training Archives • Encyclopaedia Felidae

Meredith Hemphill

mehshadoweye

Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Tabby cat in Christmas tree — Photo by **Jessica Lewis** from Pexels

If you celebrate Christmas, there’s a good chance you put up some kind of Christmas tree. If you read this blog, there’s a good chance you have at least one cat or are thinking about getting one. So if you celebrate Christmas and read this blog, then you probably have reason to keep a cat out of a Christmas tree. Me too, my friend. The two cats we had growing up actually showed very little interest in the Christmas tree, except as a new thing to sleep under. But in recent years, I have lived with cats that had a lot more holiday cheer, shall we say.

So this article is for Sven, my roommate’s cat who thought a two-foot plastic tree would somehow stand up to 10+ pounds of tomcat flinging himself into its branches. And for Joon, whose teeth marks are forever left in my shiny foil Christmas present ornament. This will be her first Christmas in a house with a Christmas tree that’s actually large enough for a cat to climb, and I am panicking more than a little. But my research says all hope is not lost.

Choose Your Tree Wisely

I have never once had a live Christmas tree. I was probably eight years old before I found out that was a thing people did. Now I know that for many people, the live tree is a big part of their holiday tradition. And the first people to put up Christmas trees certainly weren’t using plastic ones, so tradition really is on your side if that’s your preference. However, live trees are much more attractive to cats than artificial ones.

Climbing is hardwired into the feline brain, and one of the most readily accessible climbing surfaces in nature is trees (1, 2, 3). In addition to climbing trees to hide, hunt, and survey their domain, cats also use trees to mark territory (1, 2). Marking can include rubbing and scratching or really quite unpleasant urine and fecal scent deposits. Artificial trees can look similar to real trees, but they don’t smell like them. Scent is very important to cats–hence the marking–so when you bring in a real, live tree, they know it’s a tree (2, 3). And their feline mind has very different ideas about what a tree in the living room is for than you do.

If it’s really important to you to have a live tree, it can be done, but it’s easier (and often safer) to have an artificial one. Whichever flavor of tree you choose, keep in mind that smaller trees are less likely to become kitty jungle gyms (2). Plus, if your cat does climb the tree and manage to knock it over, the smaller the tree is, the less likely your cat is to get injured in the fall (4). Slimmer trees also make less appealing targets, so consider a pencil tree if you’re going artificial or a live tree with a similar profile (5).

Location, Location, Location

Once you have your tree picked out, you need to set it up. Depending upon the tree, that can be an ordeal in itself, but with a cat extra care needs to be taken. First of all, make sure that you have a heavy-duty base to secure your tree with (1, 2, 4-6). The hope is that the cat won’t climb the tree at all, but you want to do your best to keep the tree from toppling if they do.

Next, look for a place where there would be plenty of open space around the tree: no furniture, cat trees, or other launching pads your cat might jump into the tree from (1, 2, 4-6). Ideally, the amount of empty space around the tree will be equal to the height of the tree (2). So a six foot tree would have a furniture-free zone extending six feet from it in all directions.

Of course, having that much free space around the tree isn’t always practical. Fortunately, you can work around the need for so much space in a number of ways. We’ll get to the more complicated ones later. The simplest ways are to 1) have a shorter and/or slimmer tree that doesn’t need such a big zone around it, or 2) put the tree in a corner (6). That completely eliminates two directions from which a cat could come flying. It’s also safer for your cat–and your decorations–because it eliminates two directions in which the tree could fall, too.

If your home is amenable to it, it’s a good idea to secure the Christmas tree to a wall or the ceiling. Screw an eyebolt into the wall or ceiling and tie the tree to it with clear fishing line. It’s a nearly invisible fix that might prevent a disaster. Just make sure your cat doesn’t get ahold of the fishing line and decide to eat it! (1-3, 5, 6)

If you really want to keep the cat out of the Christmas tree completely, you may want to put the tree in a room that you can close off and restrict the cat’s access to (1, 7). Before you decide to shove your beautiful, festive tree of holiday cheer into a back room somewhere, though, wait until we’ve gone over all the options. There are lots of tricks you can try yet.

Ornaments Hung by the Greenery with Care

Decorating the tree is one of my favorite Christmas traditions. I love the beauty of the ornaments and remembering the history of each one as we go through them. Unfortunately, to cats, ornaments look an awful lot like toys. To avoid broken ornaments and possibly trips to the vet, we have to be careful about how we decorate our trees.

You may want to start decorating the second you get the tree put up. I know I do. But hold off for a while. If you leave the tree bare for a few days, it gives your cat a chance to investigate it and hopefully get bored of it before you start hanging any tempting baubles (4).

Brown tabby cat swatting gold Christmas balls — Image by Myshun from Pixabay

When it is time to decorate, first things first: if you decorate with tinsel, don’t. This is one thing that is non-negotiable. I know, tinsel is shiny and awesome, but cats think so, too. And they respond to shiny, awesome things very differently than we do. Cats infamously like to eat tinsel, and when they do the tinsel can choke them or get caught in their digestive systems (2, 4-6, 8). These are life-threatening emergencies. The digestive blockages caused by tinsel usually require surgery to repair. So, no tinsel.

Garlands may also be a chewing hazard, but it depends upon what they’re made of. Food garlands might seem safe, but some human foods are toxic to cats, not to mention that they tempt your pets to get into the tree (6). Anything tinsel-like has the same risks as tinsel. Paper garlands can be a good idea (8). They aren’t very attractive to cats, and if kitty does nibble them, it’s no big deal. Wood also doesn’t grab a cat’s attention the way shiny things do (3, 5).

Now, for the main event–the ornaments. Perhaps the simplest thing to do is not decorate the bottom of the tree at all (2, 4-6). How much of the tree you leave plain is up to you and the reach of your cat. Pet Health Network suggests not decorating the bottom fifth (2). Alternatively, decorate only with unbreakable ornaments at the bottom–wood, plastic, felt, burlap, etc. (5). That may still be too tempting and get your cat too interested in the tree, though. You can always try and see how it goes, if you’re feeling brave.

It’s best to only decorate with unbreakable ornaments, really. They’re typically less shiny, so they don’t attract cats as much (3, 5). And those fragile glass ornaments, while beautiful and often sentimental, can be very dangerous for your cat if they break them (1, 6). They might ingest small pieces or cut themselves on the sharp, broken edges (1, 6). And even if no one gets hurt, who likes broken ornaments? No one, that’s who. But most of us have some fragile favorites that we like to see on the tree every year. So make sure to put them toward the very top of the tree and secure them well. In fact, secure all your ornaments well.

The more ornaments sway, the more enticing they will be (3). Metal ornament hooks can hurt your cat’s paws if swatted or stepped on, and they aren’t very secure anyway (4, 5). Instead of hooks, consider tying your ornaments to the branches with twist ties, wire, or twine (2-6, 8).

The Art of Deterrence

Now we get to the more creative approaches. If you just can’t keep your cat out of the Christmas tree in any of the above ways, try the following. Remember, however, that wherever you say “no,” you must also provide a “yes” (3). If the only climbing/scratching/perching surface in the living room is the Christmas tree, there may be no amount of deterrence that will keep your cat from trying to get into it. The Christmas tree is usually in a socially significant area of the house, so your cat will want to hang out in that area with you (3). Therefore, make sure that you have a tall, quality cat tree in the room with the Christmas tree as an appropriate alternative to the tree itself (3). Just don’t put it too close to the tree, or your cat will be tempted to jump between the two (3)!

Started from the Bottom

If your cat is climbing the Christmas tree from the base, there are several ways you can discourage them from this point of entry. Wrap the bottom of the tree trunk with aluminum foil (2, 4, 5). Cats usually don’t like the sensation or sound of foil. A circle of foil under the tree skirt may also work (4, 7).

The Christmas Tree Defender – Photo from company website

A more heavy-duty solution for the problem is the Christmas Tree Defender, a circular grate made of green plastic that clips around your tree. It can also be used for potted plants year-round. It is treated with a flame retardant, though, so it may not be suitable if you have a cat that likes to chew hard plastics.

Trees Are Not for Eating

Speaking of chewing, Christmas trees and their strings of lights can be tempting targets for chewers. Cats are known for investigating new and interesting things with their mouths, but when it comes to Christmas decorations, this is not just destructive but very dangerous. Pine needles are sharp and toxic to cats (3, 4, 6). Artificial needles can be dangerous if eaten, too, as plastic doesn’t really digest (1). Then there’s the lights. Some cats just can’t resist chewing on cords, but if they reach live wires within, burns on their mouths are a best-case scenario.

What to do? For the lights, apply a pet-safe bitter spray or cream to them before you string them on the tree (2, 3, 5, 6). If using a spray, it’s best to spray a cloth and then wipe the cords with the cloth (5). Make sure to wear gloves! If you have a pre-lit tree, this will obviously be a rather difficult endeavor. Just do your best and tuck away any dangling wires once you’ve coated them. You can also spray the whole tree with bitter spray, which works for cats that want to chew the branches (6).

Unplug the lights when not in use to minimize the chances that the wires will be live if the cat bites into them. It’s also a good idea to use a cord cover on the unlighted length between tree and wall socket so that the cat is unlikely to chew through to the wires at all (1, 3-6, 8).

Prevention is Scent-sational

There are certain smells that cats do not like. There are exceptions to almost every rule, but most likely your cat won’t be a fan of citrus, citronella, menthol, and apple cider vinegar (1, 3-5, 8). You can buy cat repellant, usually citrus-based sprays to spritz the Christmas tree with (1, 5), or you can use a variety of homemade solutions.

Cat behaviorist Jackson Galaxy suggests putting citrus zest, whatever kind strikes your fancy, into plastic bags, poking a few holes in the top, twisting them up, and hanging them inside the tree (3). He says that from a distance nobody will think anything of it (3). I trust Jackson Galaxy to the moon and back when it comes to cats, but I do wonder about his aesthetic sensibilities. You could maybe do the same with cheap plastic Christmas balls with holes poked in the top, but I haven’t tried it. I might, though, so watch this space. Other possibilities include:

Placing lemon or orange peels around the base of the tree (4, 8)
Including orange slices or strips of orange peel in the tree decorations (5)
Spray pinecones with apple cider vinegar and place them at the base of the tree (8); if using pinecones from outside, bake them in the oven at at low heat to kill any bugs first
Mix a little citronella oil into a spray bottle of water and spritz the tree with it (8)

Not-So-Holy Water

One of the big problems with cats and live trees is that cats want to drink the tree water. This isn’t just weird. It’s unsafe. The water may contain pine sap, fire retardants, pesticides, and fertilizers, all of which are toxic to your cat (1, 2, 5, 6, 8). Not adding anything to the water yourself, i.e. Aspirin, can prevent further toxicity, but it’s best to keep the cat out of it any way you can. Some tree stands include a cover for the water bowl, so if you can find a sturdy stand with a cat-proof cover, you’re in luck (1, 6)! But if not, aluminum foil or plastic wrap can be your friend here just like on the tree trunk (1, 2, 8). Netting or Sticky Paws for Plants, a kind of double-sided tape for deterring cats, are other good choices (6).

Creative cat-proof Christmas trees with Cole and Marmalade

Works Cited

Jordan, E. (2019, October 17). How to cat-proof your Christmas tree (or at least try to). Pet Central. https://petcentral.chewy.com/holiday-safety-tips-pet-proofing-christmas-tree/
Lee, J.A. (n.d.). Help! How do I keep my cat out of the Christmas tree? Pet Health Network. https://www.pethealthnetwork.com/cat-health/cat-behavior/help-how-do-i-keep-my-cat-out-christmas-tree
Galaxy, J. (n.d.). The ugly truth about cats and Christmas trees. JacksonGalaxy.com. https://www.jacksongalaxy.com/blog/the-ugly-truth-about-cats-and-christmas-trees/
PETA Living. (n.d.). How to cat-proof your Christmas tree. People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals. https://www.peta.org/living/animal-companions/how-to-cat-proof-your-christmas-tree/
Nicholas, J. (2017, November 7). How to keep your cat out of the Christmas tree. Preventive Vet. https://www.preventivevet.com/cats/how-to-keep-your-cat-out-of-the-christmas-tree
Johnson-Bennett, P. (n.d.). How to keep your cat away from the Christmas tree. Cat Behavior Associates. https://catbehaviorassociates.com/how-to-keep-your-cat-away-from-the-christmas-tree/
Becker, M. (2012, December 17). How do I keep my cat out of the Christmas tree? VetStreet. http://www.vetstreet.com/dr-marty-becker/how-do-i-keep-my-cat-out-of-the-christmas-tree
Kostelny, L. (2020, November 5). How to keep your cat out of your Christmas tree. Country Living. Retrieved from https://www.countryliving.com/life/kids-pets/g28916373/how-to-keep-cats-out-of-christmas-tree/#

Published November 29, 2020

Cat Care

Leash Training for Cats

May 3, 2020May 12, 2023 mehshadoweye

Meredith Hemphill

mehshadoweye

Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

White cat on leash — Photo by **Dids** from Pexels

Though still unusual, it has become more common these days to see someone walking their cat on a leash. Some may think the entire concept is absurd, but the evidence that it can be done is there for all to see. The question is, how? Just getting most cats into their crates is a feat not for the faint of heart. What kind of sorcery is required to wrestle one into a harness? No sorcery, but it does involve some patience and a willingness to meet your cat where they’re at.

Not all cats will want to be walked. Knowing your cat’s personality will give you a good idea how they will feel about the subject. A cat that is always hanging around outside-facing doors, looking out windows, and trying to escape when you open the door is a cat that’s interested in the outdoors. There’s a good chance that they’ll enjoy a chance to explore. Cats that are afraid of outside doors, are very stressed by change, or are very timid in general may not want to be walked. You could still try it. You might be surprised and find out that going on a walk gives your cat the confidence boost they needed. But just don’t get your hopes up.

That being said, most cats are not thrilled about the prospect of being walked when it is first presented. Cats generally do not like unfamiliar experiences, and this certainly qualifies. However, if they are eased into it slowly, some cats come to be very enthusiastic about being walked.

Proper Preparation

Before attempting to walk your cat, make sure that they are up to date on their vaccinations, including Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV). Indoor cats are usually not at risk for FeLV, but a cat on a walk might catch it from contact with another cat. Also make sure that your cat stays current on flea, tick, heartworm, and intestinal worm preventatives, as these parasites are much more likely to be encountered outdoors.

Make sure that your cat has a collar with ID tags to wear on walks in case the two of you become separated. It’s a good idea to have your cat microchipped, too. If your cat was microchipped a while ago, make sure that the information is up to date. Cat collars are typically break-away, meaning that the latch will come undone if the cat gets the collar caught on something. This is a good thing, given the kinds of places cats can get into. Break-away collars prevent entrapment or suffocation. But if the only way your cat can be traced back to you is the ID tag on their collar, these collars may not be much help in reuniting you.

Ginger tabby wearing harness with bowtie — Some harnesses can be very stylish – Photo by Amber Kipp on Unsplash

With all that accomplished, it’s time to buy a harness and leash for your cat. There are a variety of products made specifically for cats, as well as some small dog harnesses that can work well. It is important to use a harness and not just a leash that clips to your cat’s collar, partially because of the break-away collar issue mentioned above. Also, cats can sometimes slip out of their collars, and a harness distributes pressure more comfortably across a cat’s chest instead of in one place against their throat.

There are different types of harnesses available. Some use adjustable straps and others are like a fabric vest. Both types have their merits and pitfalls. The vest type can be easier to put on, but may not fit well on chubby or long-haired cats. The strap kind allows for more adjustment but may slip off of svelte or short-haired cats. Your cat may also have their own preference.

Leashes can also vary. A very long leash can put you too far away from your cat should any threat arise, like someone walking a dog. Retractable leashes tend to present the same problem, allowing you to put too much distance between you and your cat. There are leashes for cats which are somewhat flexible. They have a section of coiled fabric which allows your cat to jump without the leash jerking them back. Those are my personal favorite, but I have seen no expert mandate requiring such a product. As long as you allow your cat enough slack on the leash, the flexible lead probably isn’t a necessity.

Getting Ready to Walk

The best time to start training a cat to walk is when they’re a kitten, but it’s never too late. The process is likely to take longer with adult cats, but it will be a gradual matter regardless. Let your cat set the pace and never force them to walk. If you have clicker trained your cat, that will come in very much in handy during this process.

The first step is getting your cat used to the harness. Begin by placing the harness out in the open where your cat can investigate it. Reward your cat with a treat for sniffing or otherwise showing interest in the harness to build a positive association. If your cat is clicker trained, then click and treat when your cat shows interest. Do this over the course of as many days as it takes for your cat to become used to the harness being in their space, then try draping the harness over your cat. Reward your cat for tolerating the harness. When your cat isn’t bothered by having the harness laid on top of them, you can try putting them into the harness.

You want to make it the most positive experience possible, although your cat probably won’t like it the first time or even the first several times. Give your cat their favorite treats after the harness is on, and be gentle and soothing while getting your cat into the contraption. Then, let your kitty walk around in the harness for a while. Some cats will just freeze up when put into a harness, but eventually they will get used to the feeling. You can try playing with your cat while they wear it if they’re willing. Once they’ve relaxed, you can remove the harness and repeat tomorrow, and the next day, and the next, until your cat is comfortable with putting on and wearing the harness.

How to Put a Strap-Style Harness on a Cat

Next, start attaching the leash when you put your cat in the harness, but don’t hold the leash. Just let your cat walk around with the leash dragging behind them. Do watch to make sure they don’t get the leash caught on anything. The goal is to accustom your cat to the feeling of something else on their body. Once they’re comfortable with this stage, start walking your cat around the house. Hold the leash and let your cat lead you. Treat them often to keep building that positive association. If your cat seems comfortable, you can practice directing them. Only ever use gentle corrections on the leash to direct your cat. Hard tugs on the leash to tell them where to go can make cats averse to the entire activity of walking.

Into the Wild

When your cat is okay with being walked inside, you are finally ready to venture outside. The first few times, you may just want to open the door and sit on the stoop with your cat. It depends on their personality, but for many cats those first forays into the outdoors can be scary. Even if your cat wants to explore outside, they may need a little time to build up their courage. It’s a good idea to walk your cat inside a safe, enclosed yard at first, if at all possible.

However quickly your cat takes to the great outdoors, never forget that a cat is not a dog. Therefore walking a cat is not like walking a dog. Cats tend to go a much more leisurely pace and stop to investigate objects or change course much more often. Walking a cat is really more like being walked by a cat, except you are responsible for correcting your cat if they start to go somewhere unsafe. Always look out for other animals as well as any plants that might be toxic for your cat to consume. Flower beds can be deadly, especially if they have lilies of any kind. Even the pollen of lilies can cause fatal kidney failure in cats if it gets on their fur and they lick it off.

White and orange cat on a leash on sofa — Train your cat to walk indoors before venturing outside – Photo by Taylor Deas-Melesh on Unsplash

As long as you are there to keep your cat safe, the stimulation offered by the outdoors can be delightful for many cats. It engages their brains and bodies, providing them with new problems to solve, things to see and smell, and more exercise than can typically be afforded indoors. We should always strive to provide the best enrichment inside that we can. Unfortunately, we can never perfectly emulate the dynamic and complex natural environment. Taking cats on walks provides them with a safe way to enjoy the perks of the outdoors.

Since cats thrive on routine, it’s best to establish a daily walking plan for your cat. Part of this is having a signal to let your cat know that it’s walk time. It’s also a good idea to put the harness and leash on in the same place every day. It’s best not to do this near the door, or your cat might start to associate the door with the fun of going outside and try to dart out every time you open it.

What if you try this entire process, and your cat never takes to it? Maybe they never get used to the harness, or no matter how carefully you introduce them to the outdoors they are always afraid. There are a lot of points where your cat might say “no.” You need to respect their decision if they do. Not every cat will want to be walked. If you think your cat might still benefit from going outside, then there are alternatives.

Cat strollers and backpacks allow you to walk your cat without a leash, and catios can be built in any outdoor space your home might have. Catios allow your cat access to the outside without straying from their home. For a more timid cat, a catio may be the better option. It’s all a matter of finding out what your cat wants. I will say that the least expensive of these options is the harness and leash, and it helps both you and your cat form an exercise routine, so it’s a good place to start.

Published May 3, 2020

Updated January 8, 2021

Tag: training

How to Keep Your Cat out of the Christmas Tree