Month: March 2021

Cat Care

How to Choose the Best Cat Litter

mehshadoweye

Meredith Hemphill

mehshadoweye

Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Gray cat beside litterbox
Photo by Litter Robot on Unsplash

I was recently forced to switch brands of cat litter because the place I shop stopped carrying the one I had been using for most of Joon’s life. Upon searching for a suitable replacement, I was immediately confronted with the overwhelming variety of cat litter options available on the market today. What I thought would be, at most, a ten minute task took an hour-and-a-half as I fell down a rabbit hole of customer reviews and “best cat litters” rankings. No one deserves to suffer as I have suffered. Instead, I am putting together a handy guide to the types of cat litter and the factors about them that matter.

Material Matters

Before World War II, there was no such thing as cat litter. Most cats were outdoor or indoor-outdoor and didn’t have litterboxes at all (10). Increased urbanization had brought more cats inside as family pets, however, creating a need for the litterbox. So people with indoor cats would fill boxes with sand or ashes and keep them somewhere out-of-the-way (10). It was a solution, but not a great one. Sand and ash do nothing for absorption and little for odor control, and they track everywhere. They are horrible substances when it comes to tracking. My last apartment had a wood-burning fireplace. We never used it, yet the whole apartment was gray by the time we moved out thanks to my cat. But pre-war homeowners had nothing better to use. Those of us who live in the era of cat litter have a man named Edward Lowe to thank.

Ed was a former sailor whose father had a company that manufactured absorbent clay (10). This clay was used to clean up oil and grease spills in wartime factories (10) and civilian garages alike (5). Ed realized those same absorbent properties might work in litterboxes, and he was right (4, 5, 10). In 1947, he registered his invention under the name Kitty Litter (9). Granulated clay litters are still used today, but a lot of other materials have been added since Ed Lowe created the litter market. We’ll start with the old stand-by.

Clay

The original type of cat litter made from granulated clay is still an option. It’s usually the cheapest kind of litter (4, 5). It has good absorption but doesn’t clump, so the whole pan needs to be thrown out and refilled once it’s too soiled (4, 5). That usually takes about a week for a single cat (5, 10). Granulated clay tends to have good odor control (7). These days, many formulations include additives like carbon or plant extracts to boost the odor control properties (7). Granulated clay litter usually doesn’t track too bad (10), but it can be pretty dusty (4, 7).

In the 1980s, biochemist and cat person Thomas Nelson, on a quest for a better litter, discovered that bentonite clay forms clumps when wet (5,10). Now waste could simply be scooped out of the litterbox instead of the whole box being dumped all the time. Thus, clumping clay cat litter was born. Obviously the biggest advantage of clumping clay litter is the ease of clean-up (2-5, 7, 10). Those clumps also lend themselves to greener pet care. Since the box doesn’t need to be completely emptied as often as it does with granulated clay, clumping clay litter causes less waste and is better for the environment (5, 10). It also tends to be better for odor control (5, 10). Bentonite clay is still dusty, though (3, 4, 7). It’s also quite heavy (3, 4).

There are now lightweight formulas to mitigate that last issue (4, 9). These mix bentonite clay with less weighty mineral particles (4). There are also lightweight granulated clay litters that use a different, lighter-weight type of clay (4). These have much the same advantages and disadvantages as the heavier cat litters they are derived from. The bags or boxes are just easier to lift and transport.

Eco-Friendly

This is a new but fast-growing slice of the cat litter market. More people are trying to make earth-conscious decisions, and that includes their pets. Clay litter is not biodegradable (7). So, there has been a push for sustainably sourced cat litter that is. There are a lot of types of eco-friendly litter now, which is great, but we don’t want to be here all day. Instead, I’m just going to summarize them.

  • Wheat: Utilizes the starches and enzymes in wheat to clump and control odor. Low-dust and low-tracking. (4, 7)
  • Corn: Most common natural cat litter. Utilizes the starches and enzymes in corn to clump and control odor. Low-dust. Can be expensive. (4, 7)
  • Pine/wood: May be made from recycled lumber scraps for added eco-friendliness. Comes in pellet, granule, or crushed form. Wood scents aid odor control. Low-dust. Naturally absorbent but does not clump. (4, 7)
  • Paper: Recycled paper made into pellets or granules. Highly absorbent and essentially dust-free. Granule form clumps. Lacking on odor control. (4, 7)
  • Grass: Made from one of several types of grass. Good clumping and odor control. (4)
  • Coconut husk: Made from the outside part of coconuts. Clumps, but not tightly. Low-dust. Natural coconut scent aids odor control. Not the most widely available option. (7)
  • Walnut shells: Crushed walnut shells, makes for a dark brown litter. Good clumping and odor control. Low-dust and low-tracking. (4, 7)
Cat litter pellets
Some cat litter comes in pellets – Photo by Michal Zacharzewski from FreeImages

I’ve also heard of more niche eco-friendly cat litters made of hemp, peas, green tea, yuca, sugarcane, and even tofu. Some eco-friendly cat litter is compostable or even flushable, although personally I’m not sure flushing cat litter is a great idea (5, 10). Because cats will ingest small amounts of litter while grooming and come into skin contact with their litter, it is important to make sure any cat with allergies is not given an eco-friendly litter containing an ingredient(s) they are allergic to (3). Some of these cat litters contain a lot of different plant ingredients, so check carefully. It’s also important to note that these plant-based litters can attract insects if not stored properly (7).

Silica

Silica is perhaps the latest and greatest when it comes to cat litter. This type of cat litter is made of tiny silica gel crystals or beads (4, 5, 7, 10). Silica is a naturally-occurring mineral that happens to be highly-absorbent (7). These litters are the most expensive, but some say they’re worth the price (3-5, 7). Silica cat litter is famously dust-free and low-tracking (3-5). It has great odor-control (3, 4, 7). It’s so absorptive, it can, in theory, last up to a month for one cat before needing to be changed out (7). It doesn’t clump, though, so that does mean throwing the whole litterbox-full out at the end of the month, or sooner if you have multiple cats (5).

It is the diagnostic cat litters that have really put silica at the front of the pack lately, however. Diagnostic litter contains pH indicators that change color in response to urine (1, 9). By indicating the pH of a cat’s urine, diagnostic litter can be a powerful tool for monitoring kitty’s health (1, 9). Urinary tract infections, kidney disease, and diabetes are some of the diseases that can affect the pH of a cat’s urine (9). For cat’s that have chronic urinary complaints, diagnostic cat litter could be especially helpful (9).

It is important to keep in mind that nothing matters more when choosing a cat litter than what your cat thinks. If something about their litter distresses a cat, there’s a good chance they won’t use it. That said, some cats do not like the sharp, gritty texture of silica crystals under their paws (4, 5, 7).

Clumping or Non-Clumping?

Cats may not go out and buy their litter, but they will make the final decision on whether they use it or not. Their opinion is the most important. So what do they prefer? Certainly their waste would be unlikely to form neat little clumps out in the wild. But that is actually what they prefer. Maybe it’s because the clumping action instantly helps clean up the place. Whatever the reason, cats prefer clumping litter to non-clumping litter (1, 3, 5, 9).

Scented or Unscented?

Some cat litter is scented to cover up the smell of cat waste. Lavender seems to be a favorite, by my observation. This has never appealed to me, but I can see why it might. Who would want to smell cat urine when they could smell flowers? Well, cats disagree. Cats generally don’t like strong smells (1, 3, 7). Even if that scented litter doesn’t smell very strong to you, it might to your cat’s much more sensitive nose. Those scents can linger on your cat after they’ve left the litterbox, too, which they really won’t like (3). Of course, all cats are individuals, so some will tolerate scented litter, but it’s best to avoid it. The litterbox should be scooped/cleaned often enough that it doesn’t reek, anyway.

Cat behaviorist Jackson Galaxy gives his tips for a litterbox your cat will want to visit

Special Considerations

Kittens and Trainees

There are some things to keep in mind when deciding what to put in the litterbox of kittens, especially very young ones. Years ago, a magazine article sounded the alarm that clumping cat litter might be dangerous for kittens (10). The concern is that kittens may eat litter because they explore with their mouths, and the clumping litter would clog their intestines (2, 10). Veterinarians don’t see evidence that this is something that really happens much if ever (2, 10). Still, it may be a good idea to stick with non-clumping cat litter while young kittens are getting used to the litter box (2, 10).

When it comes to litterbox training, both kittens and adult cats that haven’t used the box before can benefit from special litter (1, 6). Cat attractant litters and litter additives are formulated to emit a scent that gets cats’ attention and draws them to the litterbox (1, 6). Kerrie McKeon, designated cat expert for the Greater NYC animal rescue Bideawee, swears by this stuff (1). When Bideawee rescued a large group of cats, none of which had ever used a litterbox, she filled their litterboxes with cat attractant litter (1). All of the cats learned how to use a litterbox without the need for medication (1).

Asthma and Respiratory Disease

For cats with asthma or other respiratory ailments, litter dust can be a big problem (1, 9). It’s right in their faces! “Imagine trying to use the bathroom in a dust storm,” explains feline training-and-behavior specialist Cathy Bosley (1). All that dust can be a serious respiratory irritant and cause or worsen an asthma attack (9). There’s probably no such thing as a truly dust-free litter. Still, the goal is minimal dust. Litter specifically meant for cats with respiratory ailments or paper-based litter can be good options (9).

Surgical Recovery

Cats that are recovering from surgery, even a routine spay/neuter, need special consideration. Their litter might not be the first thing to come to mind as part of their aftercare, but it can make a difference. Some types of litter can get stuck and build up on sutures, bandages, wounds, etc. (1, 9). Clumping litter is the primary culprit for this problem (1). Besides being gross, stuck litter can irritate sensitive tissue (1). I can only imagine what kind of infection risk it poses. Pelleted paper cat litter is the gold standard for surgical recovery because it does not stick (1, 9). Cats are not fans of sudden changes, though, so if you have the time before a scheduled surgery, it’s best to start switching litters beforehand.

Declawed Cats

Never, ever declaw a cat. Ever. But maybe you already have a declawed cat. My former roommate and I once adopted an abandoned cat and discovered that all four of his paws had been declawed, which is almost never done. So if you’ve already got a furry friend who is missing the ends of their digits, they may have some issues that other cats don’t. Litterbox trouble is a common one. Declawed cats have chronic foot pain, and the litterbox can make this worse (8). The act of digging can be difficult and/or painful (8). Also, the dust and particles of litter between their toes, as well as grooming it out later, can really hurt declawed cats (8). The right cat litter can alleviate the discomfort, however.

The key is to find the softest cat litter possible (8). Pelleted litter is usually a bad idea–it’s too hard and bumpy (8). Look for lightweight, fine-grained litter (8). Eco-friendly litters can be softest, depending upon what they’re made of and the texture, so maybe give them a try (8). My roommate used a wheat litter for the declawed rescue cat. He was equally happy with the grass litter in Joon’s boxes.

Works Cited

  1. Adelson, K. I. (2020, October 1). The best cat litter, according to vets. The Strategist. https://nymag.com/strategist/article/best-cat-litter.html
  2. CatHealth. (n.d.). Best litter for kittens: Is clumping litter safe? CatHealth.com. https://www.cathealth.com/cat-care/safety/2300-best-litter-for-kittens-is-clumping-litter-safe
  3. CatHealth. (n.d.). What is the best type of cat litter? CatHealth.com. https://www.cathealth.com/cat-care/accessories/2439-what-is-the-best-type-of-cat-litter
  4. Golon, C. (2014, August 5). The cat owner’s guide to kitty litter options. VetStreet. http://www.vetstreet.com/our-pet-experts/the-cat-owners-guide-to-kitty-litter-options
  5. Lee, J. A. (2008). Kitty litter: Does it really matter what type I buy? Pet Health Network. https://www.pethealthnetwork.com/cat-health/cat-behavior/kitty-litter-does-it-really-matter-what-type-i-buy
  6. Nicholas, J. (2021, March 21). Litter box 101: What type of litter is best for your cat. Preventive Vet. https://www.preventivevet.com/cats/what-type-of-litter-is-best-for-your-cat
  7. Petco. (n.d.). Choosing the best cat litter for your household. https://www.petco.com/content/petco/PetcoStore/en_US/pet-services/resource-center/new-pet/Choosing-the-Right-Cat-Litter.html
  8. PetMD Editorial. (2019, April 9). What’s the best litter for declawed cats? PetMD. https://www.petmd.com/cat/care/whats-best-litter-declawed-cats
  9. Robins, S. (2020, January 26). Finding the right litter. Catster. E-newsletter.
  10. Schultz, J. L. (2003). How to choose a cat litter. Petfinder. https://www.petfinder.com/cats/bringing-a-cat-home/choose-cat-litter/

Published March 28, 2021

Science

Feline Reproduction, Part II: Pregnancy and Kittens

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Meredith Hemphill

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Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Mother tabby cat and kitten
Image by JackieLou DL from Pixabay

Happy Spring Equinox! Spring is the season of new life, and that includes new kittens. Two weeks ago, we looked at the reproductive cycles and mating behavior of cats. Now, we look at what naturally comes next. I’ll cover the stages of cat pregnancy, birth, and the basics of kitten development. Additionally, I will continue to debunk common myths about feline reproduction.

Cat Pregnancy

A she-cat carrying or raising kittens is called a queen. Queens are pregnant for approximately nine weeks (2, 5, 6, 9). About three weeks in, queens begin to show signs of pregnancy (9). This is also when it first becomes possible to confirm pregnancy because a veterinarian can then feel the kittens inside the abdomen (8, 9). An ultrasound will also do the trick (8). The symptoms of a cat pregnancy include:

  • Weight gain (4, 9)
  • Increased appetite (2, 9)
  • Dark/pink, swollen nipples (2, 4, 9)

If you have a pregnant queen on your hands, make sure to feed her food approved for “growth and reproduction” life stages. This is usually labeled as kitten food, but it has the nutrients queens need to nourish themselves and their kittens as well. As her pregnancy progresses, she will need her food delivered in frequent, small meals (8). There is less room for food in there, after all!

As a cat nears the end of her pregnancy, she begins looking for a nesting site (2, 5, 8, 9). In the wild, a queen seeks out a dry, safe, hidden, and defensible location to kit. She usually picks out several so that she has places to move her kittens if danger threatens the original nest. An indoor cat will exhibit essentially the same behavior. She may appreciate being provided with a box, basket, or bed lined with soft bedding (5, 8, 9). Or she may choose to have her kittens under the kitchen sink, or some other weird place. She will pick wherever she thinks is safest. When the time comes, cats give birth to an average of four kittens (2, 4).

Birth

When a queen is near to kitting, she will probably visit her nest site(s) repeatedly and make adjustments to the bedding (4). She may become restless or anxious (8). Queens with humans may act more affectionate and seek comfort, or do the opposite and become withdrawn (4, 9). They may meow, purr, or pant (4, 5). The queen cleans around her vulva and nipples (5). This is thought to strengthen her scent there and lay a trail for the newborn kittens to follow toward the milk supply (5). During this time contractions begin, but no kittens appear (5). This first stage of labor can last as long as 36 hours in new mothers (4).

When the queen enters the next phase of labor, the contractions strengthen and the first kitten is born (4). The placenta soon follows (4). As soon as she pushes each kitten out, the queen bites open the amniotic sac that surrounds them, licks their mouth and nose clear, and bites off the umbilical cord (4, 5). The queen eats the placentas and licks her kittens to clean them and stimulate them to breathe (4, 5). The time interval between kittens varies from ten minutes to an hour (4). Sometimes, labor may stop after one or more kittens, only to resume as much as 36 hours later to deliver the rest (4).

With the exception of some purebred cats, queens usually kit without a hitch. If you have a pregnant cat, though, make sure you know the phone number of both your veterinarian and the nearest emergency vet just in case. If you think anything seems wrong, call. Make sure you know ahead of time how many kittens to expect so you know if somebody hasn’t arrived yet. Get in touch with a vet if your queen has had contractions for more than an hour with no kitten arrival or if two hours have gone by without the next birth (8). If a kitten has been in the birth canal more than a minute or two, take your cat straight to the vet (8).

Myth #1: If you touch very young kittens, the mother cat will abandon them.

White mother cat and kittens
Image by StockSnap from Pixabay

Scent is very important to cats. There’s no doubt about that. And queens do occasionally abandon one or more kittens for a variety of reasons: the kittens may be sick, deformed, or unresponsive (3, 5). But if this is your cat and her kittens we’re talking about, there’s no need to worry about touching the kittens. Your own cat who is familiar with your scent has no reason to be alarmed at finding it on her offspring (3). It will not cause her to reject them (3). You can even move the kittens to a safer nesting site if you need to–although there’s no guarantee their mother won’t move them again somewhere she likes better (3). Try not to separate the queen and kittens for the first few days if you can help it, however (8).

Myth #2: If you spay a cat that has kittens, she’ll stop producing milk for them.

This is a common belief that sometimes causes problems for people. It makes perfect sense, but it isn’t true. A queen can go on feeding her kittens even after she’s been spayed. In fact, spayed she-cats that have never given birth will start producing milk if a kitten suckles them long enough (3). They can help surrogate orphan kittens this way (3). She-cats start going back into heat shortly after giving birth, so this misconception can be dangerous. People who think they need to leave their she-cat intact to feed her kittens may get stuck in a cycle of perpetual kitting. Nobody can find homes for that many unplanned kittens. This is a myth we really need to dispel.

Kittens

Neonate (0-2 Weeks)

Kittens are born with their eyes closed and their ears folded shut. They can barely wriggle; walking is certainly out of the question. They also can’t control their body temperature or eliminate waste on their own (1, 7). Newborn kittens rely on their mother for everything, not just food. She keeps them warm and clean, she stimulates them to urinate and defecate, and she defends them from any danger. For the first 4-5 days, neonates (from the Greek for “new” and Latin for “born”) will still have the remains of their umbilical cords attached (7). It will then fall off on its own (7). These tiny kittens weight on average 100 grams (5, 7). They can’t do much and sleep most of the time. They can purr and make distress calls, though, so they can communicate with the queen (1).

During the first week, kittens’ ears slowly start to open up (1, 7). Their eyes follow suit a couple days later (1, 7). All kittens are born with blue eyes. At the end of the first week, kittens will have doubled their birth weight (1, 5, 7). Over the course of the second week, their eyes and ears will finish opening, although their vision will take a while to reach its full potential (1, 7). Two-week-old kittens can walk a bit, but they are awfully wobbly (1, 7). Kittens this age will also start to hiss at unfamiliar scents or sounds (1). They can knead, but they cannot retract their claws yet (1).

Baby Tiger (3-5 Weeks)

A kitten’s first teeth, their incisors, come in at three weeks (1, 6, 7). They start to be able to eliminate on their own, and kittens in an indoor environment may experiment with the litter box (1, 7). They begin to be able to regulate their own body temperature as well (7). Kittens will start exploring and playing in earnest around this time (1, 6, 7).

A queen starts weaning her kittens when they are about four weeks old (5). In the wild, she also teaches them how to hunt (5). For pet cats, this is a good age to begin socializing kittens (1). Kittens at this age don’t have to be at their mother’s side every moment, so their people can start to spend some time getting them used to being handled. This is also the age when kittens’ fur coat fills out and things like markings and coat length become more apparent (1). At five weeks, a kitten’s eyesight is fully-developed, and the playtime starts to get wild (1).

Older Kitten (6-8 Weeks)

A six-week-old kitten has all of their baby teeth (7). This is typically the age when kittens are brought to the veterinarian for their first exam and vaccinations (1, 8). Kittens this age know how to clean themselves and will groom their littermates, too (1). At seven weeks, their adult eye color starts to develop (7). Some cats will keep their blue eyes, but most will change to another eye color.

At eight weeks, kittens are usually fully weaned (1, 6, 7). Kittens are sometimes adopted out at this age, as they are pretty independent from their mother. It is possible to spay/neuter kittens at eight weeks if they have reached two pounds (0.91 kg) (1, 7).

Watch Gourdon and Pepita grow up in 10 minutes! Not for those with misophonia.

Teenager (3-12 Months)

Although growth slows down a bit, a lot still has to happen before a kitten’s first year is over. They will shed their baby teeth and grow permanent ones (6). They’ll go through puberty around six months old and she-cats will have their first heat cycle (6). By that age, kittens are 80-90% of their final size (6). Teenage cats push boundaries and try new things, trying to get a sense of the world and their place in it (6). They’ll put on more muscle mass (6) and start to lose their kitten fluff. Kittens are quite fully mature at the end of their first year, but they’re almost there (6). A few more months and they’ll be all grown up (6).

Myth #3: Kittens must be six months old before they can be spayed/neutered.

It used to be the conventional wisdom that kittens needed to be six months old to be sterilized. Sometimes veterinarians may still recommend this. However, we now know that she-cats can have their first heat as early as four months old, and they can have kittens the first time they go into heat. In other words, it’s possible for a kitten to have kittens, which can lead to complications that a full-grown queen would not have. These days, it is becoming more common to instead recommend that a kitten be at least eight weeks old and at least two pounds (0.91 kg) to be sterilized (1, 6, 7). This prevents a lot more unwanted heat cycles and pregnancies.

Works Cited

  1. Alley Cat Allies. (n.d.). How old is that kitten? Kitten progression: At-a-glance. Alleycat.org. https://www.alleycat.org/resources/kitten-progression/
  2. Bukowski, J. A. and Aiello, S. (2011, July). Breeding and reproduction of cats. Merck Veterinary Manual. https://www.merckvetmanual.com/cat-owners/routine-care-and-breeding-of-cats/breeding-and-reproduction-of-cats
  3. E-staff. (2007, June 21). Mothering myths & truths. CatWatch. Retrieved from https://www.catwatchnewsletter.com/features/mothering-myths-truths/
  4. International Cat Care. (2018, July 31). Cat birth. https://icatcare.org/advice/cat-birth/
  5. International Cat Care. (2018, July 31). Cat pregnancy. https://icatcare.org/advice/cat-pregnancy/
  6. Moore, A. (2001). The kitten owner’s manual. Storey Publishing: North Adams, Massachusetts.
  7. Shaw, H. (n.d.). Determining a kitten’s age. Kitten Lady. http://www.kittenlady.org/age
  8. Stregowski, J. (2020, October 17). How to care for a pregnant cat. The Spruce Pets. https://www.thesprucepets.com/care-of-a-pregnant-cat-555417
  9. Syufy, F. (2019, October 22). Cat pregnancy stages. The Spruce Pets. https://www.thesprucepets.com/cat-pregnancy-stages-555411

Published March 21, 2021

Breed Profiles

Egyptian Mau: Cat of the Pharaohs

mehshadoweye

Meredith Hemphill

mehshadoweye

Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Bronze Egyptian Mau cat
Bronze Egyptian Mau – Image by liz west via Wikimedia Commons

The art of the ancient Egyptians frequently depicts cats, an animal which they considered sacred. The cats in their artwork bear a striking resemblance to a modern cat breed, the Egyptian Mau. Some believe that Egyptian Maus are actually the direct descendants of those ancient cats, a divine bloodline carried through the feral street cats of Cairo and into these pedigreed beauties. Maybe that’s true and maybe it isn’t. Egyptian Maus are special in their own right, and no cat needs to be told they deserve to be worshipped.

The male cat is Ra himself, and he is called by reason of the speech of the god Sa, who said concerning him, “He is like unto that which he hath made, thus his name became ‘Mau.'”

Egyptian Book of the Dead, 240 BCE

Along the River Nile?

According to legend, the history of the Egyptian Mau goes all the way back to ancient Egypt. Egyptian art and papyri dating as far back as 1550 BCE show similar spotted cats (9). The cats are shown assisting on duck hunts as well as in religious contexts (8, 9). However, we only know for sure that the Egyptian Mau was bred and shown in Europe in the early twentieth century (2, 4, 7, 8). Then World War II broke out, and cat fancy was one of the many things to be interrupted. Many breeding programs fell by the wayside during the war, and at its end very few Egyptian Maus remained (2, 4, 7, 8). The breed needed a hero, but not a knight in shining armor. They needed a princess to save them.

Princess Natalie Troubetskoy (or Trubetskaya) was living in exile in Rome (2, 4, 7, 8, 10). While there, she was given a silver, spotted female kitten (2). In one version of the story, the kitten came from a boy who had been keeping her in a shoebox (2). In another, the Egyptian ambassador to Italy gave her to Princess Natalie (2, 5). The princess named the kitten Baba (2, 8). She loved Baba’s unusual spotted coat. Princess Natalie bred Baba, and Baba had two kittens: a silver female, Liza, and a bronze male, Jojo, both spotted like their mother (1, 10). Princess Natalie immigrated to New York City in 1956 and brought the three cats with her (1, 2, 4, 8, 10). There, she established the Fatima Cattery to breed Egyptian Maus and wrote a breed standard (2, 4, 7, 10).

The Egyptian Mau was well-received, but early breeders faced a serious dilemma. The gene pool was miniscule. Inbreeding was inevitable, and the cats soon began to have problems. Diseases included cardiomyopathy and asthma cropped up (10). Aggressive and disagreeable temperaments were a pervasive problem as well (7, 10). The only solution was to bring more cats into the breeding program. During the 1980s and 90s, cats with a similar type were imported from Egypt and India, including the Delhi Zoo (4, 5, 8, 10). Although Egyptian Maus remain a less common breed, the gene pool is now much larger, and the problems that were pervasive in early breeding lines have largely disappeared (10).

How Egyptian is the Egyptian Mau?

Phylogenetic tree showing genetic relatedness of 24 cat breeds – Menotti-Raymond et al., 2008, Fig. 4

Genetic tools enable all kinds of interesting discoveries. Apparently I’m 0.4% Coptic Egyptian. But how Egyptian is the Egyptian Mau? The long-standing narrative assumes a direct line of descent from African wildcats to ancient Egyptian domestic cats to Egyptian Maus. Studies of the genetic variance between cat breeds and populations of non-pedigreed cats throws a monkey wrench into that story, however.

Genetic studies suggest significant European influences on the Egyptian Mau (4-6, 8). The waters are a bit muddy even here. Egyptian Maus were found to be more closely related to random-bred cats from Turkey and Tunisia than those from Egypt (5). A mitochondrial DNA analysis, which follows the maternal line, grouped Egyptian Maus with the Siamese, Russian Blue, Abyssinian, and Korat (5). Those breeds all have an Asian origin. Later studies using different methods have grouped the Egyptian Mau with Turkish Angoras and Turkish Vans (5, 6). A Turkish origin seems likely, based on the genetic evidence. As little is known about the breed before Princess Natalie revived it, pretty much anything is on the table.

Breed Characteristics

House Cheetahs

The thing that makes Egyptian Maus stand out is their spots. In fact, they are the only* naturally spotted breed of cat. This means that no one selectively bred them to try to engineer a spotted coat. They did it all on their own. Cat fanciers and cat people in general liked how their spotted coats resemble a wild cat. But these kitties aren’t hybrids like Savannahs and Bengals. They just look the part.

Their dark spots cover the body but can vary in shape and size (3, 10). They have “vest button” spots lining their pale undersides (1, 2). Egyptian Maus have a dark stripe running alone the length of their backs and tails (1). Their facial markings stand out as well. An M on their foreheads marks Egyptian Maus as a type of tabby, although you might not think of a spotted cat that way (1-4, 8). In this breed, that M is sometimes called “the mark of the scarab” because it allegedly resembles the pattern on the shell of the scarab beetle (3, 8). Egyptian Maus also have stripes resembling eyeliner running from the outer corner of each eye (1, 2, 4, 8). Their tails have dark stripes and tips (1, 4).

Only three colors of Egyptian Mau are accepted for showing: silver, bronze, and smoke. The silver has black markings on a light gray base. The bronze is thought to most closely resemble the cats of ancient Egypt, based upon the art they left behind (3). It has dark brown or black markings on a light brown base color. The smoke has solid black markings on a black smoke coat, where each hair is white with a black tip. The breed does come in a few other colors, including solids, but only as pets.

CFA Premier Shainefer’s Albion Argent, a silver Egyptian Mau – Image by Catbar via Wikimedia Commons

The Egyptian Mau is a medium-sized cat with a muscular yet graceful body. The hind legs are a little longer than the forelegs. Egyptian Maus have a flap of loose skin from their flanks to their hind knees which enables their back legs to stretch out farther when running (4, 7-10). Cheetah’s have a similar skin fold. This enables Egyptian Maus to be incredible runners and jumpers (4, 8-10).

Their heads strongly resemble ancient Egyptian depictions of cats. The shape is a rounded wedge with medium-to-large ears set well apart. The eyes are large, almond-shaped, and slant slightly upward. They are a characteristic gooseberry green color. Kittens can take a while to fully develop this eye color, and it sometimes becomes paler with age.

*The only recognized one, that is. There are others, such as the Bahraini Dilmun Cat, but they are not recognized by any cat fancy association.

Personality

Egyptian Maus are fiercely loyal cats. They bond strongly to their person or family. These cats are people-oriented and enjoy spending time with whoever they taken a shine to. They usually don’t like strangers and tend to hide around guests. Socialization at a young age is important to help them be as social as possible. If you adopt an adult Egyptian Mau, don’t be surprised if it takes a while for them to warm up to you. They just need extra patience. The wait will be worth it.

Egyptian Maus communicate quietly and charmingly. They typically use softer vocalizations like chirps and one all their own called a chortle. When pleased, they tread their feet. If excited, they “wiggle tail.” Incidentally, my Joon does this too, and it is truly bizarre. It looks like what cats do with their tails when they’re spraying, but without the spraying. I’m sort of relieved to know other cats do that, too. I digress.

The Egyptian Mau is an active breed. They enjoy games and puzzles, and some even like to play in water. Fetch tends to be a favorite. They can sometimes be possessive, including of their toys, so supervise an Egyptian Mau when they’re playing with a child or another animal until you know what to expect.

Egyptian Mau vs. Fish Toy

Caring for an Egyptian Mau

The Egyptian Mau is not known to have breed-specific health problems anymore. The addition of new, random-bred cats to the breeding population turned it into a very healthy breed. They don’t require extensive grooming, either, just the occasional brushing that any shorthair benefits from. As far as pedigreed cats go, Egyptian Maus are pretty low-maintenance, but there are some things to keep in mind.

While not hyperactive, these are athletic cats that will need plenty of places to climb. They may be good candidates for leash walking to work those long legs. Don’t forget that they are excellent jumpers, so they can probably reach heights that many cats couldn’t. Deprive them of a cat tree at your peril. They are excellent hunters, so playtime that mimics natural hunting behavior–and gets their favorite human involved–is a great way to give them some exercise, too.

Egyptian Maus get along pretty well with children, other cats, and dogs, as long as they are properly introduced. Remember, though, they aren’t fond of strangers, so new pets need to be introduced very carefully and slowly. An Egyptian Mau that wasn’t well-socialized to other animals as a kitten may not be able to cope at all. Proceed with caution. When it comes to small animals, proceed with even greater caution. The Egyptian Mau loves to hunt. Unfortunately, they see pet birds, rodents, etc. no differently than any other prey animal and might kill them (2, 8). If you have any pets that a cat might see as prey, make absolutely sure that your Egyptian Mau cannot get to them.

If you are considering an Egyptian Mau of your very own, try the CFA Egyptian Mau Breed Council Rescue or The Egyptian Mau Club‘s re-homing list. You can also check with your local shelters. Purebred go to the pound, too.

Fun Facts

  • The word “mau” comes from the Middle Egyptian “mjw,” meaning both “cat” and “sun.” (3, 6)
  • Egyptian Maus often don’t lose their baby teeth until their permanent teeth have already come in. This means, sometime between four and seven months old, they can have two full sets of teeth! (10)
  • The Egyptian Mau gestation period is longer than usual for cats. Most cats kit after about 63 days, but Egyptian Maus can have their kittens a week later with no problems. (4, 10)
  • The Egyptian Mau is the fastest breed of domestic cat. They can run at speeds up to 30 mph (48.3 kph)! (2, 4, 8)

Works Cited

  1. Alderton, D. (1992). Cats: The visual guide to more than 250 types of cats from around the world. Dorling Kindersley Limited: London.
  2. CatTime. (n.d.). Egyptian Mau. TotallyHer Media, LLC. https://cattime.com/cat-breeds/egyptian-mau-cats#/slide/1
  3. Edwards, A. (2006). The ultimate encyclopedia of cat, cat breeds, and cat care. Hermes House: London.
  4. Fawcett, K. (2016, June 24). 6 fast facts about Egyptian Mau cats. Mental Floss. https://www.mentalfloss.com/article/81610/6-fast-facts-about-egyptian-mau-cats
  5. Hartwell, S. (2013). Cat-breed DNA studies: True origins or legitimising impostors? Messybeast.com. http://messybeast.com/dna-studies-critique.htm
  6. Menotti-Raymond, M., David, V. A., Pflueger, S. M., Lindblad-Toh, K., et al. (2008). Patterns of molecular genetic variation among cat breeds. Genomics, 91(1), 1-11. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ygeno.2007.08.008
  7. Petfinder. (n.d.). Egyptian Mau. https://www.petfinder.com/cat-breeds/egyptian-mau/
  8. Syufy, F. (2019, September 22). Egyptian Mau: Cat breed profile. The Spruce Pets. https://www.thesprucepets.com/egyptian-mau-breed-profile-554215
  9. The Cat Fanciers’ Association. (n.d.). About the Egyptian Mau. CFA.org. https://cfa.org/egyptian-mau/
  10. The Egyptian Mau. (2002). CFA.org. https://cfa.org/egyptian-mau/egyptian-mau-article-2002/

Published March 14, 2021

Science

Feline Reproduction, Part I: Breeding Cycles and Mating

mehshadoweye

Meredith Hemphill

mehshadoweye

Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Cartoon of feline reproductive cycle
Image by Clker-Free-Vector-Images from Pixabay

When I was doing research for a previous article, I learned something that really shocked me. I read two papers about the reasons people gave for surrendering their cats and dogs to shelters. In both, the researchers included some basic pet knowledge questions in the surveys (7, 10). I was floored at how many of the study participants didn’t know the correct answers to some really fundamental questions about canine/feline reproduction and behavior. The surveys addressed a very specific population of people, obviously, but a very important one. If they had known those things before getting a pet, might that have prevented some of those cats and dogs from ending up in a shelter?

I am only one human, but I want to do my part by adding to the available educational resources. One of the knowledge deficits among cat owners surrendering their pets involved feline reproduction (7, 10), so I am going to do a two-part series on that selfsame topic. Throughout, I will bust some commonly-held myths about the feline circle of life.

Female Reproductive Cycle

She-cats, a.k.a. mollies, or queens if they’re mothers, reach sexual maturity at about six months old (2, 6, 8). However, they may hit puberty as early as four months or as late as eighteen (9). The sign that the time has come is that they go into their first estrus, or heat, cycle.

Estrus is a period of sexual readiness during which a she-cat will seek out and accept male cats. In nature, cats usually have a breeding season that is determined by the length of the daylight (5, 9). In the northern hemisphere, it lasts from about January to October (3, 5, 6, 8, 9). However, cats that live in consistently warm climates or indoors-only may experience the breeding season year-round (5, 6, 9). When in season, she-cats go into heat every 2-3 weeks unless they become pregnant (2, 9). Heat lasts an average of six days (6, 8). This pattern of multiple estrus cycles per breeding season is called seasonal polyestry.

So, how do you know if your cat is in heat? It’s unmistakable if you know what to expect, but can actually be pretty alarming if you don’t. She-cats in heat may roll around on the floor, rub up against things, become very affectionate, yowl, and urinate more or mark outside the litter box (2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 9, 12). The yowling of a she-cat in heat is loud, frequent, and unique. Unfamiliar owners often think their cat is ill or in pain. In truth, the crazy sound their cat is making is meant to attract toms from far and wide. She-cats in heat also assume a posture called lordosis, especially when their backs or hindquarters are touched. Lordosis involves lowering their front, raising their rear, treading their hind paws, and moving their tail to the side to indicate receptiveness for mating (9).

If you don’t know what heat looks and sounds like, this is a perfect example.

She-cats are able and willing to mate many times during an estrus cycle, often with multiple toms. Should they become pregnant, they may have kittens with different fathers in the same litter (3, 5, 6). She-cats are fertile from their very first heat and never experience menopause (2, 12). They can also have kittens more than once per breeding season. Basically, cats can have a lot of kittens over their lifetime. The Guinness Book of World Records lists the she-cat with the most kittens as Dusty, a cat from Texas whose last litter in 1952 put her at 420 kittens (12)!

Myth #1 – She-cats should have one heat/litter before being spayed

There is a fairly widespread belief that female cats–and dogs, too–are better off in some way if they have one estrus cycle or one litter in their lives (7, 10). Some people think that she-cats will be healthier if they have one heat or one litter before they are spayed (4). Others believe that she-cats who have kittens are friendlier (6). Neither of these things are true. The evidence shows that she-cats who are spayed before their first estrus are typically healthier (4). And while she-cats do have strong maternal instincts, having kittens does not change a cat’s overall personality (6).

Myth #2 – Cats should not be sterilized at all because it is unnatural/unhealthy.

As my mother always says, “Arsenic is natural.” Natural doesn’t necessarily mean good. Certainly, cats would not undergo surgery of any kind in the wild. Then again, if not for humans enabling their self-domestication, there would be no cats in the wild. I’m pretty sure one could argue what’s natural and what’s not here in circles ad infinitum. What should matter isn’t what’s the most natural but what’s the best for our cats.

In that regard, sterilization is not unhealthy. In fact, it can be quite the opposite. It prevents uterine infections as well as mammary and testicular cancers (1, 8).

Male Reproductive Cycle

Male cats, called toms, reach sexual maturity about the same time as she-cats (2, 13). However, at three months they are producing enough testosterone to start growing their penile spines (13). Yes, you read what you thought you read. Cats have spines on their penises. Quite a few mammals do, actually. There are several possible reasons why this bizarre trait evolved. We will get to why cats are thought to have them later on. The penile spines in cats are testosterone-dependent (9, 13). They finish growing when the tom reaches sexual maturity (9, 13). However, if he is neutered, the spines disappear (9).

Hissing ginger tabby cat
Image by Candid_Shots from Pixabay

The spines aren’t the only sign that a tom is all grown up. Toms begin exhibiting male sexual behavior at puberty, if not earlier. These behaviors include aggression toward other males/fighting, urine spraying to mark territory, and extensive roaming to look for mates (2, 13). Toms that are kept indoors may go to great lengths to escape, especially if there are no eligible she-cats in the household (1, 2). Unlike she-cats, toms don’t exhibit this behavior cyclically. Toms stay interested in mating year-round, although they exhibit decreased interest outside the breeding season if they are exposed to the environmental factors that regulate feline reproductive cycles (13).

Myth #3 – If I neuter my tomcat, he will feel like less of a man.

There is no evidence that cats feel any sexual identity or ego about their reproductive organs (1, 4). Toms do not exhibit an emotional reaction or go into crisis when neutered (4). Neutering does not change their personality (4). It does alter or eliminate the behaviors associate with reproduction, but that does not have a negative impact on a tom’s mental health.

Myth #4 – Sterilizing my cat will make him/her get fat and lazy.

This one came up quite a bit when I was Googling myths about cats to make sure I covered everything. I’ve heard this one before, too. I have to say I wasn’t super satisfied with the answers I saw on some of the other websites. They just said that overfeeding and lack of exercise are the culprits for weight gain, not sterilization. Here’s the thing. There’s a little grain of truth to this myth. Neutering/spaying a cat doesn’t make them fat and lazy, but it does decrease their activity level somewhat, especially for toms.

Cats of both sexes pursue mates. Toms range far and wide searching for she-cats in heat, and may break into or out of houses. That involves a lot of exercise. Once neutered, they have no need to do that. If they are receiving the same amount of food as before, they might gain weight and seem to be getting fat and lazy. The same could apply to she-cats, to a lesser extent. This isn’t to say that sterilization is bad, just that pet parents need to be vigilant about diet and exercise after the procedure.

How Kittens are Made

So Tom and Molly have found each other. Actually, several Toms may have found Molly. Up to six cats may follow a she-cat in heat, but eventually someone will approach her and see if she will accept his advance (13). If she finds him acceptable, she will assume the lordosis position. The tom then bites the scruff of her neck, mounts, mates, and dismounts (5, 8, 13). The whole process takes between 30 seconds and five minutes (8, 13). As the male dismounts, the female gives a yowl, called a copulatory call (8, 9). She then has an “after-reaction,” which frequently includes striking out at the tom, licking her genitals, and rolling around (9).

Two kittens in sexual play
Older male kittens sometimes try to practice mating behavior during play – Image from Veterian Key

No one knows for sure why she-cats often strike at toms after mating (5). It may be that the withdrawal of the male’s penis, covered with backward-facing spines, is painful, but there isn’t any definitive proof one way or the other (5). Those spines are necessary for conception, however. Cats are induced ovulators. This means that the females only release eggs for fertilization in response to a particular stimulus. For cats, that stimulus is mating. The penile spines of the tom stimulating the she-cat’s vagina is the signal for her body to release eggs (9, 12).

One pair of cats is likely to mate about six times within a couple hours before the she-cat declines him, and both may move one to another mate (8, 13). A study at the University of Minnesota found that 73.9% of she-cats who were bred an average of 5.6 times per estrus cycle became pregnant (9). Free-breeding cats are likely to mate many more times than that per heat (5).

Works Cited

  1. American Society for the Protection of Animals. (2017, February 16). Fact or fiction? Spay/neuter myths busted. ASPCA. https://www.aspca.org/news/fact-or-fiction-spayneuter-myths-busted
  2. Bond Vet. (2020, August 12). Cat reproduction: Heat cycles, pregnancies, and more. Bond Vet. https://bondvet.com/b/cat-reproduction
  3. Bukowski, J. A. and Aiello, S. (2011, July). Breeding and reproduction of cats. Merck Veterinary Manual. https://www.merckvetmanual.com/cat-owners/routine-care-and-breeding-of-cats/breeding-and-reproduction-of-cats
  4. Humane Society International. (n.d.). Why spay/neuter is important. https://www.hsi.org/news-media/why_spayneuter_important/
  5. International Cat Care. (2018, July 31). Cat pregnancy. https://icatcare.org/advice/cat-pregnancy/
  6. Llera, R. and Yuill, C. (n.d.). Estrous cycles in cats. VCA Hospitals. https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/estrus-cycles-in-cats
  7. New, J. C., Jr., Salman, M. D., King, M., Scarlett, J. M., et al. (2010). Characteristics of shelter-relinquished animals and their owners compared with animals and their owners in U.S. pet-owning households. Journal of Applied Animal Welfare Science, 3(3), 179-201. http://dx.doi.org/10.1207/S15327604JAWS0303_1
  8. Parrish, J. (n.d.). Reproduction in the canine and feline. Online Reproduction Courses Taught by John Parrish. http://www.ansci.wisc.edu/jjp1/ansci_repro/lec/lec_25_dog_cat/lec25out.htm
  9. Root Kustritz, M. V. (n.d.). Feline reproduction: An overview (proceedings). dvm360. https://www.dvm360.com/view/feline-reproduction-overview-proceedings
  10. Scarlett, J. M., Salman, M. D., New, J. G., Jr., and Kass, P. H. (1999). Reasons for relinquishment of companion animals in U.S. animal shelters: Selected health and personal issues. Journal of Applied Animal Welfare Science, 2(1). 41-57. doi: 10.1207/s15327604jaws0201_4
  11. Syufy, F. (2020, January 7). Guide to cat mating and reproduction. The Spruce Pets. https://www.thesprucepets.com/cat-mating-and-reproduction-555437
  12. Syufy, F. (2020, May 4). Do cats have menopause? The Spruce Pets. https://www.thesprucepets.com/do-cats-have-menopause-555438
  13. Veterian Key. (2016, December 22). Male feline sexual behavior. https://veteriankey.com/male-feline-sexual-behavior/

Published March 7, 2021