Month: November 2020

Behavior

How to Keep Your Cat out of the Christmas Tree

mehshadoweye

Meredith Hemphill

mehshadoweye

Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Tabby cat in Christmas tree
Photo by Jessica Lewis from Pexels

If you celebrate Christmas, there’s a good chance you put up some kind of Christmas tree. If you read this blog, there’s a good chance you have at least one cat or are thinking about getting one. So if you celebrate Christmas and read this blog, then you probably have reason to keep a cat out of a Christmas tree. Me too, my friend. The two cats we had growing up actually showed very little interest in the Christmas tree, except as a new thing to sleep under. But in recent years, I have lived with cats that had a lot more holiday cheer, shall we say.

So this article is for Sven, my roommate’s cat who thought a two-foot plastic tree would somehow stand up to 10+ pounds of tomcat flinging himself into its branches. And for Joon, whose teeth marks are forever left in my shiny foil Christmas present ornament. This will be her first Christmas in a house with a Christmas tree that’s actually large enough for a cat to climb, and I am panicking more than a little. But my research says all hope is not lost.

Choose Your Tree Wisely

I have never once had a live Christmas tree. I was probably eight years old before I found out that was a thing people did. Now I know that for many people, the live tree is a big part of their holiday tradition. And the first people to put up Christmas trees certainly weren’t using plastic ones, so tradition really is on your side if that’s your preference. However, live trees are much more attractive to cats than artificial ones.

Climbing is hardwired into the feline brain, and one of the most readily accessible climbing surfaces in nature is trees (1, 2, 3). In addition to climbing trees to hide, hunt, and survey their domain, cats also use trees to mark territory (1, 2). Marking can include rubbing and scratching or really quite unpleasant urine and fecal scent deposits. Artificial trees can look similar to real trees, but they don’t smell like them. Scent is very important to cats–hence the marking–so when you bring in a real, live tree, they know it’s a tree (2, 3). And their feline mind has very different ideas about what a tree in the living room is for than you do.

If it’s really important to you to have a live tree, it can be done, but it’s easier (and often safer) to have an artificial one. Whichever flavor of tree you choose, keep in mind that smaller trees are less likely to become kitty jungle gyms (2). Plus, if your cat does climb the tree and manage to knock it over, the smaller the tree is, the less likely your cat is to get injured in the fall (4). Slimmer trees also make less appealing targets, so consider a pencil tree if you’re going artificial or a live tree with a similar profile (5).

Location, Location, Location

Once you have your tree picked out, you need to set it up. Depending upon the tree, that can be an ordeal in itself, but with a cat extra care needs to be taken. First of all, make sure that you have a heavy-duty base to secure your tree with (1, 2, 4-6). The hope is that the cat won’t climb the tree at all, but you want to do your best to keep the tree from toppling if they do.

Next, look for a place where there would be plenty of open space around the tree: no furniture, cat trees, or other launching pads your cat might jump into the tree from (1, 2, 4-6). Ideally, the amount of empty space around the tree will be equal to the height of the tree (2). So a six foot tree would have a furniture-free zone extending six feet from it in all directions.

Of course, having that much free space around the tree isn’t always practical. Fortunately, you can work around the need for so much space in a number of ways. We’ll get to the more complicated ones later. The simplest ways are to 1) have a shorter and/or slimmer tree that doesn’t need such a big zone around it, or 2) put the tree in a corner (6). That completely eliminates two directions from which a cat could come flying. It’s also safer for your cat–and your decorations–because it eliminates two directions in which the tree could fall, too.

If your home is amenable to it, it’s a good idea to secure the Christmas tree to a wall or the ceiling. Screw an eyebolt into the wall or ceiling and tie the tree to it with clear fishing line. It’s a nearly invisible fix that might prevent a disaster. Just make sure your cat doesn’t get ahold of the fishing line and decide to eat it! (1-3, 5, 6)

If you really want to keep the cat out of the Christmas tree completely, you may want to put the tree in a room that you can close off and restrict the cat’s access to (1, 7). Before you decide to shove your beautiful, festive tree of holiday cheer into a back room somewhere, though, wait until we’ve gone over all the options. There are lots of tricks you can try yet.

Ornaments Hung by the Greenery with Care

Decorating the tree is one of my favorite Christmas traditions. I love the beauty of the ornaments and remembering the history of each one as we go through them. Unfortunately, to cats, ornaments look an awful lot like toys. To avoid broken ornaments and possibly trips to the vet, we have to be careful about how we decorate our trees.

You may want to start decorating the second you get the tree put up. I know I do. But hold off for a while. If you leave the tree bare for a few days, it gives your cat a chance to investigate it and hopefully get bored of it before you start hanging any tempting baubles (4).

Brown tabby cat swatting gold Christmas balls
Image by Myshun from Pixabay

When it is time to decorate, first things first: if you decorate with tinsel, don’t. This is one thing that is non-negotiable. I know, tinsel is shiny and awesome, but cats think so, too. And they respond to shiny, awesome things very differently than we do. Cats infamously like to eat tinsel, and when they do the tinsel can choke them or get caught in their digestive systems (2, 4-6, 8). These are life-threatening emergencies. The digestive blockages caused by tinsel usually require surgery to repair. So, no tinsel.

Garlands may also be a chewing hazard, but it depends upon what they’re made of. Food garlands might seem safe, but some human foods are toxic to cats, not to mention that they tempt your pets to get into the tree (6). Anything tinsel-like has the same risks as tinsel. Paper garlands can be a good idea (8). They aren’t very attractive to cats, and if kitty does nibble them, it’s no big deal. Wood also doesn’t grab a cat’s attention the way shiny things do (3, 5).

Now, for the main event–the ornaments. Perhaps the simplest thing to do is not decorate the bottom of the tree at all (2, 4-6). How much of the tree you leave plain is up to you and the reach of your cat. Pet Health Network suggests not decorating the bottom fifth (2). Alternatively, decorate only with unbreakable ornaments at the bottom–wood, plastic, felt, burlap, etc. (5). That may still be too tempting and get your cat too interested in the tree, though. You can always try and see how it goes, if you’re feeling brave.

It’s best to only decorate with unbreakable ornaments, really. They’re typically less shiny, so they don’t attract cats as much (3, 5). And those fragile glass ornaments, while beautiful and often sentimental, can be very dangerous for your cat if they break them (1, 6). They might ingest small pieces or cut themselves on the sharp, broken edges (1, 6). And even if no one gets hurt, who likes broken ornaments? No one, that’s who. But most of us have some fragile favorites that we like to see on the tree every year. So make sure to put them toward the very top of the tree and secure them well. In fact, secure all your ornaments well.

The more ornaments sway, the more enticing they will be (3). Metal ornament hooks can hurt your cat’s paws if swatted or stepped on, and they aren’t very secure anyway (4, 5). Instead of hooks, consider tying your ornaments to the branches with twist ties, wire, or twine (2-6, 8).

The Art of Deterrence

Now we get to the more creative approaches. If you just can’t keep your cat out of the Christmas tree in any of the above ways, try the following. Remember, however, that wherever you say “no,” you must also provide a “yes” (3). If the only climbing/scratching/perching surface in the living room is the Christmas tree, there may be no amount of deterrence that will keep your cat from trying to get into it. The Christmas tree is usually in a socially significant area of the house, so your cat will want to hang out in that area with you (3). Therefore, make sure that you have a tall, quality cat tree in the room with the Christmas tree as an appropriate alternative to the tree itself (3). Just don’t put it too close to the tree, or your cat will be tempted to jump between the two (3)!

Started from the Bottom

If your cat is climbing the Christmas tree from the base, there are several ways you can discourage them from this point of entry. Wrap the bottom of the tree trunk with aluminum foil (2, 4, 5). Cats usually don’t like the sensation or sound of foil. A circle of foil under the tree skirt may also work (4, 7).

The Christmas Tree Defender – Photo from company website

A more heavy-duty solution for the problem is the Christmas Tree Defender, a circular grate made of green plastic that clips around your tree. It can also be used for potted plants year-round. It is treated with a flame retardant, though, so it may not be suitable if you have a cat that likes to chew hard plastics.

Trees Are Not for Eating

Speaking of chewing, Christmas trees and their strings of lights can be tempting targets for chewers. Cats are known for investigating new and interesting things with their mouths, but when it comes to Christmas decorations, this is not just destructive but very dangerous. Pine needles are sharp and toxic to cats (3, 4, 6). Artificial needles can be dangerous if eaten, too, as plastic doesn’t really digest (1). Then there’s the lights. Some cats just can’t resist chewing on cords, but if they reach live wires within, burns on their mouths are a best-case scenario.

What to do? For the lights, apply a pet-safe bitter spray or cream to them before you string them on the tree (2, 3, 5, 6). If using a spray, it’s best to spray a cloth and then wipe the cords with the cloth (5). Make sure to wear gloves! If you have a pre-lit tree, this will obviously be a rather difficult endeavor. Just do your best and tuck away any dangling wires once you’ve coated them. You can also spray the whole tree with bitter spray, which works for cats that want to chew the branches (6).

Unplug the lights when not in use to minimize the chances that the wires will be live if the cat bites into them. It’s also a good idea to use a cord cover on the unlighted length between tree and wall socket so that the cat is unlikely to chew through to the wires at all (1, 3-6, 8).

Prevention is Scent-sational

There are certain smells that cats do not like. There are exceptions to almost every rule, but most likely your cat won’t be a fan of citrus, citronella, menthol, and apple cider vinegar (1, 3-5, 8). You can buy cat repellant, usually citrus-based sprays to spritz the Christmas tree with (1, 5), or you can use a variety of homemade solutions.

Cat behaviorist Jackson Galaxy suggests putting citrus zest, whatever kind strikes your fancy, into plastic bags, poking a few holes in the top, twisting them up, and hanging them inside the tree (3). He says that from a distance nobody will think anything of it (3). I trust Jackson Galaxy to the moon and back when it comes to cats, but I do wonder about his aesthetic sensibilities. You could maybe do the same with cheap plastic Christmas balls with holes poked in the top, but I haven’t tried it. I might, though, so watch this space. Other possibilities include:

  • Placing lemon or orange peels around the base of the tree (4, 8)
  • Including orange slices or strips of orange peel in the tree decorations (5)
  • Spray pinecones with apple cider vinegar and place them at the base of the tree (8); if using pinecones from outside, bake them in the oven at at low heat to kill any bugs first
  • Mix a little citronella oil into a spray bottle of water and spritz the tree with it (8)

Not-So-Holy Water

One of the big problems with cats and live trees is that cats want to drink the tree water. This isn’t just weird. It’s unsafe. The water may contain pine sap, fire retardants, pesticides, and fertilizers, all of which are toxic to your cat (1, 2, 5, 6, 8). Not adding anything to the water yourself, i.e. Aspirin, can prevent further toxicity, but it’s best to keep the cat out of it any way you can. Some tree stands include a cover for the water bowl, so if you can find a sturdy stand with a cat-proof cover, you’re in luck (1, 6)! But if not, aluminum foil or plastic wrap can be your friend here just like on the tree trunk (1, 2, 8). Netting or Sticky Paws for Plants, a kind of double-sided tape for deterring cats, are other good choices (6).

Creative cat-proof Christmas trees with Cole and Marmalade

Works Cited

  1. Jordan, E. (2019, October 17). How to cat-proof your Christmas tree (or at least try to). Pet Central. https://petcentral.chewy.com/holiday-safety-tips-pet-proofing-christmas-tree/
  2. Lee, J.A. (n.d.). Help! How do I keep my cat out of the Christmas tree? Pet Health Network. https://www.pethealthnetwork.com/cat-health/cat-behavior/help-how-do-i-keep-my-cat-out-christmas-tree
  3. Galaxy, J. (n.d.). The ugly truth about cats and Christmas trees. JacksonGalaxy.com. https://www.jacksongalaxy.com/blog/the-ugly-truth-about-cats-and-christmas-trees/
  4. PETA Living. (n.d.). How to cat-proof your Christmas tree. People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals. https://www.peta.org/living/animal-companions/how-to-cat-proof-your-christmas-tree/
  5. Nicholas, J. (2017, November 7). How to keep your cat out of the Christmas tree. Preventive Vet. https://www.preventivevet.com/cats/how-to-keep-your-cat-out-of-the-christmas-tree
  6. Johnson-Bennett, P. (n.d.). How to keep your cat away from the Christmas tree. Cat Behavior Associates. https://catbehaviorassociates.com/how-to-keep-your-cat-away-from-the-christmas-tree/
  7. Becker, M. (2012, December 17). How do I keep my cat out of the Christmas tree? VetStreet. http://www.vetstreet.com/dr-marty-becker/how-do-i-keep-my-cat-out-of-the-christmas-tree
  8. Kostelny, L. (2020, November 5). How to keep your cat out of your Christmas tree. Country Living. Retrieved from https://www.countryliving.com/life/kids-pets/g28916373/how-to-keep-cats-out-of-christmas-tree/#

Published November 29, 2020

Culture

Werecats, Part II: The Regal Werelion

mehshadoweye

Meredith Hemphill

mehshadoweye

Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Werelion statue
5000-year-old lion-woman statue – Image by Welcome to all and thank you for your visit ! ツ from Pixabay

This week we resume our tour of werecats by traveling to Africa, home of the werelion. There, in the cradle of humanity, cats big and small are exquisite predators. Sometimes the big cats take human prey, and this must only have been more so the case in the early days of human history. Is it any wonder, then, that some African folktales have fused two of the most fearsome beasts they knew: humans and lions?

On the one hand, the folklore of Bantu African cultures explains that sovereigns are transformed into lions after death [1, 2]. This suggests a kinship with lions. However Knappert points out that is also tells us lions commanded the respect and fear of those that lived alongside them, just like kings do of their subjects [1]. A lion that used to be a king in a former life is a sort of spiritual werelion, but there are stories of werelions with real transformative powers, and they tend to have less ambiguous personalities.

To this werelion, I do thee wed…

Sometimes, the belief is that humans use magic to take the form of a lion for various nefarious purposes [2, 3]. However, it can be the other way around [3]. In one story, a lion took the shape of a man, moved into a village, and married a human woman [3]. After a while they had a child [3]. So far, so good, if a little strange. Then the werelion suggested the family go visit his parents [3]. Yikes! None the wiser, his wife agreed, and the little family set off, accompanied by the wife’s brother [3].

As the sun began to set, they made camp, and the werelion built a protective shelter, or kraal, of thorn bushes before announcing his intention to fish and leaving. The brother was not impressed with his brother-in-law’s kraal and strengthened it himself. As you will surely be shocked to learn, the werelion brought his family to attack that night, but the lions couldn’t breach the kraal. The werelion’s family shamed him for his failure, and they left. [3]

Image by Andrea Bohl from Pixabay

The werelion came back in the morning with fish and plenty of excuses, but the brother was becoming suspicious. When the werelion left to fish again, the brother went on a walk to think. He found a gnome (akachekulu) who confirmed his suspicions and, in return for some housecleaning, taught the brother how to make a magic drum that would enable him to fly when he played it. The brother hid his sister and the baby inside the drum and began to play. It worked, but the noise attracted the werelion. Fortunately, it also compelled the werelion to dance, and the brother was able to fly everyone home to the village, where the werelion dared not try to hurt them. [3]

Werelion defeated by smart kid with feathers

Humans are human everywhere, so many elements of folklore are cross-cultural. The phenomenon of were-beasts is one example, but this story has lots: the rule of three (twice), rags to riches, advice from magical objects. It also reminds me a little of the German fairy tale Rumpelstiltskin, but this time the mother is not the one who breaks the pact.

The story begins during a severe famine, with a pregnant woman searching for something to eat in the wilderness. She finds a lion that has just killed an antelope and offers to trade her child for its kill. The lion agrees. [1] Perhaps it’s a gap in my understanding as a cultural outsider, but it seems as though it is never clear why, exactly, the lion would want the woman’s unborn child. If he wants to eat it, why not just keep the antelope, or kill the woman and have all of the above? To me, not knowing what he has in mind is actually more disturbing.

But perhaps the lion’s intentions are irrelevant. Cases of parents bartering their children for food were not unheard of [1]. I have no doubt that such a thing is not isolated in space or time, either. Starvation is a horrible thing that can make people do horrible things just to survive. The werelion may simply be a convenient stand-in for the sort of person who would be happy to buy a child.

35,000 – 40,000-year-old lion man sculpture from German cave – Wikimedia Commons

Well, the woman gave birth to a son and named him Mutipi. Mutipi grew two feathers on top of his head, but he was the only one that could see them. Eventually, the lion decided the time had come, so he changed into a man and came to the house to collect Mutipi. But Mutipi took out his feathers and asked them what to do. They told him that this was Mr. Lion come to take him away, and that he must change himself into a mouse so that when his mother called him in for dinner, he would not be recognized. And it worked. [1]

The werelion tried twice more, but each time Mutipi’s feathers told him how to escape capture using tricks or magic. Finally, the werelion took Mutipi’s mother instead, and Mutipi fled to another country. There, he became a favored messenger for the king. The courtiers grew envious and tried thrice to kill Mutipi, but again, his feathers told him how to avoid assassination. [1]

When drought and famine killed everyone in the country but Mutipi, for only he had magic, all-knowing feathers, the feathers told him to make a whip of lion-skin that would bring whoever he whips with it back to life. He chose not to resurrect his murderous enemies. He did resurrect the princess, married her, and became king himself. I am unclear on what happened to the last king. He just isn’t mentioned in the closing action of the story. Make of that what you will. [1]

Werelions, where are they now?

If you read the magnum opus that was my article on weretigers, you might be either disappointed or relieved that this installment in the series is so much shorter. Personally, I’m a little bit of both. I struggled to find reliable resources on this topic. Most sources just seemed to be repeating each other, and I wanted to provide better information than that. The result is a higher-quality but rather short article. If you do want to get more werelions in your life, here are some examples of werelions in modern media. We see werewolves quite frequently, especially in paranormal content in the United States, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen or read anything with a werelion. Let’s see what’s out there, why don’t we?

Books

  • Beast by Krishna Udayasankar – a werelion is wreaking havoc in Mumbai, and an unsuspecting cop is on its trail
  • Daughter of Lions by Catherine Banks – daughter of the leader of a werelion pride experiences teen angst
  • Magic Bites by Ilona Andrews – magic is dying and Atlanta is overrun with monsters, plus shapeshifters
  • And a truly shocking number of erotic novels…

Games

  • Fire Emblem: Path of Radiance and Fire Emblem: Radiant Dawn feature a people called the Laguz, one tribe of which can transform into big wildcats, including lions.
  • Dungeons and Dragons has an official race of lion-like people called Leonin.
  • World of Warcraft druids can take lion or panther forms.

Works Cited

  1. Knappert, J. (1977). Mutipi and the werelion (Ronga). In Bantu Myths and Other Tales (pp. 54- 58). E.J. Brill.
  2. Gouldsbury, C. and Sheane, H. (1911). The great plateau of northern Rhodesia: Being some impressions of the Tanganyika plateau (pp. 200). Edward Arnold. PDF
  3. Werner, A. (1933). Chapter XIII: Of werewolves, halfmen, gnomes, goblins, and other monsters. In Myths and legends of the Bantu. George G. Harrap and Co., Ltd. Accessed at https://www.sacred-texts.com/afr/mlb/mlb15.htm

Published November 22, 2020

Cat Care

Which human foods are toxic to cats?

mehshadoweye

Meredith Hemphill

mehshadoweye

Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Cat with cup of coffee and tin of nuts
Image by Mimzy from Pixabay

If you live in the United States, then Thanksgiving is coming up soon. If you live somewhere else, the winter holiday season is coming everywhere. Holidays often mean special food and family meals. While our pets may be family, that doesn’t mean they can eat all the same things we can. It’s never a good idea to feed pets from the table, but things happen. Scraps fall to the floor. Kids may not know any better. Some pets, my cat included, are incorrigible food thieves and will steal from any plate left unattended for a single second. Sometimes, it’s not a big deal. But there are certain human foods that are toxic to cats. Here are the ones to be extra careful about.

Fruits and Veggies

Alliums

Root vegetables in the genus Allium include onions, garlic, shallots, leeks, scallions, and chives. All are toxic to cats. They usually don’t pose a danger unless consumed in large amounts, but it’s always best to be safe. Alliums contain several chemicals, primarily n-propyl disulphide, which cause the hemoglobin in cats’ red blood cells to break down (1, 2). Affected cats become anemic, which can be very dangerous. There is no antidote, but there are effective treatments, so be sure to seek veterinary care for any suspected ingestion or worrying symptoms right away (1).

Toxicity is possible no matter what form the vegetable is in–cooked, raw, powdered, dehydrated, garlic bread, etc. Be particularly careful of adding broth to your cat’s food, which can be a good way to keep them hydrated as long as the broth doesn’t have any alliums in it (3).

Early symptoms of allium toxicity are usually gastrointestinal: nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, and abdominal pain. If anemia sets in, a day or two after ingestion cats will experience pale gums, lethargy, weakness, jaundice, rapid heartrate, rapid/labored breathing, and dark urine ranging from orange to brown in color (1, 4). These symptoms mean an immediate vet visit is in order.

Grapes

It is well-established that dogs can develop fatal kidney failure from eating even small amounts of grapes, raisins, currants, or sultanas. No one is quite sure why. It also remains unclear whether cats are also susceptible. The current advice is to keep grapes away from cats just in case. They are extremely toxic in dogs, and no one wants to find out the hard way that cats are, too. The toxic dose in dogs is highly variable (1), so if you realize your cat has eaten any amount of grapes or grape products, i.e. raisins, go ahead and take them to the vet right away.

Avocado

Avocadoes are actually poisonous to quite a few animals, including birds, rabbits, and horses in addition to cats and dogs (1, 5). The leaves, bark, seed, and fruit of avocadoes contain a natural fungicide called persin (1, 2). While some animals are very sensitive to persin, cats usually experience only gastrointestinal upset (2). However, not much is known about the particulars of avocado toxicity yet, such as the lethal dose, so it’s best to use a lot of caution (1). In other words, watch that bowl of guacamole carefully, or better yet, don’t put it out where the cat can get into it.

When avocado toxicity does lead to serious or even fatal symptoms–most commonly in birds–it does so by causing fluid accumulation in the chest (1). Respiratory and cardiac symptoms should be taken seriously under any circumstances. If your cat did get into the guac, though, be on the lookout for them. They could indicate unusually serious poisoning.

Brown kitten with apple
Not the seeds, please! – Image by Raissa Meres Rah Meres from Pixabay

Citrus

Citrus plants contain citric acid and essential oils in their stems, leaves, fruits, rinds, and seeds. These chemicals are toxic to cats (5, 6). Small amounts will only upset their stomachs, but a large ingestion can cause serious gastrointestinal distress and even central nervous system depression (5, 6). The fruit contains lower levels of the compounds than other parts of the plant, including the rind.

Coconut

The fresh meat and milk of coconuts contains oils that the feline digestive system doesn’t care for (5). Coconuts can give cats upset stomachs and diarrhea (5, 6). Small amounts may not give them any trouble, however, and it isn’t deadly by any means. Coconut water, on the other hand, can actually be dangerous. It contains high levels of potassium that are not safe for cats (5, 6).

Solanum

The genus Solanum, although part of the nightshade family, contains a lot of agriculturally important vegetables, including tomatoes and potatoes. But even these hold a dark secret. Green tomatoes and green, raw potatoes are poisonous to our cats (1, 2, 7). They contain a chemical called glycoalkaloid solanine which causes severe gastrointestinal symptoms when ingested (2).

Fortunately, glycoalkaloid solanine tastes bitter, as poisonous chemicals in nature usually do (2). Some cats won’t be deterred by this, however. We know this because cats have been poisoned by green tomatoes and potatoes (1). And I once had to pry my cat’s jaws open to get a pill out of her mouth that she was determined to chew up and consume. Those are pretty bitter, too, but that was not stopping her. Best to keep the ripening produce away from the cats, and be careful of any scraps. Especially if you’re making the time-honored Southern dish of fried green tomatoes.

Seeds and Pits

Speaking of scraps, there are several kinds of seeds and pits that can be poisonous even though the fruit itself is not. Apple seeds, apricot pits, cherry pits, and peach pits should all be carefully discarded where cats cannot get to them (7). On that note, it is important that any compost bins and trash cans where food is disposed of are cat-proof.

Beverages

Caffeine

All caffeinated beverages are toxic to cats. Caffeine itself is the culprit. Caffeine belongs to a class of chemicals called methylxanthines, which are toxic to pets (1, 4-6). Cats cannot handle nearly as much caffeine as humans can. A sip may not cause any problems, but too much caffeine can be very harmful or even fatal. Symptoms of caffeine poisoning in cats include hyperactivity, rapid heartrate, tremors, labored breathing, and seizures (3).

Alcohol

Cat looking out window at ice cream cone
Photo by Dids from Pexels

Alcohol is a part of the festivities for many people, but your cat should never participate. Cats are very sensitive to alcohol, and even tiny amounts can give them alcohol poisoning. If you suspect your cat has ingested any alcohol at all, treat it as an emergency. Alcohol poisoning can absolutely be fatal. The symptoms include lethargy, vomiting, diarrhea, labored breathing, lack of coordination, disorientation, tremors, and coma (1, 3-6).

To prevent poisoning, it’s important to prevent access. Open drinks should not be left sitting around. Of course, at a bustling family gathering or holiday party, this is easier said than done. If you don’t trust your guests to keep their glasses in hand or out of your cat’s reach, you may need to put the cat(s) up in a safe room for the duration of the event. Make sure to clean up any spills either way. Cats like to drink from puddles.

Milk

Milk and other dairy products are not toxic to cats, per se, but they can still make them sick. Adult cats are lactose intolerant and usually don’t handle dairy well. I already wrote an article about cats and milk. If you want to know more, you are welcome to read it. I see no need to reinvent the wheel.

Snacks and Scraps

Chocolate

Chocolate also contains methylxanthines: caffeine, which we already discussed, and theobromine (1, 6, 8). Theobromine is found naturally in cacao beans at a concentration of 1-2% (1). Different kinds of chocolate have varying amounts of theobromine. As a rule, the darker or less sweetened the chocolate, the more theobromine. Pets metabolize theobromine much slower than humans, so it doesn’t take much chocolate to lead to toxicity (1).

Symptoms of poisoning typically present in 6 to 12 hours of ingestion (1). They include vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, increased thirst, increased urination, rapid or abnormal heartrate, labored breathing, tremors, seizures, and a drop in blood pressure (1, 3-6). Heart attacks, heart failure, coma, and death can result in severe cases (1, 3). If you think your cat has eaten chocolate, of any kind, take them to the vet. Be sure to tell the vet what kind of chocolate you think they ate and how much, as well as how recently (8). That provides a ballpark for the quantity of methylxanthines consumed (8).

Salt

All animals need some amount of sodium to be healthy, but it’s always possible to get too much of a good thing. If your cat eats too many salty human snacks, or licks up a bunch of straight-up salt for whatever reason, they’ll have adverse effects. I even heard of this happening with a cat licking someone’s salt lamp, although that might be an urban legend. What’s certain is that cats are not designed to eat a whole bag of potato chips. If they manage to steal away with one or two, don’t panic. But don’t make a habit of feeding them salty things.

Dessert cups sitting on wood table
Photo by RODNAE Productions from Pexels

As a cat starts to get a little too much salt in the system, they start to exhibit increased thirst and urination (5). Their body is trying to flush out the excess salt. If it succeeds, that may be the end of it. More serious salt poisoning, however, can lead to vomiting, diarrhea, tremors, high body temperature, seizures, and maybe even death (5, 6).

Nuts

Salted nuts present a particular problem vis-à-vis the above, but even plain nuts can be of concern. They aren’t poisonous, exactly, but they contain lots of oils and fats that can cause vomiting and diarrhea (5, 6). The feline digestive system isn’t really equipped to digest nuggets of plant fats like that. Pets are also sometimes allergic to peanuts just like humans are, so peanuts and peanut products pose an additional risk (1).

Yeast Dough

Although baked bread is safe enough for cats, if not especially nutritious, raw dough containing yeast is very, very dangerous. There are two problems, both of which could be deadly on their own. Fermenting yeast produces carbon dioxide, which causes it to rise, and alcohol. When eaten, the alcohol can cause alcohol poisoning, as described earlier. But the expanding dough can cause a host of problems as well. It can cause the stomach to bloat, or worse yet to twist, which can be life-threatening (5, 6). It can also block the digestive tract and may even require surgery to remove (3). A small amount of raw dough can quickly become a very serious health risk. Take your cat to the vet immediately if you suspect they have consumed any at all.

Xylitol

Xylitol is an artificial sweetener. It is common in lots of products, including gum, candy, baked goods, and toothpaste. It is non-toxic to humans but very toxic to dogs, and it remains unknown whether it is toxic to cats (2). Currently, it is advised to err on the side of caution and assume it may be toxic to cats.

In dogs and some other species, xylitol tricks the body into releasing insulin even though no real sugar is present in the blood stream (1, 5). The large, unnecessary insulin release causes a severe drop in blood sugar and may lead to liver failure and death (1, 2, 5). The symptoms in dogs include vomiting, lethargy, weakness, loss of coordination, and seizures (1, 5, 6). To be on the safe side, check to make sure anything you plan to feed your cat does not contain xylitol, and take them to the vet if they happen to eat anything that does.

Bones

I suspect you already know that bones are not toxic. And cats are carnivores, so wouldn’t bones be part of their natural diet? Yes, cats do crunch up little tiny prey bones in the wild. But feral cats do not hunt turkeys.

The problem with giving your cat bones to gnaw on is that the bones in the kind of animals humans eat are often too big for cats to consume. So they may choke, break their teeth, or splinter off pieces of bone that then stab into their mouths or throats or–well, nowhere is good, is it? Never just throw your cat a bone. Or your dog, for that matter, because they can have the same problems. So no, bones aren’t toxic, but I included them because they can be dangerous and it would be an easy mistake to make.

Works Cited

  1. Kovalkovičová, N., Šutiaková, I., Pistl, J., and Šutiak, V. (2009). Some food toxic for pets. Interdisciplinary Toxicology, 2(3), 169-176. doi: 10.2478/v10102-009-0012-4
  2. Syufy, F. (2020, June 22). Human foods that are toxic cats. The Spruce Pets. https://www.thesprucepets.com/human-food-and-cats-551947
  3. Nicholas, J. (2017, November 20). 14 human foods you shouldn’t give to your cat. Preventive Vet. https://www.preventivevet.com/cats/human-foods-you-should-not-give-to-your-cat
  4. Hill’s Pet. (2019, October 30). Foods that are dangerous or toxic to cats. Hill’s Pet Nutrition, Inc. https://www.hillspet.com/cat-care/nutrition-feeding/toxic-foods-for-cats
  5. ASPCA Poison Control Center. (n.d.). People foods to avoid feeding your pets. https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/people-foods-avoid-feeding-your-pets
  6. Dowdy, S.M. (2020, August 24). 15 toxic human foods you should never feed your cat. Daily Paws. https://www.dailypaws.com/cats-kittens/nutrition/what-can-cats-eat/foods-toxic-to-cats
  7. Purina. (n.d.). Harmful substances and poisonous foods for cats. https://www.purina.co.uk/cats/health-and-nutrition/what-not-to-feed/harmful-foods-and-substances
  8. Falls Village Veterinary Hospital. (n.d.). 4 household foods toxic to dogs and cats. https://raleighncvet.com/illness-disease/4-foods-toxic-to-dogs-cats/
Breed Profiles

Havana Brown: Chocolate Delights

mehshadoweye

Meredith Hemphill

mehshadoweye

Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

Brown cat with green eyes
Havana Browns are a rare and exquisite breed – Photo by Dave Scelfo on Wikimedia Commons

The Havana Brown is a cat that cast quite a spell over a corner of the cat fancy, but it nearly went extinct in the late 20th century. Without careful maintenance, it still might, and these chocolate-coated beauties would be lost to future cat lovers.

History

Intercontinental Origins

Solid, or “self,” brown cats, while somewhat uncommon, have existed for a very, very long time. Images and descriptions of self-brown cats were included in the Tamra Maew, the Cat-Book Poems, which were written in Thailand as early as 1350 B.C. (1, 2). As a breed, however, they are a more recent development.

When the forebears of modern Siamese cats were first imported to England from Siam/Thailand, self-brown cats were included among them (2, 3). The Tamra Maew describes the Thai brown cats, named Suphalak or Thong Daeng, as copper-colored with eyes the color of pomegranates (1). The skin of Thai pomegranates is golden yellow, not red as in many other locales (1). There are records of self-brown cats being shown in English cats shows in the late 1800s (4, 5). We can imagine a cat rather like a Suphalak or a solid brown Siamese.

After a while, the self-brown cats fell out of favor. The Siamese Cat Club of Britain issued a statement in 1920, saying “the club much regrets it is unable to encourage the breeding of any but blue-eyed Siamese” (3, 4, 6). It’s thought that this caused the decline in self-brown cats. Fewer of them had blue eyes than the pointed Siamese, and those without blue eyes were excluded from shows and no longer bred (2-4, 6).

To the Brink and Back

In the 1950s, a group of British cat breeders set about to create self-brown cats and determine how the trait is inherited. There is some debate whether the first successful breeding was intentional or accidental (7), but the breeders kept meticulous records of all the matings and kittens in their programs, so we know what happened either way (6). Mrs. Munroe-Smith, owner of Elmtower Cattery, had a black Domestic Shorthair she-cat named Elmtower Susannah and a seal-point Siamese tom named Elmtower Tombee (6). Both carried the trait for chocolate fur, and when they mated–whether by human intention or not–they produced a self-brown tom kitten (2, 3, 6).

Elmtower Bronze Idol, born 1952, was the first Havana Brown to be registered, but more kittens soon followed (4-7). Although black Domestic Shorthairs and seal-point Siamese were the most common and successful contributors to the breed, chocolate-point Siamese and Russian Blues are part of their background as well (2-6). The very new breed was imported to the United States within a few years (2, 5, 6, 8). In England, Havana Browns continued to be bred back to Siamese, causing them to become less and less distinctly their own breed and eventually morph into a variety of Oriental Shorthair (3-6). In North America, the foundation type has been retained, and the Havana Brown remains a distinct breed (3-6).

Unfortunately, part of what has made that possible is a small gene pool. The Cat Fancier’s Association cut the Havana Brown off from outcrossing to other breeds in 1974, too soon according to many breeders (2, 4). Their fears were borne out as Havana Brown numbers and genetic diversity dwindled, and breeders struggled to keep the breed alive without damaging the health of the kittens they were breeding (2, 4).

Under pressure from breeders, in 1998 the Cat Fanciers’ Association opened up an out-crossing program that allows Havana Browns to be crossed to black or blue Domestic Shorthairs, most colors of Oriental Shorthair, and seal- or chocolate-point Siamese (2, 3, 9, 8). Kittens of a Havana Brown and an allowable out-cross are bred back to a Havana Brown, and the kittens thus produced can be registered as Havana Browns if they meet the standard (2, 3, 9). These efforts have so far helped bring the Havana Brown a few paces back from the brink of extinction, but they remain extremely rare, and there is still a significant risk of losing this breed for good (2).

Breed Characteristics

As I have made abundantly clear, Havana Browns are famous for their rich, brown coat. Their fur is short to medium in length, with a texture said to resemble mink (8, 9). Although all brown cats are referred to as “chocolate” in the cat fancy, Havana Browns tend toward more of a red-brown/mahogany hue (1, 2, 5, 8, 9). Brown coat color is a recessive genetic trait, which is why early breeders could only achieve brown cats when both parents carried an allele for brown coloration.

The Havana Brown’s eyes are vivid green. Although the Russian Blue is thought to have played a fairly minor role in creating the Havana Brown, it is interesting to note that while the Suphalak had amber eyes and the Siamese has blue eyes, the end result of the program has green.

Havana Browns are medium-sized cats with medium builds. They have a distinctive head shape, longer than it is wide. The muzzle appears a bit square. The shape is, amusingly, described as a “corn cob” stuck on the front of the cat’s otherwise rather triangular head (5, 7-9). I can see it, although I feel like that is not the most dignified thing one could say about a cat’s face.

A Havana Brown’s nose leather is rosy-brown, and their paw pads a.k.a toe beans are rose-toned (2, 3, 8, 9). The whiskers are also brown. In fact, the Havana Brown is the only breed wherein whisker color is part of the breed standard (3).

When it comes to personality, Havana Browns are a very kitten-ish bunch. They are playful, friendly, and people-oriented. While not a wildly active breed, they love their toys and playtime. They also love attention and spending time with their people. This is not a breed that does well spending a lot of time alone. They do, however, get along well with children and other pets. Sometimes they can be shy of strangers, though, so don’t rush the introductions.

While most cats scatter at the sound of a sudden crash, Havanas run toward the sound to see what caused it.

Richard C. Bilello, Havana Brown breeder

Havana Browns, like many breeds in the Siamese family, can be talkative, but they have much quieter voices than Siamese cats do (3, 8, 9). They also have an adorable habit of engaging the world with their paws. They investigate objects with their paws and even poke people or tap them on the shoulder to demand attention (2, 5, 8-10)! These intelligent and inquisitive cats are quite charming. Their need for attention and enthusiasm for, well, most things might be too much for some, but these cats are highly adaptable and do well with families.

Health and Home

One advantage of owning a Havana Brown is their low-maintenance coat, which needs very little grooming unless you intend to show them. They require no bathing and just need an occasional brush to remove dead hair, especially during shedding seasons. Fortunately, these cats are not heavy shedders (8, 9, 10).

Close-up of Havana cigars
Havana Brown cats may have been named after their resemblance to the brown of Cuban cigars – Image by jacqueline macou from Pixabay

Breeds that are rare and/or new have the least health information available, and the Havana Brown is a lot of the former and a little of the latter. As best as is known, it is a breed that experiences few health problems. They do seem to have a higher incidence of upper respiratory infections (3) and crystals in the urinary tract (10). Both of these conditions can be life-threatening if allowed to progress too far but are absolutely treatable. Always take your cat to the vet if they are showing any unusual symptoms. Cats hide their distress, so even a little change is worth asking the veterinarian about, just in case.

Havana Browns can be prone to overeating (4, 7). According to breeder Richard Bilello, “Havanas will eat all of their own food in seconds and then proceed to eat any other cat’s food if they can” (4). So you will probably need to control their portions and feed any other cats in the household separately.

If you would like a Havana Brown of your own, keep in mind that these are very, very rare cats. I will always say “adopt, don’t shop.” Of course, there are going to be few of these cats in shelters because there are few period. But even nearly-extinct purebred cats are sometimes surrendered, so always check if there is one up for adoption before buying from a breeder. The website https://havanabrown.rescueme.org/ showcases Havana Browns in need of forever homes in the United States. You can also visit their Facebook page for more listings.

Fun Facts

  • The Havana Brown got its name either from the Havana rabbit or the tobacco in Cuban cigars (5, 6). Both are similar in color to the cat’s fur.
  • This breed has gone by many names. Aside from those already mentioned: Swiss Mountain Cat, Chestnut Brown, Chestnut Foreign Shorthair, Havana (3-5, 7, 10).
  • In some places it is called simply the Havana because a lilac (pink-ish grey) version of the cat is accepted as well as chocolate (5, 10).
  • While North American breeders are trying to preserve the Havana Brown, the International Maew Boran Association is hard at work in Thailand trying to bring back the Suphalak (1).

Works Cited

  1. The International Maew Boran Association. (n.d.). Suphalak/Thong Daeng. http://www.timba.org/suphalak.html
  2. Petfinder. (n.d.). Havana. https://www.petfinder.com/cat-breeds/havana-brown/
  3. Cat Time. (n.d.). Havana Brown. TotallyHer Media, LLC. https://cattime.com/cat-breeds/havana-brown-cats#/slide/1
  4. Bilello, R.C. (1998). The Havana Brown: A brown delight and an endangered species. The Cat Fanciers’ Association. https://cfa.org/havana-brown/havana-brown-article-1998/
  5. The International Cat Association. (2018, August 13). Havana Brown. TICA.org. https://www.tica.org/nl/breeds/browse-all-breeds?view=article&id=842:havana-breed&catid=79
  6. Placchi, N. (1991, May). The cat in a not so plain brown wrapper. Cat Fancier’s Almanac, 8(5). As reproduced on the CFA Havana Brown Breed Council Website, http://www.havanabrowncfabc.com/History1.htm
  7. Hill’s Pet. (n.d.). Havana Brown cat: Information and personality traits. Hill’s Pet Nutrition, Inc. https://www.hillspet.com/cat-care/cat-breeds/havana-brown
  8. Cat Fanciers’ Association. (n.d.). About the Havana Brown. https://cfa.org/havana-brown/
  9. Cat Fanciers’ Association Havana Brown Breed Council. http://www.havanabrowncfabc.com/index.htm
  10. Houle, T. (n.d.). The Havana Brown. Pet Health Network. https://www.pethealthnetwork.com/cat-health/cat-breeds/havana-brown
Science

Coat Length and Texture Genetics

mehshadoweye

Meredith Hemphill

mehshadoweye

Encyclopaedia Felidae now has a Patreon! Go to www.patreon.com/EncyclopaediaFelidae if you want to help support this content!

By special request from Emma S.

I am back with the genetics! A friend asked me if I was going to address the genetics of cat fur length in addition to my previous blogs on coat genetics. I wasn’t sure there was enough information to fill up a whole blog, but I dove in anyway. It turns out, there’s plenty. It’s not just the difference between a longhair and a shorthair, but also hairless cats and sort-of-hairless cats and curly-haired cats. Cats are complicated. Genetics is complicated. That’s kind of the fun of it, though. So, this one is for you, Emma. Enjoy.

Longhair ginger tabby cat in autumn woods
Long hair is recessive to short hair – Photo by Steven Iodice from Pixabay

Shorthair vs. Longhair

Let’s start with the basics. If you need a refresher on the principles of genetics, look over the first few paragraphs of my coat color genetics post. Ready? Let’s go. The wild-type, or default, fur for cats is short with no texture modifications. Long hair is recessive to short hair [1-4]. This has been common wisdom for a while, but genetic studies confirmed it in 2007 [1, 2].

The researchers discovered four mutations in the same gene, Fibroblast Growth Factor 5 (FGF5), which cause cats to have long fur [1, 2]. FGF5 mutations were already known to cause hair-length variability in mice and dogs at the time the studies were conducted, so this was not a surprising result [1, 2]. In studies with mice, the FGF5 protein signaled hair to exit the growth phase and enter the static phase [2]. When mutations in FGF5 cause the protein to be nonfunctional, the growth phase of the hair lasts longer [2]. Hence, longer fur.

The four FGF5 mutations in long-haired cats were, creatively, named Mutation 1-4 [2, 3]. Mutation 1 seems to be exclusive to Ragdoll cats [2]. Mutation 2 was only found in Norwegian Forest Cats [1, 2]. Maine Coons are most likely to have Mutation 3, but Ragdolls might as well [1, 2]. Mutation 4 belongs to all long-haired breeds and random-bred longhairs [1, 2]. So far, there is not indication that any gene besides FGF5 contributes to the longhair phenotype. The fact that at least four mutations in this gene exist, three of them breed-specific, suggests that the trait has arisen multiple times through a similar mechanism. This is probably because, in certain environments, long fur is advantageous. It has also sometimes been artificially selected for.

Now, we know that there are not just two lengths of cat fur, one long and one short. There are many variations within both the shorthair and longhair categories, and some cats are kind of in-between. This is because very few things are affected by just one gene. An unknown number of modifier genes determine the exact length of a cat’s hair relative to their genotype at the primary hair length locus [4].

Hairless, or Near Enough

Some cats or breeds are more or less hairless. True hairlessness is almost unheard of. Hairless cats present with a variety of traits that we call “hairless.” Most have very thin coats that look as if they aren’t there at all. Some have fur that thins drastically in only certain places. In either case, the degree of “hairlessness” can vary widely. As one would expect with so much natural variation, more than one mutation causes the different patterns of feline hairlessness. Sometimes the trait is dominant, and sometimes it is recessive [3, 4].

Four cream Sphynx kittens on blue cat bed
The Sphynx trait is caused by the hr mutation – Image by mjlovesmm from Pixabay

A recessive mutation dubbed hr gives the easily-identifiable Sphynx its hairless phenotype [3, 4, 5]. The Sphynx is a typical hairless breed with an extremely thin, downy coat that gives the appearance of baldness [5]. The hr allele is a mutation in the Keratin 71 (KRT71) gene [5]. The keratin 71 protein is expressed in the inner root sheath of the hair follicle and is important for the normal formation of the hair [5]. The hr mutation does not prevent hair from forming, but the hairs are easily dislodged because the hair bulbs are weak, resulting in the distinctive naked appearance of the Sphynx [5].

The Russian hairless breeds, Peterbald and Donskoy, carry the semi-dominant Hp mutation [4, 6]. Other genes affect how strongly the Hp hairlessness allele is expressed [4, 6]. The cats’ coats range from a brush coat–sparse, rigid, curly fur–to hairless all over [4]. Hairless mutations identified in British and French cats, hd and h respectively, are recessive [3, 4]. Sadly, hd is also a lethal mutation [4].

The Lykoi breed displays partial hairlessness. They have a thin coat all over and a hairless face, sometimes with other patches of hairless, especially on the legs. Lykoi molt all of their hair at least once in their life and may molt as often as every shedding season. This arguably makes them a breed that is truly hairless, albeit only for short periods of time. Six different mutations have been found to cause the Lykoi phenotype, but all of them are mutant alleles of the same gene, lysine demethylase and nuclear receptor corepressor, abbreviated HR for “hairless” [7]. Mutations in HR also cause hair abnormalities in humans, mice, sheep, and macaques [7].

Rexoid Variations

Curly fur occurs naturally in quite a few mammals, including dogs, rabbits, and cats. There are five recognized breeds of curly-coated cats, per the Cat Fanciers’ Association and The International Cat Association: American Wirehair, Cornish Rex, Devon Rex, LaPerm, and Selkirk Rex. Several other potential rexoid breeds have been proposed, including the German Rex and Oregon Rex. While all of these cats–and some random-bred cats–have curly coats, there are a lot of different causal mutations.

Remember the KRT71 gene? One kind of mutation in it causes the Sphynx’s hairlessness, but a different KRT71 mutation makes the Devon Rex’s pelt curly [5]. The Devon Rex mutant allele, re, is recessive to the wild-type allele but also to the hr Sphynx allele [5]. Devon Rex cats were used in the early Sphynx breeding programs, so some Sphynx still have one hr and one re allele, but they look just like any other Sphynx [5].

Lilac cat with curly fur on wood table
Selkirk Rexes can have long or short hair – Image by athree23 from Pixabay

A recessive mutation also causes the Cornish Rex’s curly coat, but in their case the gene in question is lysophosphatidic acid receptor 6 (LPAR6) [8]. The mutant allele, known as r, causes the Cornish Rex to only develop an undercoat, one of the three layers of a normal pelt, and a curly one at that [8, 9]. Humans who are homozygous for LPAR6 mutations have a similar phenotype known as “wooly hair” [8]. Because the Cornish Rex was used to found the German Rex, r is in the genetic background of German Rexes, too [8].

Unlike the Devon and Cornish, the Selkirk Rex mutation, Se, is dominant, although incompletely dominant [9]. This means that cats homozygous for the mutation have a more dramatic phenotype: thinner coats, tighter curls [9]. And, wouldn’t you know it, Se is an unique mutation of our old friend, KRT71 [10]. Both KRT71 and LPAR6 are genes that maintain normal hair growth [5, 8]. It makes sense that different mutations in the same or similar genes would cause similar results.

Works Cited

  1. Drögemüller, C., Rüfenacht, S., Wichert, B., and Leeb, T. (2007). Mutations within the FGF5 gene are associated with hair length in cats. Animal Genetics, 38(3), 218-221. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2052.2007.01590.x
  2. Kehler, J.S., David, V.A., Schäffer, A.A., Bajema, K., et al. (2007). Four independent mutations in the feline Fibroblast Growth Factor 5 gene determine the long-haired phenotype in domestic cats. Journal of Heredity, 98(6), 555-566. https://doi.org/10.1093/jhered/esm072
  3. Basepaws. (2019, July 14). Cat coat genetics. Basepaws, Inc. https://www.basepaws.com/blog/cat-coat-genetics/
  4. Hartwell, S. (n.d.) Genetics of colour and conformation. MessyBeast. http://messybeast.com/cat-genetics-basics.htm
  5. Gandolfi, B., Outerbridge, C.A., Beresford, L.G., Myers, J.A., et al. (2010). The naked truth: Sphynx and Devon Rex cat breed mutations in KRT71. Mammalian Genome, 21, 509-515. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00335-010-9290-6
  6. Zhigachev, A.I., Vladimirova, M.V., and Katser, I. (2000). Phenotypic and genotypic characteristics of Russian hairless cats. Genetika, 36(4), 538-544. https://europepmc.org/article/med/10822817
  7. Buckley, R.M., Gandolfi, B., Creighton, E.K., Pyne, C.A., et al. (2020). Werewolf, there wolf: variants in Hairless associated with hypotrichia and roaning in the lykoi cat breed. Genes, 11(6), 682. https://doi.org/10.3390/genes11060682
  8. Gandolfi, B., Alhaddad, H., Affolter, V.K., Brockman, J., et al. (2013). To the root of the curl: A signature of a recent selective sweep identifies a mutation that defines the Cornish Rex cat breed. PloS One, 8(6), e67105. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0067105
  9. Basepaws. (2019, July 15). Curly cat coat: A special kind of eye candy. Basepaws, Inc. https://www.basepaws.com/blog/curly-cat-coat/
  10. Gandolfi, B., Alhaddad, H., Joslin, S.E.K., Khan, R., et al. (2013). A splice variant in KRT71 is associated with curly coat phenotype of Selkirk Rex cats. Scientific Reports 3, 2000. https://doi.org/10.1038/srep02000

Published November 1st, 2020

Updated June 14th, 2023