to be a favorite, by my observation. This has never appealed to me, but I can see why it might. Who would want to smell cat urine when they could smell flowers? Well, cats disagree. Cats generally don’t like strong smells (1, 3, 7). Even if that scented litter doesn’t smell very strong to you, it might to your cat’s much more sensitive nose. Those scents can linger on your cat after they’ve left the litterbox, too, which they really won’t like (3). Of course, all cats are individuals, so some will tolerate scented litter, but it’s best to avoid it. The litterbox should be scooped/cleaned often enough that it doesn’t reek, anyway.

Cat behaviorist Jackson Galaxy gives his tips for a litterbox your cat will want to visit

Special Considerations

Kittens and Trainees

There are some things to keep in mind when deciding what to put in the litterbox of kittens, especially very young ones. Years ago, a magazine article sounded the alarm that clumping cat litter might be dangerous for kittens (10). The concern is that kittens may eat litter because they explore with their mouths, and the clumping litter would clog their intestines (2, 10). Veterinarians don’t see evidence that this is something that really happens much if ever (2, 10). Still, it may be a good idea to stick with non-clumping cat litter while young kittens are getting used to the litter box (2, 10).

When it comes to litterbox training, both kittens and adult cats that haven’t used the box before can benefit from special litter (1, 6). Cat attractant litters and litter additives are formulated to emit a scent that gets cats’ attention and draws them to the litterbox (1, 6). Kerrie McKeon, designated cat expert for the Greater NYC animal rescue Bideawee, swears by this stuff (1). When Bideawee rescued a large group of cats, none of which had ever used a litterbox, she filled their litterboxes with cat attractant litter (1). All of the cats learned how to use a litterbox without the need for medication (1).

Asthma and Respiratory Disease

For cats with asthma or other respiratory ailments, litter dust can be a big problem (1, 9). It’s right in their faces! “Imagine trying to use the bathroom in a dust storm,” explains feline training-and-behavior specialist Cathy Bosley (1). All that dust can be a serious respiratory irritant and cause or worsen an asthma attack (9). There’s probably no such thing as a truly dust-free litter. Still, the goal is minimal dust. Litter specifically meant for cats with respiratory ailments or paper-based litter can be good options (9).

Surgical Recovery

Cats that are recovering from surgery, even a routine spay/neuter, need special consideration. Their litter might not be the first thing to come to mind as part of their aftercare, but it can make a difference. Some types of litter can get stuck and build up on sutures, bandages, wounds, etc. (1, 9). Clumping litter is the primary culprit for this problem (1). Besides being gross, stuck litter can irritate sensitive tissue (1). I can only imagine what kind of infection risk it poses. Pelleted paper cat litter is the gold standard for surgical recovery because it does not stick (1, 9). Cats are not fans of sudden changes, though, so if you have the time before a scheduled surgery, it’s best to start switching litters beforehand.

Declawed Cats

Never, ever declaw a cat. Ever. But maybe you already have a declawed cat. My former roommate and I once adopted an abandoned cat and discovered that all four of his paws had been declawed, which is almost never done. So if you’ve already got a furry friend who is missing the ends of their digits, they may have some issues that other cats don’t. Litterbox trouble is a common one. Declawed cats have chronic foot pain, and the litterbox can make this worse (8). The act of digging can be difficult and/or painful (8). Also, the dust and particles of litter between their toes, as well as grooming it out later, can really hurt declawed cats (8). The right cat litter can alleviate the discomfort, however.

The key is to find the softest cat litter possible (8). Pelleted litter is usually a bad idea–it’s too hard and bumpy (8). Look for lightweight, fine-grained litter (8). Eco-friendly litters can be softest, depending upon what they’re made of and the texture, so maybe give them a try (8). My roommate used a wheat litter for the declawed rescue cat. He was equally happy with the grass litter in Joon’s boxes.

Works Cited

  1. Adelson, K. I. (2020, October 1). The best cat litter, according to vets. The Strategist. https://nymag.com/strategist/article/best-cat-litter.html
  2. CatHealth. (n.d.). Best litter for kittens: Is clumping litter safe? CatHealth.com. https://www.cathealth.com/cat-care/safety/2300-best-litter-for-kittens-is-clumping-litter-safe
  3. CatHealth. (n.d.). What is the best type of cat litter? CatHealth.com. https://www.cathealth.com/cat-care/accessories/2439-what-is-the-best-type-of-cat-litter
  4. Golon, C. (2014, August 5). The cat owner’s guide to kitty litter options. VetStreet. http://www.vetstreet.com/our-pet-experts/the-cat-owners-guide-to-kitty-litter-options
  5. Lee, J. A. (2008). Kitty litter: Does it really matter what type I buy? Pet Health Network. https://www.pethealthnetwork.com/cat-health/cat-behavior/kitty-litter-does-it-really-matter-what-type-i-buy
  6. Nicholas, J. (2021, March 21). Litter box 101: What type of litter is best for your cat. Preventive Vet. https://www.preventivevet.com/cats/what-type-of-litter-is-best-for-your-cat
  7. Petco. (n.d.). Choosing the best cat litter for your household. https://www.petco.com/content/petco/PetcoStore/en_US/pet-services/resource-center/new-pet/Choosing-the-Right-Cat-Litter.html
  8. PetMD Editorial. (2019, April 9). What’s the best litter for declawed cats? PetMD. https://www.petmd.com/cat/care/whats-best-litter-declawed-cats
  9. Robins, S. (2020, January 26). Finding the right litter. Catster. E-newsletter.
  10. Schultz, J. L. (2003). How to choose a cat litter. Petfinder. https://www.petfinder.com/cats/bringing-a-cat-home/choose-cat-litter/

Published March 28, 2021